15/43 Sprockets & 520 Chain Source
08-04-2010, 04:37 PM
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15/43 Sprockets & 520 Chain Source
My '98 Hawk has 15/43 gearing and a 520 chain installed by a previous owner. I'll be ending my trackday season on 10/4/10 at Gingerman and I will be replacing chain/sprockets for the 2011 season. I'm looking for brand and source suggestions for the replacement. So, what do you recommend, from whom, and about what'll it cost?
08-05-2010, 04:45 PM
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My '98 Hawk has 15/43 gearing and a 520 chain installed by a previous owner. I'll be ending my trackday season on 10/4/10 at Gingerman and I will be replacing chain/sprockets for the 2011 season. I'm looking for brand and source suggestions for the replacement. So, what do you recommend, from whom, and about what'll it cost?
As for chains, I'm back to running D.I.D. chains right now. But as long as you stay with a high quality, name brand you should be fine. Just don't cheap out as the chain does take a bit of abuse on this bike. One last thought, I always run a riveted master link as I feel it is a safer and more robust than a clip on link.
Lastly I would suggest going with 16\43 gearing. IMHO the bike performs better and it allows use of 1st gear, if needed.
As to where to purchase the chain and sprockets, I will leave that decision up to you as i have no set place where i get mine from.
08-06-2010, 08:12 AM
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www.superbikesupply.com- out of n.carolina-(828)287-2101
brad sell combinations of chain and sprocket for a deal (170.00 and free shipping)
brad sell combinations of chain and sprocket for a deal (170.00 and free shipping)
Last edited by 1971allchaos; 08-06-2010 at 09:51 AM.
08-06-2010, 09:22 AM
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www.superbikesupply.com out of n.carolina- brad sell combinations of chain and sprocket for a real deal.. check it out and let me know
08-06-2010, 09:31 AM
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The JT 1303 sprocket will fit a Super Hawk. I believe it's a 520 sprocket for a 900RR, but it will fit a SH. I have one.
You can get it with 40-48 teeth. I think I got mine at Dennis Kirk.
I have 15/43 gearing and like it a bunch.
You can get it with 40-48 teeth. I think I got mine at Dennis Kirk.
I have 15/43 gearing and like it a bunch.
Last edited by killer5280; 08-06-2010 at 09:35 AM.
08-06-2010, 09:40 AM
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I think I'm going to stay 530 for the street, and go with 8541Hawk's suggestion of 16/43 gearing. I do a bit of highway riding and don't want to be revved out all the time. If I start going to the track a lot I'll get a 520/aluminum sprocket set up for the track 
08-06-2010, 09:53 AM
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I just got a set from www.sprocketcenter.com . I wanted an easy combo kit, and they cut your chain to fit. Not affiliated, just an idiot proof place to shop with decent prices.
08-08-2010, 02:42 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I checked out the recommended sites and found and additional possibility. What was nice about the site listed below is the VERY COMPLETE instructions on installing a chain & sprocket set. Regardless of what/where I buy I'll print these instructions before I begin.
http://www.sumofallparts.net/Product...FQhGnQodT1Na3Q
http://www.sumofallparts.net/Product...FQhGnQodT1Na3Q
08-10-2010, 11:15 AM
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What's this revved out stuff? Around 85 on the highway is 6K RPM with 15/43. It's not like I'm at 8 or 9K RPM.
From plenty of reading, around 6K is where a lot of folks say that they like to run.
YMMV
From plenty of reading, around 6K is where a lot of folks say that they like to run.
YMMV
08-10-2010, 11:57 AM
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Plenty of torque, no probs.
08-10-2010, 12:40 PM
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First, by running a smaller diameter counter shaft sprocket you increase chain wear.
Second, you make first gear all but unusable for anything but getting the bike rolling.
So while you hear claims of how much punch the bike has with a 15\43 set up, you can have about the same results with 16\43 gearing. The only thing you might need to do is downshift one gear. That and you do have a few other advantages by running 16\43.
First, you do get longer chain life.
Second, when running 16\43 you can still run a stock 102 link chain. What this does is move the rear axle to the front of the adjusters. This shortens the wheel base by approx. 5mm which give you better turn in.
