UPDATE: speedhawks missing cyclinder..
UPDATE: speedhawks missing cyclinder..
ohh where to start.
if yall remember, i was having a cylinder missfire when my 98 stupidhawk got up to running temperature.
in no exact order at all:
i adjusted the valves
cleaned the carbs out ( very good )
cleaned the tank out
cleaned the petcock out
installed in-line fuel filters (after i saw all the crap that came out of carbs/tank/petcock)
ran a compresion check before/after failure ( perfect via honda specs )
synced the carbs at idle
checked for vapor lock
I replaced:
spark plugs
both coils
spark plug boots with the long NGK boots
BOTH CDI packs ( in case they were getting hot and breaking down?)
and the carb boots.
theory on the carb boots was that when the motor got hot, the aluminum intake manifold expanded and opened up a pin-hole leak in the carb boot.
now then, when i replaced the carb boots, it ran great for 600 miles!!!
after that is when i cleaned the fuel system and replaced spark boots and the 2nd cdi pack....
I have double checked all my work multiple times.
it still missfires!!
it idles for about 7-8 minutes religiously every time before the rear cyclinder shuts down.
My buddy ( head honda mechanic for 15 years ) now has his own bike shop and cant figure it out either.
he ohm'ed out the stator and it ohm'ed wierd he said. I am fairly savy on these bikes but what does the stator do? and has anyone else ever had a problem with thier stator?
ill take any help i can get. im tired of spending money in this superhawk..
if yall remember, i was having a cylinder missfire when my 98 stupidhawk got up to running temperature.
in no exact order at all:
i adjusted the valves
cleaned the carbs out ( very good )
cleaned the tank out
cleaned the petcock out
installed in-line fuel filters (after i saw all the crap that came out of carbs/tank/petcock)
ran a compresion check before/after failure ( perfect via honda specs )
synced the carbs at idle
checked for vapor lock
I replaced:
spark plugs
both coils
spark plug boots with the long NGK boots
BOTH CDI packs ( in case they were getting hot and breaking down?)
and the carb boots.
theory on the carb boots was that when the motor got hot, the aluminum intake manifold expanded and opened up a pin-hole leak in the carb boot.
now then, when i replaced the carb boots, it ran great for 600 miles!!!
after that is when i cleaned the fuel system and replaced spark boots and the 2nd cdi pack....
I have double checked all my work multiple times.
it still missfires!!
it idles for about 7-8 minutes religiously every time before the rear cyclinder shuts down.
My buddy ( head honda mechanic for 15 years ) now has his own bike shop and cant figure it out either.
he ohm'ed out the stator and it ohm'ed wierd he said. I am fairly savy on these bikes but what does the stator do? and has anyone else ever had a problem with thier stator?
ill take any help i can get. im tired of spending money in this superhawk..
The stator is part of the charging system... I doubt that going bad would cause issues with only 1 cylinder though.
ohh where to start.
if yall remember, i was having a cylinder missfire when my 98 stupidhawk got up to running temperature.
in no exact order at all:
i adjusted the valves
cleaned the carbs out ( very good )
cleaned the tank out
cleaned the petcock out
installed in-line fuel filters (after i saw all the crap that came out of carbs/tank/petcock)
ran a compresion check before/after failure ( perfect via honda specs )
synced the carbs at idle
checked for vapor lock
I replaced:
spark plugs
both coils
spark plug boots with the long NGK boots
BOTH CDI packs ( in case they were getting hot and breaking down?)
and the carb boots.
theory on the carb boots was that when the motor got hot, the aluminum intake manifold expanded and opened up a pin-hole leak in the carb boot.
now then, when i replaced the carb boots, it ran great for 600 miles!!!
after that is when i cleaned the fuel system and replaced spark boots and the 2nd cdi pack....
I have double checked all my work multiple times.
it still missfires!!
it idles for about 7-8 minutes religiously every time before the rear cyclinder shuts down.
My buddy ( head honda mechanic for 15 years ) now has his own bike shop and cant figure it out either.
he ohm'ed out the stator and it ohm'ed wierd he said. I am fairly savy on these bikes but what does the stator do? and has anyone else ever had a problem with thier stator?
ill take any help i can get. im tired of spending money in this superhawk..
if yall remember, i was having a cylinder missfire when my 98 stupidhawk got up to running temperature.
in no exact order at all:
i adjusted the valves
cleaned the carbs out ( very good )
cleaned the tank out
cleaned the petcock out
installed in-line fuel filters (after i saw all the crap that came out of carbs/tank/petcock)
ran a compresion check before/after failure ( perfect via honda specs )
synced the carbs at idle
checked for vapor lock
I replaced:
spark plugs
both coils
spark plug boots with the long NGK boots
BOTH CDI packs ( in case they were getting hot and breaking down?)
and the carb boots.
theory on the carb boots was that when the motor got hot, the aluminum intake manifold expanded and opened up a pin-hole leak in the carb boot.
now then, when i replaced the carb boots, it ran great for 600 miles!!!
after that is when i cleaned the fuel system and replaced spark boots and the 2nd cdi pack....
I have double checked all my work multiple times.
it still missfires!!
it idles for about 7-8 minutes religiously every time before the rear cyclinder shuts down.
My buddy ( head honda mechanic for 15 years ) now has his own bike shop and cant figure it out either.
he ohm'ed out the stator and it ohm'ed wierd he said. I am fairly savy on these bikes but what does the stator do? and has anyone else ever had a problem with thier stator?
ill take any help i can get. im tired of spending money in this superhawk..

