HRC Style Rear Brake Reservoir Deletes - $15 Shipped
04-09-2015, 07:39 PM
#1
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HRC Style Rear Brake Reservoir Deletes - $15 Shipped
I've been able to gather enough parts to offer these again. They really are a great addition to our Superhawks. I've searched through many options for our bikes, including going so far as buying a CRF master cylinder and trying to retrofit it, but it will not fit our rear brake setup.
This kit is better than the HRC kit in my opinion. Here is why: The HRC kit uses the green tubing, which "breathes" and ends up getting soaked on the outside with brake fluid (check the CBR forums for the many stories). The CBR guys are upgrading to TYGON 2375 tubing, which is what I used. The HRC kit also uses ugly worm drive hose clamps. I used stainless Oetigger clamps, which are fuel injection rated, and look much cleaner. The plug I am using is a genuine HRC part, in the original HRC bag.
The last kits I had used a bigger ID tubing, which fit fine, but in my opinion these fit much better. I got smaller diameter tubing this time, and it is super tight when fitting it over the nipple on the master cylinder. The clamps aren't even really needed, but I use them "just in case".
The clamps are tightened using a poly crimper found at Home Depot (I use a German Knipex pair). They look super sano, like the factory would have done.
The kits will be shipped via USPS in a bubble mailer. I can assure you will be satisifed with them, as I am. These are the exact same kits I have on my bike now. If I didn't like it, I would remove it.
This allows you to remove the stock bulky reservoir mounted on the side of battery box, along with the big reservoir hose.
Don't worry about there being less fluid in the reservoir. When you press the back brake pedal the fluid barely moves, as the rear brake's piston is pretty small.
I have ten of these available, and will do my best to ship pretty quick. I'm doing this because of my love for the Superhawk, and my neverending quest to make them better both functionally, and cosmetically.
Edit: The setup is super flexible, so if you hit it with your boot it will not hurt it.
Edit 2: Last time these were $12 shipped, the material cost went up a bit this time, so these are now $15 shipped. Sorry about that.
Preferred payment method is paypal. You can send payment, with a good shipping address to: thedeatons at g m a i l . c o m.
James
This kit is better than the HRC kit in my opinion. Here is why: The HRC kit uses the green tubing, which "breathes" and ends up getting soaked on the outside with brake fluid (check the CBR forums for the many stories). The CBR guys are upgrading to TYGON 2375 tubing, which is what I used. The HRC kit also uses ugly worm drive hose clamps. I used stainless Oetigger clamps, which are fuel injection rated, and look much cleaner. The plug I am using is a genuine HRC part, in the original HRC bag.
The last kits I had used a bigger ID tubing, which fit fine, but in my opinion these fit much better. I got smaller diameter tubing this time, and it is super tight when fitting it over the nipple on the master cylinder. The clamps aren't even really needed, but I use them "just in case".
The clamps are tightened using a poly crimper found at Home Depot (I use a German Knipex pair). They look super sano, like the factory would have done.
The kits will be shipped via USPS in a bubble mailer. I can assure you will be satisifed with them, as I am. These are the exact same kits I have on my bike now. If I didn't like it, I would remove it.
This allows you to remove the stock bulky reservoir mounted on the side of battery box, along with the big reservoir hose.
Don't worry about there being less fluid in the reservoir. When you press the back brake pedal the fluid barely moves, as the rear brake's piston is pretty small.
I have ten of these available, and will do my best to ship pretty quick. I'm doing this because of my love for the Superhawk, and my neverending quest to make them better both functionally, and cosmetically.
Edit: The setup is super flexible, so if you hit it with your boot it will not hurt it.
Edit 2: Last time these were $12 shipped, the material cost went up a bit this time, so these are now $15 shipped. Sorry about that.
Preferred payment method is paypal. You can send payment, with a good shipping address to: thedeatons at g m a i l . c o m.
James
Last edited by thedeatons; 04-09-2015 at 07:46 PM.
04-10-2015, 10:50 AM
#9
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Posts: 2,116
James,
Nice looking VTR.
A few questions regarding the rear brake MC reservoir mod:
1. It appears in order to fill and bleed the caliper / MC you must remove the clamp and plug; is the clamp reusable and easy to remove and reinstall?
2. Have you checked the capacity (volume in CC) of the hose with new pads and caliper piston fully retracted (all the way seated back in bore) and when the piston is extended to full out with worn pads; as it appears the hose should be longer for more capacity to address full piston out?