Third, you can actually use first gear. It does take a bit of throttle control as it is a bit touchy. While some if not most of you guys don't ride on stuff tight enough to actually need first, it is quite nice to have if you do need it.
So for these reasons, I believe 15\43 is just too low a gearing for this bike. I have all the punch of that gearing by just using the gearbox a little more but can still cruse @ 5k on the freeway with no issues. Throw in better turn in and longer chain life and to me it really is a no brainer....
So IMHO 16\43 is a much better all around gearing for this bike.
08-11-2010, 04:44 AM
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Mike, as you always say, YMMV.
I did a second check this morning. 80 MPH with 15/43 is more like 5200 RPM.
MPG is around 30, whether going fast or slow.
Stock chain length, yep, still got it. 102 links.
My mileage has varied. I use first all the time, not just to get moving, but have used it in slow traffic, the gearing isn't as short as you think.
I'll concede on the chain life.
Either combination is excellent, I have ridden both on my bike. The kit I bought was 16/43. I rode it for a month or so before buying the 15T.
Like you say. YMMV. Maybe 16/44 is the magic compromise, we just haven't tried it yet.
I did a second check this morning. 80 MPH with 15/43 is more like 5200 RPM.
MPG is around 30, whether going fast or slow.
Stock chain length, yep, still got it. 102 links.
My mileage has varied. I use first all the time, not just to get moving, but have used it in slow traffic, the gearing isn't as short as you think.
I'll concede on the chain life.
Either combination is excellent, I have ridden both on my bike. The kit I bought was 16/43. I rode it for a month or so before buying the 15T.
Like you say. YMMV. Maybe 16/44 is the magic compromise, we just haven't tried it yet.
08-11-2010, 06:01 AM
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08-11-2010, 12:03 PM
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I think you totally missed the point here. With 16\43 & 102 link chain, the axle is as far forward as it can go in the swingarm. This shortens the wheel base and makes the bike turn quicker. Some may not want or like this but it is important to me. With 15\43 the wheel should be in the stock position so you don't gain this advantage.
I guess I am just trying to figure out why that low of gearing is so popular. So far I have not received any replies or information that states any benefit from it. I have stated, what I see, as the draw backs from running it. So if you can tell me what advantages can be had with the low gearing combination, I look forward to hearing them. The only thing I can see at this point, is more perceived punch, but like I stated earlier that really isn't true as with higher gearing you just need to downshift one.
08-11-2010, 01:30 PM
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Well, for me, I did it because 1st felt too tall stock. Lot's of hills in Seattle where I ride, and I try to avoid slipping the clutch any more than necessary. I'm able to get away from a light more easily/quickly/with less clutch should I need to with 15/43 vs. the 16/41 it had when I first got it. Haven't run 16/43 though, and would have to imagine it helps alleviate that too. I feel it just shifts the powerband into the range I'm more likely to use around town, as it is a streetbike for me and as my daily commuter, gets a lot of urban miles. I think a lot of people ride the SH as a daily ride in a lot of traffic, and I think for those riders, 15/43 makes great sense. I will say, I have been thinking about going up slightly on the gearing ever since I changed to a superbike bar a few weeks back though, as it keeps trying to lift or greatly unweight the front wheel when hard on the gas coming out of a corner, causing the bike to want to run wide. I'm having to use more body english to keep her pointed where I want it. I think I'm going to have to go back and adjust suspension for the rearward weight transfer; fork's now too stiff, and rear damping isn't quite right anymore.
08-11-2010, 02:00 PM
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I still don't see how going with that low of gearing is an advantage. I know it is a real popular set up and was wondering if I missed anything.
At this point, I have not heard any real reason for it. Anything that even remotely sounds like an advantage can be obtained with a little higher gearing and running one gear lower on the transmission.
I would like to hear some more on why that gearing is so popular but honestly I can't see anything to be gained by it.
At this point, I have not heard any real reason for it. Anything that even remotely sounds like an advantage can be obtained with a little higher gearing and running one gear lower on the transmission.
I would like to hear some more on why that gearing is so popular but honestly I can't see anything to be gained by it.
