Won't Start :(
12-06-2015, 01:48 PM
#32
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 16
Thanks guy! I don't know what you mean by "Slides," but as far as I know, everything on this bike is stock OEM from the showroom floor, except for a small box from Badlands, which so far serves no purpose. But that's not saying much since I've only owned it for about 2 months.
I have the service manual on my computer, I followed all the steps for cleaning the carbs from that.
I'll reclean the carbs and tank. I never synced the carbs as I was never able to get the bike running to do so.
What do you mean by shimming the needles? All I did was screw the 3 back in that I took out. I'm not using s jet kit. Just cleaning them and re installing.
How much play does the pilot screw have in starting the bike? I couldn't find any solid specs on how much to turn it out, so I just searched on the forums. One of the posts said generally, it's 1.5 out in the front and 2.25 out in the back. Is that wrong and/or could that prevent it from starting or getting fuel to the engine? That would be such a relieving, easy fix.
I have the service manual on my computer, I followed all the steps for cleaning the carbs from that.
I'll reclean the carbs and tank. I never synced the carbs as I was never able to get the bike running to do so.
What do you mean by shimming the needles? All I did was screw the 3 back in that I took out. I'm not using s jet kit. Just cleaning them and re installing.
How much play does the pilot screw have in starting the bike? I couldn't find any solid specs on how much to turn it out, so I just searched on the forums. One of the posts said generally, it's 1.5 out in the front and 2.25 out in the back. Is that wrong and/or could that prevent it from starting or getting fuel to the engine? That would be such a relieving, easy fix.
12-07-2015, 11:48 AM
#36
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
O.K,
I suggest that you remove the carbs and start again.
Use the exploded diagram to ensure that everything is in the right place.
Take pictures as you go as well for a reference.
When you took the top of the carbs out the slide is is attached to the diaphragm and the needle is the long pointy part that extends through the slide. In the manual it could be called a vacuum piston. If you took the needle out of the piston(slide) that may be where the left over washers and O Ring came from.
Also if you separated the carbs from the mounting plates they could be that far out of sync that it won't start.
Some pictures would help.
Are there any members close by that can have a look for you?
Sorry I am at a loss as to what your problem is, could be something really simple, that is why I am suggesting that you remove the carbs, inspect your previous work and start again.
I would like a $ for every time I have done something to a bike and got it wrong, only to realise the mistake when I have gone back to the start of the job and realised that I have stuffed up.
Good luck, let us know what happens.
I suggest that you remove the carbs and start again.
Use the exploded diagram to ensure that everything is in the right place.
Take pictures as you go as well for a reference.
When you took the top of the carbs out the slide is is attached to the diaphragm and the needle is the long pointy part that extends through the slide. In the manual it could be called a vacuum piston. If you took the needle out of the piston(slide) that may be where the left over washers and O Ring came from.
Also if you separated the carbs from the mounting plates they could be that far out of sync that it won't start.
Some pictures would help.
Are there any members close by that can have a look for you?
Sorry I am at a loss as to what your problem is, could be something really simple, that is why I am suggesting that you remove the carbs, inspect your previous work and start again.
I would like a $ for every time I have done something to a bike and got it wrong, only to realise the mistake when I have gone back to the start of the job and realised that I have stuffed up.
Good luck, let us know what happens.
12-07-2015, 02:00 PM
#37
Well take off, eh.
SuperBike
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: QC, Canada
Posts: 1,201
Once everything is back onto the bike, and gas in the tank, start it to see if gas gets to the carbs. All you have to do is unscrew the drain screws off the bottom of the carb bowls. If you have gas that gets to the carbs, then your problem lies with the job you originally did. (CCT's, valves, etc). Something is wrong their.
12-12-2015, 05:04 PM
#38
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 3
12-12-2015, 05:15 PM
#39
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 3
You don't need to start the bike for this. It's not perfect, but will get you close enough to start, and ride the bike. Use a filler guage to calculate the gap between the butterfly, and carb body, and then adjust until bother are equal.
Once everything is back onto the bike, and gas in the tank, start it to see if gas gets to the carbs. All you have to do is unscrew the drain screws off the bottom of the carb bowls. If you have gas that gets to the carbs, then your problem lies with the job you originally did. (CCT's, valves, etc). Something is wrong their.
Once everything is back onto the bike, and gas in the tank, start it to see if gas gets to the carbs. All you have to do is unscrew the drain screws off the bottom of the carb bowls. If you have gas that gets to the carbs, then your problem lies with the job you originally did. (CCT's, valves, etc). Something is wrong their.
12-12-2015, 07:09 PM
#40
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 283
I have been reading through your posts and I feel your pain. There is nothing like having a bike project be so close and yet refuse to give it up for you to ride. I have been down this road more times than I care to imagine.
Just because something appears stock doesn't mean it is or that some ham fisted would be mechanic hasn't screwed something up before you got it. As my old boss used to say to me "you are going to have to check every dirty thing it could be."
You identified a number of issues from a dodgy battery to rust in the tank. If you haven't already the first thing I would and I mean the first would be to replace that battery. You can save a lot of grief if you have a fresh battery to start with.
Here is another thought. Back when I was getting mine together I had the engine rebuilt but like an idiot, I made the assumption that the heads were fine. I broke a valve spring keeper on my first long ride. It bent a valve. It would run on one cylinder after that but not for long. If you heard valves and you had never heard that before I would look there.
If it were me I would start with a compression test (I bought one off ebay.) I would want to know if I was getting good compression before I touched anything else. At this point you can't make assumptions. You have to know!
Just because something appears stock doesn't mean it is or that some ham fisted would be mechanic hasn't screwed something up before you got it. As my old boss used to say to me "you are going to have to check every dirty thing it could be."
You identified a number of issues from a dodgy battery to rust in the tank. If you haven't already the first thing I would and I mean the first would be to replace that battery. You can save a lot of grief if you have a fresh battery to start with.
Here is another thought. Back when I was getting mine together I had the engine rebuilt but like an idiot, I made the assumption that the heads were fine. I broke a valve spring keeper on my first long ride. It bent a valve. It would run on one cylinder after that but not for long. If you heard valves and you had never heard that before I would look there.
If it were me I would start with a compression test (I bought one off ebay.) I would want to know if I was getting good compression before I touched anything else. At this point you can't make assumptions. You have to know!
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