After your carb is dialed in....
#6
A two stroke is just finicky by nature as there are no "valves" that open and close but holes in the cylinders to direct the flow of exhaust gases and fuel and only the exhaust to help pull that fuel out of the engine. Everything has to be absolutely perfect and so day to day with changing temps and humidity levels the carbs will need adjusted. The same can be said about any four stroke carbed race bike because they are fine tuned for the most power available and have a very small margin for the fuel air ratio to be correct.
Street bikes are tuned for reliability and ease of use so the fuel and air ratio doesn't have to be as exact so changes day to day in temps and humidity don't have the same effect on preformance.
Hopefully that was the question you were asking.
#7
KCCO, not why they are different then a pinger, but how they are different then any other carber big bore thumper. i my 450 needed jetting changed fairly frequently. I just thought a carb was a carb and it needed to be jetted accordingly.
Insulin, yes. That was my question. Thank you.
Insulin, yes. That was my question. Thank you.
#8
Fisty, they really are not different from other 4strokes. You really should not have to rejet them unless needles wear out (they will break eventually) or the like. Or maybe gunk or clogs need cleaning.
Beyond that, you can buy a streetbike new and put 99k miles on it in all weather without even thinking of the carbs. They dont get out of adjustment or anything (baring large elevation changes)
Beyond that, you can buy a streetbike new and put 99k miles on it in all weather without even thinking of the carbs. They dont get out of adjustment or anything (baring large elevation changes)
#9
.."my 450 needed jetting changed fairly frequently. I just thought a carb was a carb and it needed to be jetted accordingly."
Although New here, I'm going to have to disagree with the crowd....
One of the benefits AND drawbacks of running this bike is the fact that it is carbureted, and NOT fuel injected.
Fuel Injected motors can use a MULTITUDE of input variables to calculate the fuel maps, and cover a super wide variety of conditions.
Carbs, are subject to pressure (elevation and barometric). Density (goes hand-in-hand with pressure. Fuel quality (no EGT input), Temperature...etc.
These are minute differences, but they DO add up, and if you are like me, subtle differences ARE noticed by performance, and behavior.
Thus, if you set your carbs for typical weather, altitude and temperature, you will be ok.
Just my 2 cents.
Although New here, I'm going to have to disagree with the crowd....
One of the benefits AND drawbacks of running this bike is the fact that it is carbureted, and NOT fuel injected.
Fuel Injected motors can use a MULTITUDE of input variables to calculate the fuel maps, and cover a super wide variety of conditions.
Carbs, are subject to pressure (elevation and barometric). Density (goes hand-in-hand with pressure. Fuel quality (no EGT input), Temperature...etc.
These are minute differences, but they DO add up, and if you are like me, subtle differences ARE noticed by performance, and behavior.
Thus, if you set your carbs for typical weather, altitude and temperature, you will be ok.
Just my 2 cents.
#11
Well....Kinda, I guess...
Bottom line, the more you 'fine line' your ignition system, with different variables, from air intakes, fuel grades, timing, exhaust, etc...The more your carbs are going to be 'finicky'.
These motors seem to be very forgiving. Others may be more 'involved', and may require tweeking the carbs more often.
That's all I'm sayin'.
These motors seem to be very forgiving. Others may be more 'involved', and may require tweeking the carbs more often.
That's all I'm sayin'.
#12
First off... I'm going to bash all of you one upside the head... NO, the bike does not need re-jetting all the time... Period...
Saying otherwise, puts you on the stupid list, pronto... Yeah, you might WANT to, if you go racing and want to eke that last but of performance, but then again, at that point you will need to put the bike on a dyno, with a full diagnostic as in wideband and so forth... Doing a re-jet for that purpose without that is plain stupid since you are down to minute changes that you really, really cant tell without the electronics... Sort of where smoking and Sunset is going, but to re-affirm... Swapping jets at that point, without looking at A/F and dyno read-outs, is a waste of time and effort...
It might need to be adjusted now and again though, for different temperature/humidity... But it should not require different jets really... Adjusting the mixture isn't re-jetting, and that should really be all that's needed... So, again... Adjusting, not re-jetting... Semantics, but important if you want to understand each other, really...
Once you figure out what main and pilot jets to suit your particular bike, that should stay the same year round, really... If it doesn't you have masked the jetting up with the needle position or mixture... Period... Get the jet's right, dial in needle height, and over the year, you will only need to set the mixture... That is, if you like most people ride from around +5c to +35c somewhere... If you go down to freezing or below regularly, and to extreme hot temps like in Arizona perhaps in the same season, then yeah, you need to adjust... But I doubt very many of you have all those temps in the same place/season really...
If you do need to re-jet... Which I will re-affirm, is unusual... Ie most of you will not need too... Then there is a simple solution... FlowCommander... It basically equals +/- 0.5 to 1 jet size... (Yeah, they claim more, but that's my real life evaluation) So basically, if you end up on the edge between two jets in spring/fall like me, it can compensate for that... And the minute adjustments you might want to, but not need too over the year... They are done with the twist of a screwdriver, without opening the carbs up...