Last edited by RickB; Jun 25, 2008 at 05:50 PM.
If they are identical (I assume they are), switch out the carb slides/diaphragms and see if the problem goes to the front cylinder. When I had issues with mine, it was months between events.
I initially discovered the problem after I followed the directions to the "T" for shimming the stock needle mod I saw on the net. It called for using dielectric grease on the slides during reassembly. Bad mistake as that stuff isn't good in a petroleum environment and it caked up good making the slide stick open. Liberally lubing them with Honda's silicon spray got the diaphragm soft and pliable and the slides nice and smooth.
Thanks to the superhawk torque, it still made it home 15 miles away on one cylinder!
I initially discovered the problem after I followed the directions to the "T" for shimming the stock needle mod I saw on the net. It called for using dielectric grease on the slides during reassembly. Bad mistake as that stuff isn't good in a petroleum environment and it caked up good making the slide stick open. Liberally lubing them with Honda's silicon spray got the diaphragm soft and pliable and the slides nice and smooth.
Thanks to the superhawk torque, it still made it home 15 miles away on one cylinder!
Last edited by superbling; Jun 25, 2008 at 08:37 PM.
whew. not like i havnt pulled it down to the carbs half a dozen times anyways.
haha no doubt about it, the old hawk still does usually get me home. this has now been occuring since about september last year.. and i have never stoped working on it. the longest it sat in the garage without being worked on was about 3 weeks ( in the winter ). so i havnt been procrastinating, just wanting to ride!!!

praise kawasaki for selling me KLR last month... almost a cure for my itch
haha no doubt about it, the old hawk still does usually get me home. this has now been occuring since about september last year.. and i have never stoped working on it. the longest it sat in the garage without being worked on was about 3 weeks ( in the winter ). so i havnt been procrastinating, just wanting to ride!!!

praise kawasaki for selling me KLR last month... almost a cure for my itch
Logically, this has to be heat-related, but you make no mention of how it runs on the road, only at idle. Does it start dropping a cylinder more quickly under load than at idle? My thoughts are that if it's heat related then it is probably electronic, more often than not a coil, but then you said you replaced them already. The other theory is that it's fuel related, and this is the one I'm leaning toward. Sounds like you're running out of fuel on one cylinder. Try this: Start the bike. Take the choke off. Let it idle until the bike starts to drop a cylinder and then pull the choke out. Does the cylinder pick back up for a short time? If so then you have a carb problem.
hey guys sorry for the delay. i have been out of town. i will check the last thing you said greg. my bike is at work and ill get back soon.
as for your question: The cylinder cuts out maybe a minute or two sooner if you are riding it. thats what makes me think it IS heat related.
i will go see what it does when i pull the choke after failure.
as for your question: The cylinder cuts out maybe a minute or two sooner if you are riding it. thats what makes me think it IS heat related.
i will go see what it does when i pull the choke after failure.
hello there!! i am back up and running!! me and my buddy that owns a bike shop did some more tests.. and found STILL that the stator was throwing some bad ohms when the bike cylinder failed. we went ahead and got the stator in and put it on... 400 miles later still no failure!! thats all that we changed so it had to be the problem!!
i STILL dont understand why the stator was breaking down at temp.
can anyone fill me in on this? ( the bike mechanic had never even seen one go bad... but that doesnt mean much to me. I would like to hear it from the superhawk guys )
i STILL dont understand why the stator was breaking down at temp.
can anyone fill me in on this? ( the bike mechanic had never even seen one go bad... but that doesnt mean much to me. I would like to hear it from the superhawk guys )
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