Heads with 1mm oversize valves for sale UK plus other items
03-19-2016, 01:10 PM
#1
aka tony.mon, vtr1000.org
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
Heads with 1mm oversize valves for sale UK plus other items
1. Clutch cover and alternator cover, fitted with matching Kevlar and Carbon Fibre crash protection from Carbonadi.
These aren't the cheap skins you can buy for a few pounds, they are thick and tough enough to cope with a drop. Have a look at the thickness of the material on the alt side where the inspection cover sits, it took me hours to machine the holes!
There is a small mark on the alt cover where the edge of the fairing sits against it:
And as a sweetener they come with a full stainless allen bolt set.
I think they're worth £150, as (as long as you haven't just damaged your own ones) you can sell your own ones to recoup some of the money. Plus postage to your address unless you collect from Sevenoaks, Kent or Clapham, London
2. Fuel pump conversion- a recommended mod for a track day bike.
When I had mine fitted it sat neatly in the vee between the cylinders, meaning that you remove the coolant catch tank and fit a nice neat HRC overflow bottle instead- so I'll throw one of those in.
I used two dry-break lines with 8mm fittings on the two fuel lines from the tank, so it makes the tank easy and quick to remove. The flow rate is way higher than you will ever use even on track with a wot, so no worries there. You tee the two lines together and feed into the pump., then the pump outlet tees into the two carbs.
There is one other mod to do with this mod- as I found out when trying to keep my bike running on the way to Devon last year
but I sussed it in the end. The fuel tap diaphragm is "sucked" into the closed position by the pump's "vacuum" which stops fuel flowing. To stop this happening, all I did was to disassemble the fuel tap and place the small spring on the other side of the diaphragm- simples. That's on the early fuel tap type, the later one is ok, just remove the fuel tap and connect up the dry breaks instead. And that will save some weight!
Including overflow bottle, relay, fuse and wiring, ready to go, £45 plus postage.
3.
A pair of cylinder heads, in good condition, fitted with flat-faced 1mm over size inlet valves, as recommended by Roger of Revolution Racing.
I was after the valves for this conversion a long time, until i managed to track down the original manufacturer who made the valves for the racing project. They had a few left, so i bought them. They now have none left. so this is probably your last chance to buy, unless you want to get some valves manufactured (I checked prices for this- it ain't cheap is all i'm saying!).
I have cleaned up the head tracts, they've been cleaned and lightly polished, it's not a full port job and not much material has been removed.
I had the heads machined to take the larger valves, and these have been running only a couple of months before I broke the bike. The head faces were skimmed to give a clean face, very little material was removed so it won't affect compression much, if at all. These heads just bolt on in place of your old ones....
I've never seen a pair of heads for sale with oversize inlet valves (apparently there's no advantage increasing the size of the exhausts), so I think that they're worth a fair bit. I'm not sure how much, though, as there have never been any sold that I'm aware of, so there's no guide price.
So I'm listing them at £400, plus postage or collection from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, London.
I'm not leaving them on here for long, though, so snap them up or they go on Ebay.
Enjoy- I have!
Obviously they come complete with the matching cams, cam caps, buckets, shims, (shouldn't need re-shimming, but check for yourself when installed)
For non-UK owners, I am happy to ship these at postage cost.
But you're welcome to drop in if you're passing...
Tony
These aren't the cheap skins you can buy for a few pounds, they are thick and tough enough to cope with a drop. Have a look at the thickness of the material on the alt side where the inspection cover sits, it took me hours to machine the holes!
There is a small mark on the alt cover where the edge of the fairing sits against it:
And as a sweetener they come with a full stainless allen bolt set.
I think they're worth £150, as (as long as you haven't just damaged your own ones) you can sell your own ones to recoup some of the money. Plus postage to your address unless you collect from Sevenoaks, Kent or Clapham, London
2. Fuel pump conversion- a recommended mod for a track day bike.
When I had mine fitted it sat neatly in the vee between the cylinders, meaning that you remove the coolant catch tank and fit a nice neat HRC overflow bottle instead- so I'll throw one of those in.
I used two dry-break lines with 8mm fittings on the two fuel lines from the tank, so it makes the tank easy and quick to remove. The flow rate is way higher than you will ever use even on track with a wot, so no worries there. You tee the two lines together and feed into the pump., then the pump outlet tees into the two carbs.
There is one other mod to do with this mod- as I found out when trying to keep my bike running on the way to Devon last year
but I sussed it in the end. The fuel tap diaphragm is "sucked" into the closed position by the pump's "vacuum" which stops fuel flowing. To stop this happening, all I did was to disassemble the fuel tap and place the small spring on the other side of the diaphragm- simples. That's on the early fuel tap type, the later one is ok, just remove the fuel tap and connect up the dry breaks instead. And that will save some weight!
Including overflow bottle, relay, fuse and wiring, ready to go, £45 plus postage.
3.
A pair of cylinder heads, in good condition, fitted with flat-faced 1mm over size inlet valves, as recommended by Roger of Revolution Racing.
I was after the valves for this conversion a long time, until i managed to track down the original manufacturer who made the valves for the racing project. They had a few left, so i bought them. They now have none left. so this is probably your last chance to buy, unless you want to get some valves manufactured (I checked prices for this- it ain't cheap is all i'm saying!).
I have cleaned up the head tracts, they've been cleaned and lightly polished, it's not a full port job and not much material has been removed.
I had the heads machined to take the larger valves, and these have been running only a couple of months before I broke the bike. The head faces were skimmed to give a clean face, very little material was removed so it won't affect compression much, if at all. These heads just bolt on in place of your old ones....
I've never seen a pair of heads for sale with oversize inlet valves (apparently there's no advantage increasing the size of the exhausts), so I think that they're worth a fair bit. I'm not sure how much, though, as there have never been any sold that I'm aware of, so there's no guide price.
So I'm listing them at £400, plus postage or collection from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, London.
I'm not leaving them on here for long, though, so snap them up or they go on Ebay.
Enjoy- I have!
Obviously they come complete with the matching cams, cam caps, buckets, shims, (shouldn't need re-shimming, but check for yourself when installed)
For non-UK owners, I am happy to ship these at postage cost.
But you're welcome to drop in if you're passing...
Tony
03-20-2016, 11:57 AM
#2
aka tony.mon, vtr1000.org
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
By the way I've replaced the stainless but longer exhaust studs on the front head with new Honda ones- I fitted the longer ones for my headers with Lambda sensors in for the realtime a/f display I was running.
03-21-2016, 12:33 PM
#4
aka tony.mon, vtr1000.org
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
It stops fuel surging on heavy braking or acceleration, also gives more consistent fuelling. I found that it made the bike run richer by approx one main jet size., i.e. I could drop one main jet size and get to the same af ratios.
When fitted, you get consistent fuel pressure whether the tank is full or empty.
You don't get more power, you get less variability.
When fitted, you get consistent fuel pressure whether the tank is full or empty.
You don't get more power, you get less variability.
05-15-2016, 01:16 AM
#7
aka tony.mon, vtr1000.org
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
Yes, and it comes complete with everything you'll need, including an HRC coolant overflow tank. The pump sits in the vee where the std coolant overflow tank goes, so an HRC one does the job and sits just above the RH side radiator.
I'll throw in the fuel line quick connects as well.
I'll throw in the fuel line quick connects as well.
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