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Useful Strip down photos for a VTR Firestorm

Old 09-11-2011, 02:30 PM
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Useful Strip down photos for a VTR Firestorm

Decided to strip the bike to check the valve clearances on the rear cylinder, main reason was to cure a slight oil leak on the APE CCT. Here are some photos of the job. Note this is a 2002 F2 model with the 19l tank. You will see there is no tap so I had to be a little adaptive.

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Disconnecting fuel sender unit

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Loosening pivot bolt at the rear of the tank

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Removing front bolts

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Support the tank using a piece of ply, note I use the tank bolts as added slippage protection

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View under the tank note 2002 model and no shutoff valve.



Adapted tool to clamp off the fuel line. Note, have as little fuel as possible in the tank. I had 1 bar on the fuel gauge

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Fuel line clamped off. Note the square rubber tank protector (one on each side) in the foreground of the above photo can fall off, don't loose them.
Next follow the main fuel delivery line from the left of the clamping device round to the fuel vacum assembly. Unscrew the fuel line clamp & pull off the fuel hose, there will be a little fuel spillage so have a rag at the ready. Then pull off the vacum & overflow pipes from the bottom of the tank. Those are the 2 pipes still attached to the tank avove the clamping device in the above photo. Note, I have alread removed the nut at the end of the pivot bolt ready for tank removal. Support the tank, remove the pivot bolt , and lift away. Place the tank somewhere safe & I plugged the fuel delivery pipe using a 12mm bolt wrapped with some PTFE tape, this allowed me to remove the clamping device so as not to damage the pipe any further.

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Photo of the tank removed showing the vacum assembly including both main carb fuel feed pipes and the small vacum control pipe.

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Airbox lid removed showing air filter. Note you can remove this lid & change the air filter without removing the fuel tank by having it pivoted virtically as shown earlier, please have an assistant available to support the tank as you remove the airbox lid just in case.

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Air filter removed showing trumpets. Note: long trumpet at the rear & small at the front they are arrowed to the airbox housing as to correct orientation.



Trumpets removed & carb mouths secured against foreign bodies falling in.

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Airbox housing is secured with 8 bolts which are thread locked in. These have now been removed. Now comes the plumping bit. The following are photos of various pipes that need to be removed that can be done in any order. Accessability & small hands are an advantage here.

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Finally

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Airbox off. Next up is to remove the fuel vacum assembly

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No need to remove all the fuel lines I supported it with a shoe lace attached to the wing mirror

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The next sequence of photos is an aid to ensure you remove parts in a particular order so as to repeat in the re-assembly process

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Remove rubber protector

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Disconnect & remove rear cylinder pair valve pipe.

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Now you have reached the rear cylinder rocker cover. Before removing first remove the altenator center plug. (AS STATED IN OTHER THREADS THIS IS MADE FROM A VERY SOFT ALLU & CAN BE A SOD :Argue 1: ) I tapped mine back & forth & it eventually gave way. You may want a spare ready just in case you need to bastardise it off. When replacing it use some grease on the threads this will help removal next time round. Then remove the timing access plug to the left of the center plug. NOW REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS FOR BOTH CYLINDERS & COVER EXPOSED HOLES.

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Next remove the 4 rockercover retaining bolts

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Note: the orientation of the washers the way UP is clearly stated on them. I also smear them with engine oil when replaced.

Next you need to find TDC for the REAR cylinder please refer to the CCT thread for this proceedure. Below are photos of what TDC looks like for the REAR cylinder looking at the cam lobes/sprockets & timing window. Note (ALWAYS TURN THE MOTOR COUNTER CLOCKWISE USING A 17MM SOCKET ON THE BOLT IN THE CENTER OF THE ALTENATOR HOUSING).

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Reassembly is the reverse of what you have seen. This is as far as I went. My valve clearences are a shade on the tight side but have been reliably informed that they can wait for the the next workshop. I also stopped the leak on my APE CCT.



I hope this will help some of you out there I do like photos as they speak a thousand words. Happy spanners :thumbup:

Note I had to remove 7 photos from this post due to the 30 limit i believe the essence has not been lost.
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:49 PM
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Hey great write up, great pics, there should be a database on the forum to look this stuff up, would be useful. I kinda wish I woulda done this on my recent motor swap.
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:48 PM
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Well you have shown me some creativity (with the make-shift ,fuel clamps) and I am in agreeance with Smokin'Joe. I am just starting a from the frame build up(A real BASKET case- Superhawk) and you have shown me a reference to how to photo the process...

By the way- Not meaning to be nosey.. The propane heater in your photo- How well , or efficient are those heaters???
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:26 PM
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Bump.

Nice photos of what to do/look for when getting to valves.

Mahalo.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:00 PM
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So the tank you have with the different petcock location is the larger one or the smaller one?
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:09 PM
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I have a '98. I believe all the U.S. models were the same size(19l). On my tank the petcock is attatched to the tank with the on/off valve. Still great photos of what its like under the tank/ valve covers, for those who have not ventured that far yet.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:08 PM
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It would be much easier to just unbolt the petcock from the frame, than clamping the tube... That's just making things more complicated than they have to be...

