What Brand Rectifier?
#2
I purchased an electrosport R/R (I think the company changed names), and turned out it was bad from factory... well... that's a 1/2 truth. I purchased it off ebay that stated it was new, but had my doubts. Threw it on, and was still cooking batteries. It was putting 18 volts back into the battery @ 1400 rpm.
I was talking to my new mechanic, and he said the best thing to do would be to get a finned unit, and throw a cpu cooling fan on it. He claimed R/R's failed because they over heat. So there you go...
Either way, he installed the update stock R/R on it. Cost me 200 bucks, but then again, he installed LED lights all around, manual CCT's, new R/R, and cleaned it up. I think I got a good deal.
KG
I was talking to my new mechanic, and he said the best thing to do would be to get a finned unit, and throw a cpu cooling fan on it. He claimed R/R's failed because they over heat. So there you go...
Either way, he installed the update stock R/R on it. Cost me 200 bucks, but then again, he installed LED lights all around, manual CCT's, new R/R, and cleaned it up. I think I got a good deal.
KG
#4
I used one from an '04 (I think) R1. $25 on ebay. It is much bigger than the stock one, with larger cooling fins. it won't fit in the stock location, so mine is secured to the subframe on the left side of the bike. if you do buy a used one from a different bike, try to get the plug with it too.
#5
The later Honda unit with cooling fins seems to hold up a lot better than the older non finned ones... I have not heard of any failures with the updated units. The R1 unit looks even beefier and if you don't mind doing a little rewiring its probably the best way to go.
#6
I got one of these last year, plug & play, 6 month warranty too.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....fierregulators
Doug O.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....fierregulators
Doug O.
#8
definitely the R1 r/r. my r/r went bad just not too long ago. i ordered an R1 r/r, cut off the honda plug, made my own plug for the R1 r/r, plugged it in, wrapped the hell out of it with electrical tape and off i went. its a very easy switch and the R1 r/r is much larger than the honda r/r's, and it has bigger cooling fins. if you want to know how to do the swap (if you dont already) let me know.
#9
I purchased a r/r from an '06 R6(same as R1) on Ebay for $30. Cut off the plug on the bike, which was fried anyway, bought some spade plugs and soldered 'em on(soldered to wire and to the pins of the r/r). VERY secure connection. One of the probems with the stock r/r is a loose connection between the r/r and the plug resulting in a build of heat frying the plug. Also hooked up a voltage gauge to monitor everything. Maintains a nice 13-13.5v when parked and 14-14.4volts when moving. Put a little piece of protective shield on the inside of the seat cowl just to be sure, but the unit has not gotten hot. The R6 r/r has a 6 pin plug but only uses 5 of them, just like the Hawk. Top left for power, top right for ground and bottom three for stator. Hardest part was finding plugs to fit the pins.
#10
I bought an R/R for an R1 off of eBay. It *IS* huge.
wiring was a snap, three yellow wires on one side and the other two (red and ???) on the other side (newer 580 watt R/R for fuel injection bike).
I put it where the stock unit was and cut the seat cowl. (It was already chopped up from the pannier install.)
wiring was a snap, three yellow wires on one side and the other two (red and ???) on the other side (newer 580 watt R/R for fuel injection bike).
I put it where the stock unit was and cut the seat cowl. (It was already chopped up from the pannier install.)
#11
+1 on Rick's Motorsport R/R, I bought one after my stock R/R failed. It's now a one year warranty and free shipping, completely plug and play and works great. I found them to be friendly and helpful and made me feel like if it does fry within that year they will stand behind their product.
#13
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