Anyone takes their Kickstand out for track days?
#1
Anyone takes their Kickstand out for track days?
Last time i went to the track, I started having issue with my kickstand the last 2 sessions of the day. There is one corner that is banked pretty good and has a bump in it. Everytime I went thu the corner my kickstand would gring along with the peg. I know that I could prevent that by leaning more out of the bike and stand the bike more up but I have been doing that. I was wondering if I take the kickstand out, would I need to bypass the safety switch and how??
Thanx
Thanx
#2
I don't have a wiring diagram handy or my bike to look at, but it's probably just a two-wire, open circuit switch. You put the kickstand down and it creates an open circuit. I had to bypass a similar switch on a Kawasaki because the switch would gunk up and not recognize that the sidestand was up.
To bypass the switch, find the wiring coupler where the switch patches into the wiring harness, disconnect the copuler, then run a jumper wire between the two wires coming from the wiring harness. Thus the circuit will be permanently closed. Make sure you leave no wiring exposed where it could ground on something. Or, you could do the permanent fix and just cut and splice the two wires coming from the wiring harness together with a butt coupler.
To bypass the switch, find the wiring coupler where the switch patches into the wiring harness, disconnect the copuler, then run a jumper wire between the two wires coming from the wiring harness. Thus the circuit will be permanently closed. Make sure you leave no wiring exposed where it could ground on something. Or, you could do the permanent fix and just cut and splice the two wires coming from the wiring harness together with a butt coupler.
#3
Are you dragging knee through that corner? If the answer is no then you're not hanging off enough. Also, more preload in front and/or rear will give you more ride height = more lean angle before parts drag.
#4
Shortly after the kickstand drags, the exhaust pipe/muffler on that side will drag as well. The footpegs and kick stand will 'flip up' quite a bit while dragging, preventing you from leveraging the rear wheel off the ground. The midpipe and muffler has no such movement allowance. Shortly after dragging the left side midpipe/muffler, you'll lift your rear wheel, and "lowside" as the rear end looses traction. (or worse, just loose it a bit, recover and highside! *OUCH*)
This isn't a concern for you with your high mount mufflers(posted that info for others), but the mid pipe to the left side can may still drag (check your clearance/angle with kickstand to determine). If removing the kickstand gives you oodles of room before the exhaust pipe hits, you're good to go, if not, you know you're gonna have to learn to hang off more.
I started dragging my pegs, so I went to rearsets that move the pegs back and up. Then I started dragging my sidestand, and the left side mid-pipe and leading edge of the muffler. I raised the rear ride hight, and switched to a different exhaust header (2-bro's) which helped a bit, but it still happens when I forget to hang off enough, or just get "lazy".
You can keep throwing $$$ and mods at the problem like I did, but I'd reccomend hanging off more/improving technique. It's cheaper! *lol*
This isn't a concern for you with your high mount mufflers(posted that info for others), but the mid pipe to the left side can may still drag (check your clearance/angle with kickstand to determine). If removing the kickstand gives you oodles of room before the exhaust pipe hits, you're good to go, if not, you know you're gonna have to learn to hang off more.
I started dragging my pegs, so I went to rearsets that move the pegs back and up. Then I started dragging my sidestand, and the left side mid-pipe and leading edge of the muffler. I raised the rear ride hight, and switched to a different exhaust header (2-bro's) which helped a bit, but it still happens when I forget to hang off enough, or just get "lazy".
You can keep throwing $$$ and mods at the problem like I did, but I'd reccomend hanging off more/improving technique. It's cheaper! *lol*
#5
Done both, with and without.
If you take it off just take the kickstand switch and move it around to the idle position. Take some black electrical tape and make several passes around it to keep the switch in place then zip tie the switch and wiring harness up out of the way.
Pretty simple to do.
If you take it off just take the kickstand switch and move it around to the idle position. Take some black electrical tape and make several passes around it to keep the switch in place then zip tie the switch and wiring harness up out of the way.
Pretty simple to do.
#6
Okay, I checked the manual. Permanent fix if you don't want to deal with it anymore: Remove the switch. Unplug it from the wiring harness under the seat. Run a jumper between the green and green/white wires.
#7
I am dragging my knee and almost my elbow. LOLOL. I think I need to add more preload but the sag is set to 25mm.
#8
Done both, with and without.
If you take it off just take the kickstand switch and move it around to the idle position. Take some black electrical tape and make several passes around it to keep the switch in place then zip tie the switch and wiring harness up out of the way.
Pretty simple to do.
If you take it off just take the kickstand switch and move it around to the idle position. Take some black electrical tape and make several passes around it to keep the switch in place then zip tie the switch and wiring harness up out of the way.
Pretty simple to do.
#11
Remove the lickstand and position the kick stand switch in the idle position, tape the switch so as it will not move and then zip tie just the switch up out of the way.
Kick stand will be off the bike at this point.
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