08-11-2010, 02:09 PM
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Well, maybe it's a spacing issue between 1st and 2nd that's exacerbated by the taller stock gearing, but 1st is SO tall with stock gearing. 15/43 really isn't that short. It doesn't feel any shorter in the first couple of gears than either my Bandit or the ZX-11. If I snap a wheelie up in 1st gear and hold it till near redline, I think that's near 50mph or so (I'm never watching the speedo, this is by feel). I mean, I know it's not an R1 with a 100mph first gear, but how tall does it need to be? 
08-12-2010, 05:15 AM
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Mike,
I don't know if there is an advantage. I'll admit to jumping on the bandwagon.
I do know that there is a "feel" difference between 16/43 and 15/43. I did run them back to back, but it was NOT a major feel difference.
I am not opposed to going back to 16/43, in fact, 2 of my favorite sweepers might benefit from 2nd being a little taller. The slightly shorter wheelbase is a benefit of converting back.
You pose a lot of good points, with matching questions.
I don't know if there is an advantage. I'll admit to jumping on the bandwagon.
I do know that there is a "feel" difference between 16/43 and 15/43. I did run them back to back, but it was NOT a major feel difference.
I am not opposed to going back to 16/43, in fact, 2 of my favorite sweepers might benefit from 2nd being a little taller. The slightly shorter wheelbase is a benefit of converting back.
You pose a lot of good points, with matching questions.
08-13-2010, 09:40 AM
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I just got a set from www.sprocketcenter.com . I wanted an easy combo kit, and they cut your chain to fit. Not affiliated, just an idiot proof place to shop with decent prices.
Just ordered a Sprocket/Chain set from there...very easy website to use, a lot of choices on complete kits. I chose the D.I.D X-chain/Stealth Tri-metal sprocket. http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/3703...t---honda.html
Very easy website to use and order from, I recommend it.
08-13-2010, 09:51 AM
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Jumping in on this to ask if anyone has had problems with uneven stretching using a 520 chain? Mine is uneven and I don't wheelie about. Granted I bought a cheap chain, Bikemaster O-ring .... is that the problem?
08-13-2010, 09:56 AM
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But you knew this, didn't you? ...
08-13-2010, 10:05 AM
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Thanks!
08-13-2010, 12:04 PM
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Now for rear sprockets, you have a choice, Long life or light weight.
For the lightest weight, run an Al rear sprocket. From my experience, AFAM makes the best AL rear sprocket and I have gotten 15-18K mikes from this set up (but you do have to maintain your chain to get this mileage) the very worst rear I've used is a Vortex. It wore out in 4K miles
with the exact same maintenance I used to get over 15K out of the AFAM. There are some others Ive tried that work well but the AFAMs have worked the best for me. Longest life would be a steel rear. JT makes one and I have tried it but really can't tell you how long it lasts as I changed it before I wore it out. It is pretty heavy and I would also say a pretty loud sprocet, as it always made a bit of noise no matter how clean.
There is an "In between" set up called a Stealth sprocket with uses an AL center with a steel gear ring attached. It looks like a pretty good trade off but I have never used one.
08-13-2010, 12:28 PM
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From what I've experienced running a 520 set up is this. You need to buy a good chain (I've been running RK but lately have been using a D.I.D. chain and both work very well) and also look for the one with the highest tensile strength rating or you're just going to wear it out right away.
Now for rear sprockets, you have a choice, Long life or light weight.
For the lightest weight, run an Al rear sprocket. From my experience, AFAM makes the best AL rear sprocket and I have gotten 15-18K mikes from this set up (but you do have to maintain your chain to get this mileage) the very worst rear I've used is a Vortex. It wore out in 4K miles with the exact same maintenance I used to get over 15K out of the AFAM. There are some others Ive tried that work well but the AFAMs have worked the best for me.
Longest life would be a steel rear. JT makes one and I have tried it but really can't tell you how long it lasts as I changed it before I wore it out. It is pretty heavy and I would also say a pretty loud sprocet, as it always made a bit of noise no matter how clean.
