Steering head bearings (wow!)
03-27-2007, 01:55 PM
#1
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Steering head bearings (wow!)
Ok, so after the steering head bearings loosened up for the second time, I figured they're just trashed. Time for new ones, and I'll be damned if I'm putting the stock ball-bearing sets back in. allballsracing.com hooked me up with a set of tapered needle bearings, and WHOA! Apparently the bearings were bad enough that I had some slop in the front end I had gotten used to. After installing the new bearings this weekend, I'm thoroughly amazed. The thing corners like it's on rails, and is much more responsive on turn-in.
Just thought I'd share. If you think you've got some creep in the front end under braking, might want to check those bearings. I'm glad I did!
Nothing else to see here, move along!
Just thought I'd share. If you think you've got some creep in the front end under braking, might want to check those bearings. I'm glad I did!
Nothing else to see here, move along!
03-27-2007, 06:46 PM
#3
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This is another one of those things that people are skeptical about until they try it. It seems like it shouldn't make that much of a difference, but it does. You want flex in certain parts of the motorcycle, the steering head area is not one of them.
03-28-2007, 02:27 AM
#5
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22-1020 if he needs the stock numbers. SlowHAWK will have to help if you need the ones to fit the RC front end. You can also check on their website for the distributor cross-reference for that part, if you want to order from someone else (tucker rocky, parts unlimited, etc). Cheers!
03-28-2007, 10:11 AM
#8
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I called their 1-800 line when I ordered, told the rep what I was doing swap wise, and he checked both bikes to isure they would work.... I used a 929 lower triple, so the part number KC listed is what I guess I have. Not sure what the RC lower uses.
J.
J.
03-28-2007, 10:13 AM
#9
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For the RC51 swap there is a difference between early and late so be sure you know which triple you have and order correctly (early years). Replace races and bearings - I had to take mine to the shop - couldn't get the lower race off using the traditional method.
bill
bill
03-28-2007, 10:13 AM
#10
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Quick question....
I haven't put the new lower bearing onto the stem yet, as I just finished powder coating the triple.... any chance I can install the lower bearing with a piece of pipe (correctly sized) and a deadblow hammer... or do I need a machine shop to press it on the stem?
J.
I haven't put the new lower bearing onto the stem yet, as I just finished powder coating the triple.... any chance I can install the lower bearing with a piece of pipe (correctly sized) and a deadblow hammer... or do I need a machine shop to press it on the stem?
J.
03-28-2007, 11:11 AM
#12
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Quick question....
I haven't put the new lower bearing onto the stem yet, as I just finished powder coating the triple.... any chance I can install the lower bearing with a piece of pipe (correctly sized) and a deadblow hammer... or do I need a machine shop to press it on the stem?
J.
I haven't put the new lower bearing onto the stem yet, as I just finished powder coating the triple.... any chance I can install the lower bearing with a piece of pipe (correctly sized) and a deadblow hammer... or do I need a machine shop to press it on the stem?
J.
03-28-2007, 01:37 PM
#14
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For my swap I am using the 929 lower.... (and I was able to get the old race off without alot of trouble)...
For the upper, I have both a 929/954 and a RC-51... I wanted the flexibilty to adjust the ride height (move the forks up or down a bit) and bar height flexibility knowing the RC forks are a tiny bit shorter. I'm hoping to take my final measurements with the original front end back on this weekend, then swap the steering head bearings and bolt up the RC stuff.
The swap is going ultra slow do to "fixing and powdercoating" most of the items I take off (and find grungy along the way)... and the new born/wife factor!!! I'm lucky if I get 2-3 hours a week on the project.
J.
For the upper, I have both a 929/954 and a RC-51... I wanted the flexibilty to adjust the ride height (move the forks up or down a bit) and bar height flexibility knowing the RC forks are a tiny bit shorter. I'm hoping to take my final measurements with the original front end back on this weekend, then swap the steering head bearings and bolt up the RC stuff.
