Storage
05-02-2007, 04:17 PM
#1
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Superstock
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 266
Storage
I'm deploying to Iraq again shortly and just wanted to make sure I've got all my bases covered with the storage of my S'hawk. Fuel's drained out, battery unhooked and rigged to a float charger so far. I heard something about removing the tires and storing those as well, but how and why? If there's anything else I've missed (and I have no doubt there is), let me know.
05-02-2007, 04:24 PM
#2
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SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 2,455
To be perfectly honest I never do anything to mine except unhook the battery. People will rag on me for it but it's never failed me before. I'm willing to spend a few minutes cleaning the carbs when I get home. It makes me look at the bike a little harder anyway. I've never done anything with the tires and they are ok. Just check pressure and look for dry rot when you get home, it'll be ok.
05-02-2007, 04:28 PM
#3
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MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leander TX!!
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I'm deploying to Iraq again shortly and just wanted to make sure I've got all my bases covered with the storage of my S'hawk. Fuel's drained out, battery unhooked and rigged to a float charger so far. I heard something about removing the tires and storing those as well, but how and why? If there's anything else I've missed (and I have no doubt there is), let me know.
05-02-2007, 04:44 PM
#4
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MotoGP
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 4,138
Stands are about as $$ as a new set of tires, right? Stands are safer for storage while you're gone and things move around in the garage but I would let the tires rot and worry about it later.
05-02-2007, 04:57 PM
#5
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Back Marker
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 120
another tip I've read is don't cover your bike with a sheet or other such cloth. It'll draw moisture after time and wreak havoc on your paint. a motorcycle cover that sits up off of your paint is best for long term storage.
05-02-2007, 09:16 PM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Texas
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Is the fuel drained out of both the carbs and the tank? In a humid environment such as Oregon, I'd keep the tank completely full with fuel stablizer added but drain the carbs. Rust is worse than bad gas in a tank.
Drain and refill the tank when you get back.
Drain and refill the tank when you get back.
05-02-2007, 09:19 PM
#7
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Superstock
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 266
Ya, I had pulled the carb and dried it out thoroughly, can't say that I did more then drain the tank though. You think just refilling the tank and adding the stabilizer would work better?
05-02-2007, 09:23 PM
#8
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SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
I'm deploying to Iraq again shortly and just wanted to make sure I've got all my bases covered with the storage of my S'hawk. Fuel's drained out, battery unhooked and rigged to a float charger so far. I heard something about removing the tires and storing those as well, but how and why? If there's anything else I've missed (and I have no doubt there is), let me know.
Thank you for your service to our country!
05-02-2007, 09:29 PM
#9
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MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
My storage routine is based on 30 or so years of riding, and 21 years of deployments (deployed right now, SH is in my shop stored)
Metal tank bikes like the SH do not get drained, Because of rust.. If you do decide to rain it.. Fog the inside with fogging oil (see a boat supply shop). Otherwise fill the tank to the top with race gas spiked with fuel stabilizer , run the bike till you know the carbs are full of this mix.(I use STABIL) Why race gas? It is more stable, less additives that tend to varnish up, and when you get back for EML, it will run just fine.. If you use pump gas and Stabil,,before you ride, drain the gas first, and add fresh.
Add a battery tender to you bike, use the pig tail , install, and then just plug in the tender..No need to disconect the battery as long as the tender is pluged in. (I've been using a Battery Tender Jr. for all my bikes and other battery started equipment for years, Cheap, and the tenders last) Back on EML, unplug the tender, go ride, Done riding, pug it back in.
Clean the bike, and polish/wax the painted surfaces. I give the aluminum surfaces a spray of light silicone
Change the oil the day you put it in storage.. If your going to have someone start it while your gone,, make sure at the least it comes up to full operating temp. Better that it just sits on a battery tender, but, some insist on weekly/monthly starting.
If you have pit stands, use um. As long as it is stored inside, the tires will be fine in any case. As I only get a few months or less riding from a set of tires,,, the little bit of hardening they do form sitting 6~15 months means little to me. I just rode mine while on EML, the tires will get replaced when I get home from this tour.
Depending on where you will store the bike, you might consider removing the plugs and fogging the cylinders. I really believe it is not needed for any thing less then a year so in a non salt water type environment.
Keep the bike out of sun light as much as you can, and in as temp stable area as you can. I avoid covers as they can trap moisture, as well as scratch the bike while they flap and rub the bike over the months of storage, collecting dust and other abrasives. I just let mine collect dust… it sits gentle on the bike until I get home, then gets washed off before I do anything else .
When you come home to ride, check fluids, are pressure, wash the bike and go ride. It’s work very well for me over the years.
Metal tank bikes like the SH do not get drained, Because of rust.. If you do decide to rain it.. Fog the inside with fogging oil (see a boat supply shop). Otherwise fill the tank to the top with race gas spiked with fuel stabilizer , run the bike till you know the carbs are full of this mix.(I use STABIL) Why race gas? It is more stable, less additives that tend to varnish up, and when you get back for EML, it will run just fine.. If you use pump gas and Stabil,,before you ride, drain the gas first, and add fresh.
Add a battery tender to you bike, use the pig tail , install, and then just plug in the tender..No need to disconect the battery as long as the tender is pluged in. (I've been using a Battery Tender Jr. for all my bikes and other battery started equipment for years, Cheap, and the tenders last) Back on EML, unplug the tender, go ride, Done riding, pug it back in.
Clean the bike, and polish/wax the painted surfaces. I give the aluminum surfaces a spray of light silicone
Change the oil the day you put it in storage.. If your going to have someone start it while your gone,, make sure at the least it comes up to full operating temp. Better that it just sits on a battery tender, but, some insist on weekly/monthly starting.
If you have pit stands, use um. As long as it is stored inside, the tires will be fine in any case. As I only get a few months or less riding from a set of tires,,, the little bit of hardening they do form sitting 6~15 months means little to me. I just rode mine while on EML, the tires will get replaced when I get home from this tour.
Depending on where you will store the bike, you might consider removing the plugs and fogging the cylinders. I really believe it is not needed for any thing less then a year so in a non salt water type environment.
Keep the bike out of sun light as much as you can, and in as temp stable area as you can. I avoid covers as they can trap moisture, as well as scratch the bike while they flap and rub the bike over the months of storage, collecting dust and other abrasives. I just let mine collect dust… it sits gentle on the bike until I get home, then gets washed off before I do anything else .
When you come home to ride, check fluids, are pressure, wash the bike and go ride. It’s work very well for me over the years.
05-02-2007, 09:38 PM
#10
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MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
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