General Discussion Anything SuperHawk Related

About fed up with this bike trying to kill me.

Old 09-02-2015, 05:23 PM
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About fed up with this bike trying to kill me.

Needing help. So here is what's going on the bike fires great with or with out the enricher. Gets to temp great. Idles great around 11k rpm. First through third the bike runs great. 4 through 6th though is where the issue kicks in between 3.8 to 4.5 k is where the issue resides. Sadly this is cruising speed rpms for my SH. It bogs down and will not accelerate and will die in most cases. Messed up at 85ish on a busy highway.

Back story I did an oil pan mod which added a skid plate to the bike to help with the lowering issue. I removed the 2 to 1 exhaust and that's when the problem started. I get a small popping during deceleration and can not feel an exhaust leak.

The problem is getting worse with the stalls. Here is a list of what I have done so far and everything has helped the bike run better but hasn't fixed the over all problem.

Carb clean (again)
Carb sync (again)
Pet **** \ carb examinination with no signs of wear to the seals.
Main tank and over flow off of the tank examined and they are clear.
Replaced both pet **** lines and the pet **** vacuum lines
Replaced the rectifier with one that works. Solved blinking low fuel light. Not mosfet yet but the rectifier now seems to be functioning properly (will mod soon).
Air filter is clean
Oil levels solid
0 leaks from fuel, cooling, vacuum or air intake
Checked the enricher at the carbs (plastic peices ) no cracks and the enricher is functioning properly. Will mod later.
Ran system cleaners and switched to 89 octane with no methonal.
No water in the tank.

I will be pulling the exhaust again tonight and resealing it up again. Will report on that again tomorrow.
No flickering or dimming of the lights.
Spark plugs are clean.

Any ideas would be helpful. The bike ran great before getting into the oil pan and doing that mod. Only thing I changed there was the addition of a skid plate and went with a slightly larger oil filter. Did that addition off of one of the threads I found here: which was a highly recommended filter. Had to mod the lower fwd fairing to accept the longer filter but that was a quick trim of a fairing and addition of a spacer which would do nothing to the performance of the bike.

Going to be pissed if it is an exhaust leak in combination with the 2 to 1 set up.

Last edited by Meier Link; 09-02-2015 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:58 PM
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You removed the 2-1 exhaust to go back to standard 2-1-2 ? What's your jetting right now ? What is this larger air filter you speak of ? Have you tried a choke test while riding ?

Without this info, it's very difficult to begin getting a feel for the bike.

As for your modded oil pan, I really don't see any correlation with your jetting problem.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:03 PM
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Yes I have done a choke test conditions still exsist.
Stayed with the 2 to 1 exhaust.
Jetting is stock
Air filter is oem
Sorry the filter that is larger is the oil filter not the air filter.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:16 PM
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Is your petcock connected to the back nipple, or, bottom nipple ? If it's at the bottom, it's wrong. If this was ok to begin with, lets move on.

Did the bike run fine with the 2-1 exhaust before removing it, or is this a new mod ? If this was already on the bike, perhaps you should read into this thread on 2-1 exhausts if you have not already done so. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...t-rejet-32256/

I don't know much about this mod, but do know jetting is different, and, you do loose power lower and mid, but gain on top IIRC.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:19 PM
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The mod was already done to the bike and it ran fine prior to removal and reinstalled them the same way they came off.

Vacuum line on the pet **** is connected to the rear not the down nipple. I've made that mistake before haha.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:28 PM
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I'm beginning to think this may be electrical problem. Perhaps R/R related. Have you modded it, or, had it been modded before by PO ? Bad rectifier can kill a battery. Perhaps checking the battery voltage while running the bike will help confirm or rule this out.

It's also late, and I'm running out of ideas. Hope someone else can chime in while we sleep on this one.

Also very difficult when the bike is not in front of you.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:34 PM
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Had a member on here send me a good r\r. The set up is still stock for now but the new unit tests good and still having the issue. As I stated in the OP I will be switching to a MOSFET unit soon but with a good unit this has my mind blown haha.

Trying to stay positive. I did change out connectors before changing the r/r. So I SD peace of mind the connection there is good.

The old unit was bad. Could it possibly be a bad cell in the battery caused by the old r/r failing? The battery is less then 4 months old.

Edit: I thought I posted this to technical discussion. Can a mod please move it to the appropriate forum?

Last edited by Meier Link; 09-02-2015 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Meier Link View Post
Edit: I thought I posted this to technical discussion. Can a mod please move it to the appropriate forum?
I think we are fine here in general... As it really is not a Tech discussion on ONE thing.... but a general discussion on a mired of things that may be worng as you work though diag.
Number one rule of Diagnosis, assum nothing, not a new out of the box part recently installed or a previously tested "good" part.
Rule number 2 skip nothing in the diag process...if it could be wrong, it gets tested before moving on.

As soon as you dismiss that new part, that tested last time part or connection...after chasing the issue for hours you will circle back around or another person will check and find the issue was right there all along in a part you skipped or assumed was good.

While you had the 2-1 exhaust off, did a rat or bird build a nest in the pipe?
Is that battery good after load testing?
Are the R/R connections still good electrically?
Make a list to check, take notes as you go.
Any new part gets tested after install.

Last edited by E.Marquez; 09-09-2015 at 05:15 AM.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:04 AM
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Do the carb slides put up the same resistance when pushed in and released?
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Hangfly View Post
Do the carb slides put up the same resistance when pushed in and released?
Yes they do and they slide smoothly.

