Another thing you could do that might be easier is just put a K&N air filter on.
Because it will lean the mixture out by itself.
I was on AC Hwy today @ 7000 feet and the bike pulls clean @ that altitude.
I've had other bikes that ran fine @ sea level, and would misfire on the main jet at 7000 feet.

Just a thought, worth a try?

~Jeffers

 

Personally if you are going to go with the trouble...Buy a jet kit from Factory. They are awesome! I just got done re-jetting my bike when I moved from Colorado Springs to Orlando, FL and man! Holly crap what a difference. Once you get into it and figure out what you are doing its easy. Rejetting your bike is maybe an hours worth of work. Probably 3-4 your first time but its worth it.

Also I highly recommend if you do re-jet your bike, disable PAIR, throw in a K&N and either gut out your exhaust (exhaust bafflectomy) or buy a new set. I did the Exhaust bafflectomy and holy crap! its nice! easy!

 

I know it's the right thing to do, but it sure seems odd to run mismatched jets.

What's PAIR?

What's involved in getting to the jets? I might want to pull the washers out.
________
Justin Bieber

 

What do you mean run mismatched Jets? Like Dynojet vs. Factory?

Whats involved in getting to the jets is: Removing Tank, Air box, Carbs, float chamber covers, and a bunch of hoses, throttle cables, couple of coolant hoses ect...You would need a service maunal to accomplish this. 10$ off of ebay.

The PAIR is:
The Pulse secondary AIR injection system takes air from the airbox, via
a vacuum-operated control valve, and injects it through the two PAIR
check valves (located on each valve cover) into the hot exhaust gas.
The oxygen in the air allows any unburnt fuel to ignite (which it will
because it's still hot as hell). The control valve opens on deceleration,
when vacuum is at its highest. The PAIR check valves are reed-type valves
and only allow flow into the heads. There is a "reed stopper" which
prevents the metal reed from opening too far and thus permanently
bending. It's a relatively simple system.


TO DISABLE:
--PROCEDURE--
To disable (or block) the PAIR valve:
-Remove the seat and tank (and PLEASE mark the vacuum/vent/fuel lines to
the tank so you can remember which way to reinstall them!!! Not doing
so may cause pain to yourself and the innocent little hard drive on the
VTR list server.)
-Remove the rubber hoses going to each PAIR valve.
-Remove the two bolts holding each PAIR valve in place.
-Remove the PAIR valves.
-You will see a small screw holding the reed stopper and reed in place.
Remove the screw, flip the reed stopper to hold the reed shut, and
replace the screw.
-You just disabled PAIR.
-Put everything back together (3.6 ft-lb on the PAIR valve bolts)

 

Hmmm - I feel I should ask: Is there any advantage to removing the PAIR system? I mean - I don't want to give up hp, but if it's costing me .3 horsepower to save the environment, I'll just leave them on. On the other hand if they don't do much good in the first place and you pick up 10%, then they are gone.

Thanks!
________
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My biggest issue was that when I let off of the throttle my bike would backfire or have that really bad popping sound. It got really really bad when I did the exhaust so I disabled them. That was why I did it. Im not sure about performance...Im sure there really is no performance issues with doing it so I guess its all up to you...

 

Hmmm - I'm getting just a little bit of popping on harder decels, and I like it. :-) With nothing fragile in the pipes to worry about breaking, I think it's just fine.

Issues I do have:
1)the occasional, low RPM backfire (ignition in the airbox) - around 1k.
2) Stalling when braking hard after a long cruise at steady, meduim speed. This is annoying with the nuetral cut out.

Any auggestions anyone?
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