Brake Conversion
#1
Brake Conversion
Well, after finally getting all the parts, I started my RC51 front brake conversion last night. Got the SP2 Master cylinder and SP2 calipers ($110 shipped) and the Galfer SS lines ($77.56 shipped) along with the EBC HH pads ($56.76 shipped) plus around $6.00 for red caliper paint and about $7.00 for Dot 4 brake fluid. So around $257 for this change over. After painting the calipers red and allowing them to dry, I began the project last night. Removed the fairing (just to prevent any brake fluid splashing or spilling on it) and them removed all stock parts (MC, calipers, mounts, and lines..obviously). I then installed the SP2 MC, calipers, rounted the lines, attached the mounts ect... Everything went smoothly. Heck, even better than expected. But now the interesting part. I have yet to add any fluid (ran out of time last night). I realize this will probably be the toughest part of the project.
Couple of questions though. The lines I ordered do not have a bleeder at the Master cylinder. Is this a big deal? I read you should start the bleeding process at the MC but mine doesn't have a bleeder?
Anybody ever use the 'Magura Method'?
Couple of questions though. The lines I ordered do not have a bleeder at the Master cylinder. Is this a big deal? I read you should start the bleeding process at the MC but mine doesn't have a bleeder?
Anybody ever use the 'Magura Method'?
#3
Wrap teflon tape around the caliper nipple threads and use a mity-vac to pull the fluid through. You'll be done in 5 min. with this method. I use to never wrap the nipples (didn't listen to others advice) and was very surprised at how much of a leak this causes during the bleeding. Keep an eye on the reservoir as the mity-vac will drain it PDQ; especially the tiny clutch reservoir.
Yes, do the clutch while you have the fairing pulled and everything at hand. Pulling the clutch slave nipple to add tape to it while under pressure won't make much of mess, so don't worry about. Spray everything down with brake cleaner when done.
Yes, do the clutch while you have the fairing pulled and everything at hand. Pulling the clutch slave nipple to add tape to it while under pressure won't make much of mess, so don't worry about. Spray everything down with brake cleaner when done.
#4
EBC HH Pads
Well, after finally getting all the parts, I started my RC51 front brake conversion last night. Got the SP2 Master cylinder and SP2 calipers ($110 shipped) and the Galfer SS lines ($77.56 shipped) along with the EBC HH pads ($56.76 shipped) plus around $6.00 for red caliper paint and about $7.00 for Dot 4 brake fluid. So around $257 for this change over. After painting the calipers red and allowing them to dry, I began the project last night. Removed the fairing (just to prevent any brake fluid splashing or spilling on it) and them removed all stock parts (MC, calipers, mounts, and lines..obviously). I then installed the SP2 MC, calipers, rounted the lines, attached the mounts ect... Everything went smoothly. Heck, even better than expected. But now the interesting part. I have yet to add any fluid (ran out of time last night). I realize this will probably be the toughest part of the project.
Couple of questions though. The lines I ordered do not have a bleeder at the Master cylinder. Is this a big deal? I read you should start the bleeding process at the MC but mine doesn't have a bleeder?
Anybody ever use the 'Magura Method'?
Couple of questions though. The lines I ordered do not have a bleeder at the Master cylinder. Is this a big deal? I read you should start the bleeding process at the MC but mine doesn't have a bleeder?
Anybody ever use the 'Magura Method'?
#8
EBC HH Pads
Well, after finally getting all the parts, I started my RC51 front brake conversion last night. Got the SP2 Master cylinder and SP2 calipers ($110 shipped) and the Galfer SS lines ($77.56 shipped) along with the EBC HH pads ($56.76 shipped) plus around $6.00 for red caliper paint and about $7.00 for Dot 4 brake fluid. So around $257 for this change over. After painting the calipers red and allowing them to dry, I began the project last night. Removed the fairing (just to prevent any brake fluid splashing or spilling on it) and them removed all stock parts (MC, calipers, mounts, and lines..obviously). I then installed the SP2 MC, calipers, rounted the lines, attached the mounts ect... Everything went smoothly. Heck, even better than expected. But now the interesting part. I have yet to add any fluid (ran out of time last night). I realize this will probably be the toughest part of the project.
Couple of questions though. The lines I ordered do not have a bleeder at the Master cylinder. Is this a big deal? I read you should start the bleeding process at the MC but mine doesn't have a bleeder?
Anybody ever use the 'Magura Method'?
Couple of questions though. The lines I ordered do not have a bleeder at the Master cylinder. Is this a big deal? I read you should start the bleeding process at the MC but mine doesn't have a bleeder?
Anybody ever use the 'Magura Method'?
#9
Pads...
I got the pads from Ron Ayers ($24.88 per set plus $7.00 S&H = $56.76). Only problem is they take around 10 days to get. So if you don't mind waiting, it is a great price.
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