Saying otherwise, puts you on the stupid list, pronto... Yeah, you might WANT to, if you go racing and want to eke that last but of performance, but then again, at that point you will need to put the bike on a dyno, with a full diagnostic as in wideband and so forth... Doing a re-jet for that purpose without that is plain stupid since you are down to minute changes that you really, really cant tell without the electronics... Sort of where smoking and Sunset is going, but to re-affirm... Swapping jets at that point, without looking at A/F and dyno read-outs, is a waste of time and effort...
It might need to be adjusted now and again though, for different temperature/humidity... But it should not require different jets really... Adjusting the mixture isn't re-jetting, and that should really be all that's needed... So, again... Adjusting, not re-jetting... Semantics, but important if you want to understand each other, really...
Once you figure out what main and pilot jets to suit your particular bike, that should stay the same year round, really... If it doesn't you have masked the jetting up with the needle position or mixture... Period... Get the jet's right, dial in needle height, and over the year, you will only need to set the mixture... That is, if you like most people ride from around +5c to +35c somewhere... If you go down to freezing or below regularly, and to extreme hot temps like in Arizona perhaps in the same season, then yeah, you need to adjust... But I doubt very many of you have all those temps in the same place/season really...
If you do need to re-jet... Which I will re-affirm, is unusual... Ie most of you will not need too... Then there is a simple solution... FlowCommander... It basically equals +/- 0.5 to 1 jet size... (Yeah, they claim more, but that's my real life evaluation) So basically, if you end up on the edge between two jets in spring/fall like me, it can compensate for that... And the minute adjustments you might want to, but not need too over the year... They are done with the twist of a screwdriver, without opening the carbs up...
Last edited by Tweety; 09-15-2013 at 02:26 AM.
#13
Last edited by NorthFla; 09-15-2013 at 08:09 AM.
#14
i have a large 2 stroke background i raced 50cc to 250cc
and it takes much longer to get the mixture just right but when it is
you don't change the jetting on it
only when its minus 10 degrees celsius you can tweak it a bit to get more punch
but normally i only mess with the mixture screws and on 2 stroke the air screw
and it takes much longer to get the mixture just right but when it is
you don't change the jetting on it
only when its minus 10 degrees celsius you can tweak it a bit to get more punch
but normally i only mess with the mixture screws and on 2 stroke the air screw
#15
i have a large 2 stroke background i raced 50cc to 250cc
and it takes much longer to get the mixture just right but when it is
you don't change the jetting on it
only when its minus 10 degrees celsius you can tweak it a bit to get more punch
but normally i only mess with the mixture screws and on 2 stroke the air screw
and it takes much longer to get the mixture just right but when it is
you don't change the jetting on it
only when its minus 10 degrees celsius you can tweak it a bit to get more punch
but normally i only mess with the mixture screws and on 2 stroke the air screw
#16
Yes this was a comparison its not neccesary to change jetting on 2 or 4 stroke bikes , and even if your driving in (very) cold wheather..... remember the carbs on the hawk are heated by coolant so no worries there
#17
I'm new to the hawk and I'm learning it is a constant, with a minor variation with fuel screws. Now I can't say for sure what kind of weather variations you have but I can say for sure, that 2 stroke jetting WILL need to be changed with season changes at the least. Well, at least over hear they will. With 90* summers and 20* winters there is no way the same jetting will work. Maybe if your winters are 50* and summers are 65*, well then maybe. Other then that then there's not really a chance. Unless you just didn't care about how it preformed.
#18
I'm new to the hawk and I'm learning it is a constant, with a minor variation with fuel screws. Now I can't say for sure what kind of weather variations you have but I can say for sure, that 2 stroke jetting WILL need to be changed with season changes at the least. Well, at least over hear they will. With 90* summers and 20* winters there is no way the same jetting will work. Maybe if your winters are 50* and summers are 65*, well then maybe. Other then that then there's not really a chance. Unless you just didn't care about how it preformed.
My advice, you are either not as spot on as you think with jets and needles, making the need for you to fiddle with mixture on weather changes... Or you are just more **** than me (no insult here, I'm way past normal myself)... At that point, get yourself a FlowCommander...
#19
Well... Then you really should define the difference in your question... adjusting the fuel screw is NOT "re-jetting"... Re-jetting involves changing jets, hence the name...
My advice, you are either not as spot on as you think with jets and needles, making the need for you to fiddle with mixture on weather changes... Or you are just more **** than me (no insult here, I'm way past normal myself)... At that point, get yourself a FlowCommander...
My advice, you are either not as spot on as you think with jets and needles, making the need for you to fiddle with mixture on weather changes... Or you are just more **** than me (no insult here, I'm way past normal myself)... At that point, get yourself a FlowCommander...
#20
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01-27-2012 11:14 AM