3. Do you have a manufacturer part number and cost of the clamp tool at HD?
On another topic, do you have the total length of the wire leads from the wire harness to the stick coils for both cylinders? I'm ready to solder the OEM CBR600RR stick coil plug and wires to the OEM VTR1000F plugs and wires to the wiring harness but do not know if I need to splice in lengths of wire without first removing the fairing and seat cowl (which I do not want to do until I'm ready to install the coils along with a myriad of other mods and maintenance work).
As to your VTR, when are you going to install some all aluminum "racing" pilot foot pegs, a Penske rear shock, a rear tire hugger (or reinstall the "mud" flap that extends down from below the battery box) to protect your shock shaft from muck, and upgrade your front forks and brakes?
Thanks
Nice looking VTR.
A few questions regarding the rear brake MC reservoir mod:
1. It appears in order to fill and bleed the caliper / MC you must remove the clamp and plug; is the clamp reusable and easy to remove and reinstall?
2. Have you checked the capacity (volume in CC) of the hose with new pads and caliper piston fully retracted (all the way seated back in bore) and when the piston is extended to full out with worn pads; as it appears the hose should be longer for more capacity to address full piston out?
3. Do you have a manufacturer part number and cost of the clamp tool at HD?
On another topic, do you have the total length of the wire leads from the wire harness to the stick coils for both cylinders? I'm ready to solder the OEM CBR600RR stick coil plug and wires to the OEM VTR1000F plugs and wires to the wiring harness but do not know if I need to splice in lengths of wire without first removing the fairing and seat cowl (which I do not want to do until I'm ready to install the coils along with a myriad of other mods and maintenance work).
As to your VTR, when are you going to install some all aluminum "racing" pilot foot pegs, a Penske rear shock, a rear tire hugger (or reinstall the "mud" flap that extends down from below the battery box) to protect your shock shaft from muck, and upgrade your front forks and brakes?
Thanks
04-10-2015, 07:29 PM
#10
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Thanks for the questions! I'll try to address them one at a time:
1) The clamps are not reusable, they need to be cut off with diagonal cutters, or the crimper used to install them. If one was really concerned about eventually refilling the reservoir tube, then I can include an extra clamp. This shouldn't really be a concern though...
2) I have not checked the capacity, I will admit that. I only use my rear brake for trail braking, or wheelie control. Read: MINIMAL USE FOR ME. I've gone years with very little to no use on the rear brake pads, so for me this is a non-issue. If someone wants another inch added to their hose kit, I can do that no problem.
(I don't care to receive any lectures on this point, or to hear stories about the tiny back brake saving someone's life... I have a personal preference about this, and I'm not about to tell someone else how to ride their bike, so everyone please spare me the long retorts
3) Here is an Amazon link to the German brand Knipex crimper: http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-Crimpin.../dp/B005G2Q7UY. Home Depot sells one too, and usually has them in stock in the Poly aisle. I bought the Knipex brand because I'm a bit of a tool snob.... Home Depot has a cheaper brand I think...
4) Wire leads...Front and rear are about 10-12" long from harness plug to coil plug. That is plenty long...
5) No weird foot pegs for me. Penske rear shock is on my list, but I have a lot of family obligations first, plus a busted headlight reflector now. To be honest it is more of a dream list, and I really do not ride enough to justify it at this point. I don't want to install a hugger because I want an uncluttered look on the back end, hence the chain guard removal and countershaft sprocket cover "Nicky mod". I also don't need a shock protector as I only ride in fair weather... We own two cars, and I've been riding 33 years, so riding is totally optional for me at this point, and I have no reason to ride when I choose not to.
Front forks and brakes are on the same list as the Penske.
What is on my "this year" list is a CBR600F3 front wheel... I just need to find an amazing deal on one...
BY THE WAY: 1 reservoir delete sold today, so I now have 9 left
P.S. Sorry for the silly sideways pictures... Apparently something is lost in translation when posting from my phone...
James
1) The clamps are not reusable, they need to be cut off with diagonal cutters, or the crimper used to install them. If one was really concerned about eventually refilling the reservoir tube, then I can include an extra clamp. This shouldn't really be a concern though...
2) I have not checked the capacity, I will admit that. I only use my rear brake for trail braking, or wheelie control. Read: MINIMAL USE FOR ME. I've gone years with very little to no use on the rear brake pads, so for me this is a non-issue. If someone wants another inch added to their hose kit, I can do that no problem.