"While you had the 2-1 exhaust off, did a rat or bird build a nest in the pipe?" No. I made sure to check them Prior to reinstalling them.

"Is that battery good after load testing?" Going to retest it tonight. Haven't done it yet since changing the r/r last night.

"Are the R/R connections still good electrically?" The old r/r fried the old connectors so I ended up cutting them off and crimping new ones on.

Last edited by Meier Link; 09-03-2015 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Meier Link View Post
Yes they do and they slide smoothly.
Besides a "feel" test.. blow air in the port at the top/side of the carb. Do this "test" after every time you put the slide and diaphragm back together.
Blowing air in the report should cause the slide to raise.. If not you did not get the diaphragm sealed in the carb top / cap correctly.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Hangfly View Post
Do the carb slides put up the same resistance when pushed in and released?
This post begs the question, what does "carb clean" mean?
How much did you ride the bike before digging into it? My point is that maybe the problem with the mid range power was there all along.
If this was my bike I would take it back to stock and start from there. Chasing around unknown mods is a waste of time at best.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Hangfly View Post
Do the carb slides put up the same resistance when pushed in and released?
This post begs the question, what does "carb clean" mean? If you pinched or otherwise put a tear in the slide diaphragms???
How much did you ride the bike before digging into it? My point is that maybe the problem with the mid range power was there all along.
If this was my bike I would take it back to stock and start from there. Chasing around unknown mods is a waste of time at best.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by xeris View Post
This post begs the question, what does "carb clean" mean?
How much did you ride the bike before digging into it? My point is that maybe the problem with the mid range power was there all along.
If this was my bike I would take it back to stock and start from there. Chasing around unknown mods is a waste of time at best.
Stripped then down to bare bones and cleaned in a parts washer. It's my daily commuter to work and back. So averaging 50 miles a day. Plus weekend rides for hours on end.

This problem started after pulling the 2 to 1 exhaust and oil pan. Put everything back on the way it came off except the oil filter which is 1/4 inch longer. Went for a ride and had mid range issues appear that were not there the day before.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Meier Link View Post
Stripped then down to bare bones and cleaned in a parts washer. It's my daily commuter to work and back. So averaging 50 miles a day. Plus weekend rides for hours on end.

This problem started after pulling the 2 to 1 exhaust and oil pan. Put everything back on the way it came off except the oil filter which is 1/4 inch longer. Went for a ride and had mid range issues appear that were not there the day before.
Points at the carbs as the source of the problem.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by xeris View Post
Points at the carbs as the source of the problem.
Or a HUGE air leak on exhaust, but it would likely need to be so large as to be impossible to not notice.. Still, check for exhaust leaks... then get back into the carbs
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:29 AM
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I planned on pulling the exhaust tonight and sealing them up (again) and will possibly dig into the carbs again tonight. I have a few other things I want to check before digging back into the carbs.

Will be tearing into the wiring harness that attaches the R/R. One things for certain; this bike is great at making me scratch my head and say WTF. I've built and worked on quite a few bikes and this one is surely a unique head ache. Will report back findings tonight.
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Old 09-03-2015, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Meier Link View Post
Idles great around 11k rpm.


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Old 09-03-2015, 03:57 PM
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Gwahahahahaa. Wow I didn't catch that typo. 1.1k for clarification. Thinking I just shot beer out of my nose. Think I will leave it to see who else catches it hahahahaha.
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:04 PM
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All good. Sounds like you are getting sound advice, just felt like pokin' a little fun.
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:34 PM
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If I can't laugh at myself then I deserve to be laughed at haha. It's all good man. Just working through some issues right now with the bike trying to trouble shoot. The auto parts stores here in town dont carry the right exhaust doughnuts. Even the bike shops. Going to make a temp seal out of gasket maker to get the bike to Tulsa tomorrow so I am close to an actual honda shop. Set it on the exhuast side and letting it rubberize. Front jug has a pretty serious leak. Bafflectomy (po) plus 2 to 1 makes it hard to hear anything out side of what's coming out of the exhaust. I know this an issue and might be what led to the problems. The old doughnut had a crack in it. Didn't think to look at it as I put it back together. Might not be the problem but definantly isn't part of the solotion.

Last edited by Meier Link; 09-03-2015 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:39 AM
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So after weeks of pulling parts off the bike I went ahead and pulled the petcock for a second time and took it apart and sure as hell enough the diaphram had ruptured.

I had just examined it not to long ago and it was fine (when the issues started with the bike) . Went ahead fixed her up with the k&l replacement parts and remounted it last night.

Took her out for a ride this morning and it's holding good at all rpms and in all gears. Going to resync the carbs and adjust fuel screws again tonight and hopefully kill these carb farts.

I am hoping this is the last of the issues for now. Got to love a 17 year old bike.

Last edited by Meier Link; 09-09-2015 at 04:42 AM.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Meier Link View Post
So after weeks of pulling parts off the bike I went ahead and pulled the petcock for a second time and took it apart and sure as hell enough the diaphram had ruptured.

I had just examined it not to long ago and it was fine (when the issues started with the bike) . Went ahead fixed her up with the k&l replacement parts and remounted it last night.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...84/#post390070

Happy to hear you finally found the problem

Enjoy the ride.... an older bike well cared for and sorted is a beautiful thing.
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