With the petcock unbolted, you just unhook the carb feed lines and vacuum lines and let it follow the tank... That's the same as you do on the older bikes where the petcock is attached to the tank...

Nice reference images though...
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Onomea View Post
I have a '98. I believe all the U.S. models were the same size(19l). On my tank the petcock is attatched to the tank with the on/off valve. Still great photos of what its like under the tank/ valve covers, for those who have not ventured that far yet.
Please don't start this again...

YOU ARE WRONG!!!!! Can't say it in a nicer way, sorry... And it keeps confusing the issue further when people do searches and find X amount of posts like yours with "beliefs"...

The US bikes all have a 16L tank, not one of them was ever delivered from the factory with a 19L tank... Not a single one... You can either trust me on that, or find out for your self...

In Europe and Canada, as well as the rest of the world, in 01 the tank was upgraded to a 19L tank, and the petcock was moved to the frame to make room for the extra volume... For whatever reason I dunno, but I guess to keep parts similar, Honda decided to make that same change in the US bikes, even if they kept the 16L tank...

Darkember is UK based, so he does indeed have the 19L tank...
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:23 PM
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So today when adjusting my CCT on the front I believe it jumped 3 teeth based on the 3 clicks I heard...

Do both cams have identical markings to indicate where TDC is on each? I see your closeup of the right cam, but I don't see the left one.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:44 PM
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the front markings are FE and FI
FE is the left side cam
FI is the right side cam
make sure the crankshaft marking is on the FT marking

this should get you back in timing
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by saige View Post
the front markings are FE and FI
FE is the left side cam
FI is the right side cam
make sure the crankshaft marking is on the FT marking

this should get you back in timing
I got the crankshaft part down.
FI and FE, ignition and exhaust, gotcha, but what are they aligned with?

Basically how to I know if I am timed correctly or need to rotate one or the other based on the one that is always correct at TDC.
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Old 06-09-2012, 01:06 AM
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O.K. Tweety, didn't mean to cause confusion. Didn't catch his location. Just wanted to repost the pictorial part of the undersides. I did realize that his was a '02. Though even if it was the a newer/ non-U.S model, it did help me before, in getting an idea of the various hook-ups and locations of parts. I thought that it might also help those searching and certainly did not mean to confuse anyone. I was not definetly sure so I did not want to say so. Comment well taken, will try to be more careful next time.
I certainly do not question your knowledge base.
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Onomea View Post
O.K. Tweety, didn't mean to cause confusion. Didn't catch his location. Just wanted to repost the pictorial part of the undersides. I did realize that his was a '02. Though even if it was the a newer/ non-U.S model, it did help me before, in getting an idea of the various hook-ups and locations of parts. I thought that it might also help those searching and certainly did not mean to confuse anyone. I was not definetly sure so I did not want to say so. Comment well taken, will try to be more careful next time.
I certainly do not question your knowledge base.
No problem... I didn't take as misinformation at all, but the problem here is that it keeps happening in cycles... One confused newbie reads the other confused persons post, without reading the context... And in the end I get people telling me that "NO, I have a 19L tank, I saw it posted here (insert link to single post)"... Which if you then look at the entire thread is a post just like yours... Beleive me, it's happened twice now to me, so it's likely others have had similar discussions...
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by WordTooYoMamma View Post
I got the crankshaft part down.
FI and FE, ignition and exhaust, gotcha, but what are they aligned with?

Basically how to I know if I am timed correctly or need to rotate one or the other based on the one that is always correct at TDC.
The hash mark on each cam sprocket must align with the top surface of the cylinder head. Lay a straight edge across the head, or pull a string tight, for a good visual reference. Download the Factory Service Manual if you do not have any reference material.
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:55 AM
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**Just a note to correct my previous post(#6) without losing the context of the thread.**

As pointed out by a very well knowledged member, the fuel tank size on my U.S. model

tank is 16L(4.23 gals), NOT 19L. Sorry for the confusion. (Thanks Tweedy).

(Maybe I was wishing too hard that I did have the larger non-U.S. tank . )
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:29 PM
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knickers in bunch.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:56 PM
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Thanks tweety. I seem to recall seeing something saying that all the US models had the larger tank which I thought was 19L and then when he said he had the 19L tank with the different petcock I was a bit confused. What's the best way for someone in the US to acquire the 19L? Are there sites like Craigslist or other calssifides over there that a guy could look at?
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:40 AM
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Thanks for the pics.. Now I know how to get to my spark plug lol
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:16 AM
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Never saw this post, so took the time to read it.


Now, this is the fun part for me. I get to correct Tweety on misinformation about the tank size. No, Canada never got the 19L gas tank...;O)
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:14 PM
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Firestorm and Superhawks are a little different. My Superhawk has the petcock attached the to the tank... other than that the pictures helped me a lot thanks..

JON
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jonjonsocal View Post
Firestorm and Superhawks are a little different. My Superhawk has the petcock attached the to the tank... other than that the pictures helped me a lot thanks..

JON
16L tanks have it on the tank, 19l have it on the frame is my understanding.
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