The swap is going ultra slow do to "fixing and powdercoating" most of the items I take off (and find grungy along the way)... and the new born/wife factor!!! I'm lucky if I get 2-3 hours a week on the project.
J.
03-28-2007, 06:47 PM
#15
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I used the old ball-bearing race, turned upside down, along with a correct fitting pipe. Of course that means the old bearing is about 3/4 seated on the stem, but it clears the inside of the steering neck and the upper race, so I figured I'd just leave it and not risk damaging the new bearings.
03-28-2007, 07:13 PM
#16
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Good idea Galaxie.... I actually machined the old race I took off a bit to slide on and off the triples I've been swapping to do measurements and the such... so that piece should be perfect to do the job.
J.
J.
03-30-2007, 06:09 AM
#17
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Can anyone tell me the diameter of the upper bearing? I ordered the bearings from AllBalls as well for my RC51 forks swap, but ordered the SP2 version while I have the SP1 steerer... DUH! I would like to be able to just get the upper bearing.
05-10-2007, 05:14 AM
#18
The Hypno-Toad
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I have a question on the subject, so I thought I would just piggy back on this thread.
With the tourque spec for the steering head nut, is that meant to be measured with the front end off the ground, or can I just use my front stand under the steering head?
If I am trying to adjust this do I need the clip ons and the top triple off? What about the forks? I wouldn't bother asking, but it isn't very clear from the service manual. Any input is appreciated. Please hurry, my steering head is starting to scare me.
Thanks,
Kendrick
With the tourque spec for the steering head nut, is that meant to be measured with the front end off the ground, or can I just use my front stand under the steering head?
If I am trying to adjust this do I need the clip ons and the top triple off? What about the forks? I wouldn't bother asking, but it isn't very clear from the service manual. Any input is appreciated. Please hurry, my steering head is starting to scare me.
Thanks,
Kendrick
05-10-2007, 12:37 PM
#20
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Kendrick,
The intent of the manual is to raise the front end by the frame with straps or the like. You need to be able to move the front end back and forth freely to ensure the bearings are not too tight (or loose for that matter). Too loose will beat the new bearings to oblivion. Too tight will cause weaving and strange handling woes.
The intent of the manual is to raise the front end by the frame with straps or the like. You need to be able to move the front end back and forth freely to ensure the bearings are not too tight (or loose for that matter). Too loose will beat the new bearings to oblivion. Too tight will cause weaving and strange handling woes.
02-14-2009, 09:20 PM
#21
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Squid
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Hey all,
First post.
I am in the process of changing the head bearings on my 99 VTR. I purchased the AllBalls bearings that are spoken about earlier.
Forgive me if this is obvious, it has been much too cold outside to get my lazy *** motivated to go inspect.
The lower factory bearings did not have an outer race (unless it is still in the stem). My understanding (by the looks of the FSM) was that the factory bearings rode in a permanent race within the stem. The AllBalls does have a full set of inner race, bearings and outer race for the lower end.
I assume I need to use the outer race with the AllBalls since they are tapered and the factory bearings were not.
Any experience with this? Anything to look out for? Is the outer race still in the bike and I am an idiot? Will the new outer race just slide in, or will it need to be hammered/pressed?
Thanks.
First post.
I am in the process of changing the head bearings on my 99 VTR. I purchased the AllBalls bearings that are spoken about earlier.
Forgive me if this is obvious, it has been much too cold outside to get my lazy *** motivated to go inspect.
The lower factory bearings did not have an outer race (unless it is still in the stem). My understanding (by the looks of the FSM) was that the factory bearings rode in a permanent race within the stem. The AllBalls does have a full set of inner race, bearings and outer race for the lower end.
I assume I need to use the outer race with the AllBalls since they are tapered and the factory bearings were not.
Any experience with this? Anything to look out for? Is the outer race still in the bike and I am an idiot? Will the new outer race just slide in, or will it need to be hammered/pressed?
Thanks.