(I don't care to receive any lectures on this point, or to hear stories about the tiny back brake saving someone's life... I have a personal preference about this, and I'm not about to tell someone else how to ride their bike, so everyone please spare me the long retorts
3) Here is an Amazon link to the German brand Knipex crimper: http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-Crimpin.../dp/B005G2Q7UY. Home Depot sells one too, and usually has them in stock in the Poly aisle. I bought the Knipex brand because I'm a bit of a tool snob.... Home Depot has a cheaper brand I think...
4) Wire leads...Front and rear are about 10-12" long from harness plug to coil plug. That is plenty long...
5) No weird foot pegs for me. Penske rear shock is on my list, but I have a lot of family obligations first, plus a busted headlight reflector now. To be honest it is more of a dream list, and I really do not ride enough to justify it at this point. I don't want to install a hugger because I want an uncluttered look on the back end, hence the chain guard removal and countershaft sprocket cover "Nicky mod". I also don't need a shock protector as I only ride in fair weather... We own two cars, and I've been riding 33 years, so riding is totally optional for me at this point, and I have no reason to ride when I choose not to.
Front forks and brakes are on the same list as the Penske.
What is on my "this year" list is a CBR600F3 front wheel... I just need to find an amazing deal on one...
BY THE WAY: 1 reservoir delete sold today, so I now have 9 left
P.S. Sorry for the silly sideways pictures... Apparently something is lost in translation when posting from my phone...
James
04-13-2015, 12:44 PM
#12
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James,
What I do not like about your kit is in order to bleed the rear brake system the MC tube cap must be removed (which means a reusable hose clamp will be needed) and a funnel or some temporary brake fluid reservoir attached to the MC hose in order to have sufficient volume of fluid to preclude cavitation during the fill and bleed process. The OEM MC reservoir obviates the need for such ministrations during the bleeding process.
What I do not like about your kit is in order to bleed the rear brake system the MC tube cap must be removed (which means a reusable hose clamp will be needed) and a funnel or some temporary brake fluid reservoir attached to the MC hose in order to have sufficient volume of fluid to preclude cavitation during the fill and bleed process. The OEM MC reservoir obviates the need for such ministrations during the bleeding process.
04-13-2015, 01:49 PM
#13
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Yep. This is true. You're more than welcome to substitute the top clamp with a worm drive if ya want.
After its bled once you shouldn't really need to do it again, assuming its bled properly. I use a large syring that sits right inside the hose, and i hang the rear caliper up high so all the air pushes out the top.
I could also include an extra clamp if you wish...
James
After its bled once you shouldn't really need to do it again, assuming its bled properly. I use a large syring that sits right inside the hose, and i hang the rear caliper up high so all the air pushes out the top.
I could also include an extra clamp if you wish...
James
04-13-2015, 06:25 PM
#15
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I don't know about you or other people but I flush and bleed my brakes and clutch every spring each season with synthetic DOT4. Another often overlooked maintenance task is I also dump, flush with synthetic Mobil 1 ATF and then fill my forks (with Silkolene Pro RSF5), and change my engine oil with Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic and filter (Purolater PL14610, synthetic media 3.25" length) every 4,000 miles or so.
In other words, whereas it would be possible to insert a turkey baster without the squeeze bulb into the MC tube to serve as a temporary large reservoir during the bleeding process, I'm still concerned about the insufficient volume of your MC tube; which I calculate should be at least 6" long to accommodate a fully retracted caliper piston.
In other words, whereas it would be possible to insert a turkey baster without the squeeze bulb into the MC tube to serve as a temporary large reservoir during the bleeding process, I'm still concerned about the insufficient volume of your MC tube; which I calculate should be at least 6" long to accommodate a fully retracted caliper piston.
Yep. This is true. You're more than welcome to substitute the top clamp with a worm drive if ya want.
After its bled once you shouldn't really need to do it again, assuming its bled properly. I use a large syring that sits right inside the hose, and i hang the rear caliper up high so all the air pushes out the top.
I could also include an extra clamp if you wish...
James
After its bled once you shouldn't really need to do it again, assuming its bled properly. I use a large syring that sits right inside the hose, and i hang the rear caliper up high so all the air pushes out the top.
I could also include an extra clamp if you wish...
James
04-13-2015, 08:35 PM
#16
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Yah, you're a nice guy, but not like most people...
I'm guessing no one else on the forum is that particular about their fluids. Not that you're wrong, in fact you should be commended for your maintenance schedule...
The point is that this mod isn't for everyone. Maybe it's not for you? If not that's ok. To each their own.
James
I'm guessing no one else on the forum is that particular about their fluids. Not that you're wrong, in fact you should be commended for your maintenance schedule...
The point is that this mod isn't for everyone. Maybe it's not for you? If not that's ok. To each their own.
James
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