There is an "In between" set up called a Stealth sprocket with uses an AL center with a steel gear ring attached. It looks like a pretty good trade off but I have never used one.
Now for rear sprockets, you have a choice, Long life or light weight.
For the lightest weight, run an Al rear sprocket. From my experience, AFAM makes the best AL rear sprocket and I have gotten 15-18K mikes from this set up (but you do have to maintain your chain to get this mileage) the very worst rear I've used is a Vortex. It wore out in 4K miles
with the exact same maintenance I used to get over 15K out of the AFAM. There are some others Ive tried that work well but the AFAMs have worked the best for me. Longest life would be a steel rear. JT makes one and I have tried it but really can't tell you how long it lasts as I changed it before I wore it out. It is pretty heavy and I would also say a pretty loud sprocet, as it always made a bit of noise no matter how clean.
There is an "In between" set up called a Stealth sprocket with uses an AL center with a steel gear ring attached. It looks like a pretty good trade off but I have never used one.
08-13-2010, 01:40 PM
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Mike,
I don't know if there is an advantage. I'll admit to jumping on the bandwagon.
I do know that there is a "feel" difference between 16/43 and 15/43. I did run them back to back, but it was NOT a major feel difference.
I am not opposed to going back to 16/43, in fact, 2 of my favorite sweepers might benefit from 2nd being a little taller. The slightly shorter wheelbase is a benefit of converting back.
You pose a lot of good points, with matching questions.
I don't know if there is an advantage. I'll admit to jumping on the bandwagon.
I do know that there is a "feel" difference between 16/43 and 15/43. I did run them back to back, but it was NOT a major feel difference.
I am not opposed to going back to 16/43, in fact, 2 of my favorite sweepers might benefit from 2nd being a little taller. The slightly shorter wheelbase is a benefit of converting back.
You pose a lot of good points, with matching questions.
Even though I am a crusty old bastard, I'm really not trying to give anyone a hard time about all this.
I did see on one of the e-bay ads a statement in one ad that 15\43 was figured to be the optimal gear for a SH. I didn't see it that way and was wondering if there was something I missed.
The best way to figure it out was to have this discussion with someone who have been running it.
So far I don't see an advantage from running a lower gearing. I my case, I don't agree with 1st being too tall and the power band thing is also a matter of opinion.
Living in the Bay area, I am also pretty familiar with hills.
What I didn't like about the stock gearing was the big step between 1st & 2nd. It also has to do with how I ride and also the roads I tend to ride on. I tend to ride at a bit higher RPM than some. For just normal cursing around, I tend to shift at 5K and keep it between 4-6K. When out "Having Fun" or whatever then I run between 6-9K. For me, that is where the power is.
So on the roads that I ride on, which tend to be what is referred to as "Goat Roads" in the Santa Cruz Mtns or over Mt. Hamilton this lead to a problem. With the stock gearing, you would often find yourself (well in theory, as I would never break the speed limit on a public road
) in places where you were either really starting to rev it out in 1st or bogging in 2nd.I don't like to run above 6K in 1st as first, throttle control is a bitch..... with a motor that has been tuned a bit,even more so and even then you often run out of gear before you even get the bike stood up. The shift from 1st to 2nd at those RPMs is a bitch also and you really don't want to try it while leaned over.
With the 43T rear it raises the RPM just enough that you can stay in 2nd for most stuff and still have plenty of drive coming out of a corner. When you do drop the RPMs it does make the power come on just a little softer, which make throttle control on corner exit even easier. Which are all good things from me, as this is a street set up.
So for me gearing lower just doesn't make too much sense. Then again, it might work well for someone else, it does depend on how and where you ride.
Now if you do some motor work things change. The more you do, the higher you gear. Buy the time you have a STG 1 motor, you're back to 16\41, by the way I run them.
Sorry to be so long winded but just wanted to be clear. Also don't be afraid to play with the gearing to see what works best for you.
Last edited by 8541Hawk; 08-17-2010 at 09:06 PM.
08-13-2010, 01:42 PM
#29
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I haven't run them but haven't heard anything bad either. Just get a good one (which will be one of the most expensive but it is worth the cost now as it will last much longer) and you should be fine.
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