02-15-2009, 05:20 AM
#22
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The bottom bearing is pressed on the steering stem. It rides on the lower race which is pressed into the bottom of the steering head on the frame. The upper bearing slips around the upper part of the steering stem and rides in the race pressed into the upper part of the steering head. It's all held together with a dust cover, an integral castle nut/washer and a locking castle nut. Then the upper triple goes on top of that, followed by the chrome nut on top.
ALWAYS tighten the top nut prior to tightening the upper clamps around the fork tubes.
ALWAYS tighten the top nut prior to tightening the upper clamps around the fork tubes.
02-15-2009, 06:33 AM
#23
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Hey all,
First post.
I am in the process of changing the head bearings on my 99 VTR. I purchased the AllBalls bearings that are spoken about earlier.
Forgive me if this is obvious, it has been much too cold outside to get my lazy *** motivated to go inspect.
The lower factory bearings did not have an outer race (unless it is still in the stem). My understanding (by the looks of the FSM) was that the factory bearings rode in a permanent race within the stem. The AllBalls does have a full set of inner race, bearings and outer race for the lower end.
I assume I need to use the outer race with the AllBalls since they are tapered and the factory bearings were not.
Any experience with this? Anything to look out for? Is the outer race still in the bike and I am an idiot? Will the new outer race just slide in, or will it need to be hammered/pressed?
Thanks.
First post.
I am in the process of changing the head bearings on my 99 VTR. I purchased the AllBalls bearings that are spoken about earlier.
Forgive me if this is obvious, it has been much too cold outside to get my lazy *** motivated to go inspect.
The lower factory bearings did not have an outer race (unless it is still in the stem). My understanding (by the looks of the FSM) was that the factory bearings rode in a permanent race within the stem. The AllBalls does have a full set of inner race, bearings and outer race for the lower end.
I assume I need to use the outer race with the AllBalls since they are tapered and the factory bearings were not.
Any experience with this? Anything to look out for? Is the outer race still in the bike and I am an idiot? Will the new outer race just slide in, or will it need to be hammered/pressed?
Thanks.
It's not hard, but helps if you have a 4lb dead blow hammer and the bike strapped up, as if it's just on a jack when you starting using the hammer, you might have problems!!!
J.
02-15-2009, 09:10 AM
#24
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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to get the race on/off the stem:
i used my dremel with a cutting wheel to make 1 cut in the old race - used a screwdriver to open ( expand ) it and slide it off.
stem in the freezer and put the new race in boiling water.
seat the new race with the old one. once fully seated use your screwdriver again to remove the old one.
tim
i used my dremel with a cutting wheel to make 1 cut in the old race - used a screwdriver to open ( expand ) it and slide it off.
stem in the freezer and put the new race in boiling water.
seat the new race with the old one. once fully seated use your screwdriver again to remove the old one.
tim
02-15-2009, 10:26 AM
#25
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to get the race on/off the stem:
i used my dremel with a cutting wheel to make 1 cut in the old race - used a screwdriver to open ( expand ) it and slide it off.
stem in the freezer and put the new race in boiling water.
seat the new race with the old one. once fully seated use your screwdriver again to remove the old one.
tim
i used my dremel with a cutting wheel to make 1 cut in the old race - used a screwdriver to open ( expand ) it and slide it off.
stem in the freezer and put the new race in boiling water.
seat the new race with the old one. once fully seated use your screwdriver again to remove the old one.
tim
+1. I also heated the neck of the bike with a blow dryer and put the outer races in the freezer. Makes installing the outer races into the neck a lot easier. Use the old race turned upside down and a correct size socket to drive them home.
10-08-2009, 08:49 PM
#27
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+1 for All *****... went through 3 different brands of fork seals on my CR250R dirtbike. all 3 leaked within a year. Ordered the all ***** set and 2 years later i sold the bike and it still wasnt leaking.
10-09-2009, 10:06 AM
#28
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Leaking? Do mean the dust seal? The grease used on the bearings is so thick that it doesn't 'leak' out, so I'm confused.
