KCCO, not why they are different then a pinger, but how they are different then any other carber big bore thumper. i my 450 needed jetting changed fairly frequently. I just thought a carb was a carb and it needed to be jetted accordingly.

Insulin, yes. That was my question. Thank you.

 

Fisty, they really are not different from other 4strokes. You really should not have to rejet them unless needles wear out (they will break eventually) or the like. Or maybe gunk or clogs need cleaning.

Beyond that, you can buy a streetbike new and put 99k miles on it in all weather without even thinking of the carbs. They dont get out of adjustment or anything (baring large elevation changes)

 

.."my 450 needed jetting changed fairly frequently. I just thought a carb was a carb and it needed to be jetted accordingly."

Although New here, I'm going to have to disagree with the crowd....

One of the benefits AND drawbacks of running this bike is the fact that it is carbureted, and NOT fuel injected.

Fuel Injected motors can use a MULTITUDE of input variables to calculate the fuel maps, and cover a super wide variety of conditions.

Carbs, are subject to pressure (elevation and barometric). Density (goes hand-in-hand with pressure. Fuel quality (no EGT input), Temperature...etc.

These are minute differences, but they DO add up, and if you are like me, subtle differences ARE noticed by performance, and behavior.

Thus, if you set your carbs for typical weather, altitude and temperature, you will be ok.
Just my 2 cents.

 

Sunset, how is that disagreeing? Isn't that agreeing that carbs don't need constant fuddling?

Honda doesn't recognize any need for adjustment in the service manual do they?

 

Bottom line, the more you 'fine line' your ignition system, with different variables, from air intakes, fuel grades, timing, exhaust, etc...The more your carbs are going to be 'finicky'.

These motors seem to be very forgiving. Others may be more 'involved', and may require tweeking the carbs more often.

That's all I'm sayin'.

 

First off... I'm going to bash all of you one upside the head... NO, the bike does not need re-jetting all the time... Period...

Saying otherwise, puts you on the stupid list, pronto... Yeah, you might WANT to, if you go racing and want to eke that last but of performance, but then again, at that point you will need to put the bike on a dyno, with a full diagnostic as in wideband and so forth... Doing a re-jet for that purpose without that is plain stupid since you are down to minute changes that you really, really cant tell without the electronics... Sort of where smoking and Sunset is going, but to re-affirm... Swapping jets at that point, without looking at A/F and dyno read-outs, is a waste of time and effort...

It might need to be adjusted now and again though, for different temperature/humidity... But it should not require different jets really... Adjusting the mixture isn't re-jetting, and that should really be all that's needed... So, again... Adjusting, not re-jetting... Semantics, but important if you want to understand each other, really...

Once you figure out what main and pilot jets to suit your particular bike, that should stay the same year round, really... If it doesn't you have masked the jetting up with the needle position or mixture... Period... Get the jet's right, dial in needle height, and over the year, you will only need to set the mixture... That is, if you like most people ride from around +5c to +35c somewhere... If you go down to freezing or below regularly, and to extreme hot temps like in Arizona perhaps in the same season, then yeah, you need to adjust... But I doubt very many of you have all those temps in the same place/season really...

If you do need to re-jet... Which I will re-affirm, is unusual... Ie most of you will not need too... Then there is a simple solution... FlowCommander... It basically equals +/- 0.5 to 1 jet size... (Yeah, they claim more, but that's my real life evaluation) So basically, if you end up on the edge between two jets in spring/fall like me, it can compensate for that... And the minute adjustments you might want to, but not need too over the year... They are done with the twist of a screwdriver, without opening the carbs up...

 

Pocket Tuner

Can be purchased at Amazon

 

i have a large 2 stroke background i raced 50cc to 250cc
and it takes much longer to get the mixture just right but when it is
you don't change the jetting on it
only when its minus 10 degrees celsius you can tweak it a bit to get more punch

but normally i only mess with the mixture screws and on 2 stroke the air screw

 

Are you saying you don't have to change the jetting on the pingers As a comparison, or just the hawk?

 

Yes this was a comparison its not neccesary to change jetting on 2 or 4 stroke bikes , and even if your driving in (very) cold wheather..... remember the carbs on the hawk are heated by coolant so no worries there

 

I'm new to the hawk and I'm learning it is a constant, with a minor variation with fuel screws. Now I can't say for sure what kind of weather variations you have but I can say for sure, that 2 stroke jetting WILL need to be changed with season changes at the least. Well, at least over hear they will. With 90* summers and 20* winters there is no way the same jetting will work. Maybe if your winters are 50* and summers are 65*, well then maybe. Other then that then there's not really a chance. Unless you just didn't care about how it preformed.

 

Well... Then you really should define the difference in your question... adjusting the fuel screw is NOT "re-jetting"... Re-jetting involves changing jets, hence the name...

My advice, you are either not as spot on as you think with jets and needles, making the need for you to fiddle with mixture on weather changes... Or you are just more **** than me (no insult here, I'm way past normal myself)... At that point, get yourself a FlowCommander...

 

I agree. Fuel screw is not rejetting. I was saying that that, as you said earlier in this post, the hawk is a constant. But as road maniac stated with his extensive 2 stroke background, that 2 strokes not needing to be rejetted with season changes, is a fallacy. That is unless your riding in the basic same temp, alt. and conditions year round. Or you could care less about preformance or your motor. That goes for 2 or 4 strokes on the mx side. So comparing a pinger with the vtr in the jetting department is not in the same ball park. Actually it's not even in the same game. My original question was based on the hawk. All kinds or mx carbs I can get spot on with no effort. The hawk is a very different. As you already know. I'm going with mikes carb setup and will take it from there. Between you and him, if you guys can't get it, then I'm under the impression it can't be done without that "hole" somewhere and am not inclined to attemp it. I'm just trying to learn the hawk and how different it really is.

 

Would YOU give guy a foot massage?

 

*straight faced* **** you. (Continues walking down the hall)