FS tail touring rack
#1
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Location: Beaverton, OR
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FS tail touring rack
This is a hand made aluminum tail rack. I have two of them for sale. I can also have them painted black. They connect to the two studs that hold your seat hooks. It is very strong and stylish. I am also selling these to guage interest. I can build more. I want $60 plus shipping. I prefer paypal but can probably work other methods out as well. Let me know what you think.
One sold so one left...
One sold so one left...
Last edited by Little_Horse; 02-08-2010 at 07:08 AM. Reason: Price change
#5
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does your seat have any studs sticking out downward under the seat? If there are then I would just need the dimensions stud to stud and from the studs to the very back edge of the seat. I have seen the underside of a corbin seat and the don't have any studs for the hooks but I don't know about a sargent seat.
#8
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they work just as good a they look. I was able to strap all my camping gear on it for my trip. And once I took a very large hanging basket on it back home to my wife. I thought it would need more places for hooks but actually it worked great they way it was, and that way I could keep it simple looking.
#10
What is the finish? Is that silver paint? Do you have the ability to powdercoat? Finally could you make it in different colors, black for instance?
I wouldn't ask so many questions, but it actually looks pretty useful and $50 is probably a reasonable price point
I wouldn't ask so many questions, but it actually looks pretty useful and $50 is probably a reasonable price point
#11
Because your rack is so small, I don't see the advantage over of just using a semi-rigid tail bag. Structurally yhe design relies on a questionable mounting point, with load deflection transfered to the top of the saddle with any meaningfull weight.
Have you looked at how the Ventura system L-Brackets attach to the VTR? I have 2 of their racks, one I've modified to accept a Hard case. Their racks can be mounted over the saddle or spun 180 to free up the saddle.
http://www.ventura-bike.com/fitments.aspx?modelid=318
Just my 2 cents.
Have you looked at how the Ventura system L-Brackets attach to the VTR? I have 2 of their racks, one I've modified to accept a Hard case. Their racks can be mounted over the saddle or spun 180 to free up the saddle.
http://www.ventura-bike.com/fitments.aspx?modelid=318
Just my 2 cents.
#12
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I will post a pic when I get home tonight.
They currently are painted with a special paint for aluminum, that just happens to look like aluminum. It can be painted over with any color you like. Also if enough people want one black I will do a powder coated run of them.
Thanks for the input, this rack is more designed so that you can strap anything down on the tail whether a bag or camping gear like sleeping bags or anything else imaginable. As far as "questionable mounting" I wouldn't strap a 100 pounds to it. As long as your hooks are working right underneath the seat it will easily hold 40 pounds. Also the seat is made to handle two up so the weight and deflection is , minimal at best. I have used this rack alot strap 20 pounds to it and it didn't wobble or deflect at tripple digit speeds. I will post a few more pictures tonight so you can see.
Because your rack is so small, I don't see the advantage over of just using a semi-rigid tail bag. Structurally yhe design relies on a questionable mounting point, with load deflection transfered to the top of the saddle with any meaningfull weight.
Have you looked at how the Ventura system L-Brackets attach to the VTR? I have 2 of their racks, one I've modified to accept a Hard case. Their racks can be mounted over the saddle or spun 180 to free up the saddle.
http://www.ventura-bike.com/fitments.aspx?modelid=318
Just my 2 cents.
Have you looked at how the Ventura system L-Brackets attach to the VTR? I have 2 of their racks, one I've modified to accept a Hard case. Their racks can be mounted over the saddle or spun 180 to free up the saddle.
http://www.ventura-bike.com/fitments.aspx?modelid=318
Just my 2 cents.
#17
and I would think the seat coming off depends on whether you do or not.. and the rear pillion SHOUDL support 100+ lbs..
#18
#20
Cool design. I don't need one - have a rack already. Just a thought: Would the rack benefit from having a cross member running from front to back? Added strength and another place to hook tiedowns is what I'm thinking.
#21
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I had thought about it when making the racks, but decided to try it the way it was, because it is easier to build and uses less material. Sofar after having used the rack for about six months, and carrying very different type loads on it, honestly I have never needed more places to hook the tie downs. Or have I ever needed more strength from the rack. Although if someone really would prefer it that way I would have no problem customizing it like that.
Last edited by Little_Horse; 11-26-2008 at 07:12 AM.
#23
What carries the weight on the back end of the rack?
I understand your point about the seat being designed for a passenger, but I think the seat carries their weight on those plastic blocks on either side of the latch.
I just bought saddle bags and it seems like they could still be installed with this on there.
For now I just hooked a bungee net over my top cargo and attached the 4 corners to where the top bag would normally attach. But it'd be nice to have a better place to secure it to.
I understand your point about the seat being designed for a passenger, but I think the seat carries their weight on those plastic blocks on either side of the latch.
I just bought saddle bags and it seems like they could still be installed with this on there.
For now I just hooked a bungee net over my top cargo and attached the 4 corners to where the top bag would normally attach. But it'd be nice to have a better place to secure it to.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; 03-04-2009 at 05:20 PM.
#25
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What carries the weight on the back end of the rack?
I understand your point about the seat being designed for a passenger, but I think the seat carries their weight on those plastic blocks on either side of the latch.
I just bought saddle bags and it seems like they could still be installed with this on there.
For now I just hooked a bungee net over my top cargo and attached the 4 corners to where the top bag would normally attach. But it'd be nice to have a better place to secure it to.
I understand your point about the seat being designed for a passenger, but I think the seat carries their weight on those plastic blocks on either side of the latch.
I just bought saddle bags and it seems like they could still be installed with this on there.
For now I just hooked a bungee net over my top cargo and attached the 4 corners to where the top bag would normally attach. But it'd be nice to have a better place to secure it to.
to answer blue streak I have a modified sharkskins race fairing on my bike
Also to bump the thread, spring is around the corner and I would love to get a few more of these shipped out people who could enjoy them as much I as I have.
#28
Cornandp:
Have you thought about designing it so the passenger seat fairing can remain on the seat?
I took measurements on my Corbin seat and where the fairing tabs screw into the bottom of the seat is 8 /16" and from there to the back edge of the seat is 10"
Here is a picture
I would be interested in one if you could make it to fit over the rear fairing.
Have you thought about designing it so the passenger seat fairing can remain on the seat?
I took measurements on my Corbin seat and where the fairing tabs screw into the bottom of the seat is 8 /16" and from there to the back edge of the seat is 10"
Here is a picture
I would be interested in one if you could make it to fit over the rear fairing.
#30
Correction...sorry I assumed they were the same. I actually have both seats and put them side by side. The bolt location is different and would require some type of modification to mount new bolts to the sargent seatpan. You could probably pretty easily overlay the rack on the seat, mark it & drill two holes in the seatpan (dont go too deep ) big enough for the head (say 1/2" away from where you need the bolt to exit) and then a slot just wide enough for the threads (so the head will hold) and slip two bolts in the correct location on the sargent pan.
Last edited by captainchaos; 03-13-2009 at 10:35 AM.