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Spools WITHOUT Welding???

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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 03:51 PM
  #31  
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can you post pics of your t-rex set up?
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 06:15 PM
  #32  
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why couldnt' you just drill a hole in the bottom of the swingarm, and put a pin sticking up to catch it in your swingarm stand. nothing to see, but the bike can't slip on the stand.
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 07:43 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by justscoutin
why couldnt' you just drill a hole in the bottom of the swingarm, and put a pin sticking up to catch it in your swingarm stand. nothing to see, but the bike can't slip on the stand.
now that sounds like a reasonable suggestion. I was thinking that it might be easier to modify your stand instead of messing with your swingarm, but I believe some probably want to install spools. Weld a piece on or take it to a welder or fab your own clamp or bracket onto your rear stand to securely grasp the swingarm.
Old May 2, 2009 | 07:33 PM
  #34  
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my rc51 has a little hole on the underneath of the sa. my guess is that it's for water to drain out.

i'm going to look into the axle rod deal. my main fear is when washing the bike and chain i'm terrified the bike will fall, like it did last fall. so, if i can use the axle rod solution i will eliminate 99.9% of my worry and botheration.

as for wheel removal, that is not often. when i need a new tire(long time - i'm on road 2s) i'll use the slip & slide stand with the front stand for that job.

for chain adjusting, i will continue to do that on the kick stand.

when using the slip & slide stands, use a front stand, or tie the front brake lever. if that front wheel doesn't roll the rear stand will be more stable, but it will never be as good as spools.
Old May 3, 2009 | 05:08 PM
  #35  
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i went to my work bench and scrounged up a couple old bolts. i shoved them in the rc's hollow axle. they were too small, loose and sloppy in the hole, but i decided to move forward anyway. i carefully tried the stand. slowly i lifted the bike up on it. shook the bike and it was solid. i was confident enough to start the bike, put it in first gear and clean the chain. i would say it's 99% better than the slip & slide stand i have. i wonder how much better they will be with a better fitting stud in the axle.

i looked at the hawk and noticed the holes in the axle are much smaller and my bolts wont fit. so, i'm going to bring the bikes to a specialty fastener store like fastenall. i'll do some some trial and error untill i have the right stuff to set up the best stud/spools i can.
Old May 4, 2009 | 06:56 AM
  #36  
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If I were you 'finepooch' I wouldn't clean any chain with the engine running in gear on any bike- even if it had a centerstand. If you've grown attatched to those 10 digits it's much safer to clean 6 to 10" of chain with a paintbrush, a pan of kerosene, and a bunch of newspapers under the chain run- with the ignition off.
Old May 4, 2009 | 08:03 AM
  #37  
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i've thought about the potential dangers of running the chain to clean it. i use a toothbrush and never come close to the entrance of the sprocket. my fingers are not in danger.
thanks for the advise though.
Old May 4, 2009 | 09:07 AM
  #38  
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I have just been using a piece of 5/16" all thread and a set of spools, run the all thread right thru the axle and a spool on each side with a nut. Works great for chain cleaning/lubing and wheel cleaning. Plenty strong enough to support bike. Just got to remember to take it off before a ride or you'll lose a spool(like I did once) or all of it if a nut backs off, or you could just use lock nuts and leave it on.
Old May 4, 2009 | 05:30 PM
  #39  
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those bolts i used on the rc51, i tried them in my hawk. the small side was close, so i did some bench grinding work and trimmed the diameter of the bolt down some. the bolt then slid in nice and snug. unfortunately the other side was sloppy

got the stand. the rc51's sa is much wider and the bolts were out far enough that i will have to buy another, more narrow stand. i tried this set up. cleaned and lubed the chain. polished the rear wheel. worked well.

i think the ultimate will be using a full threaded rod, 12mm. taper down one side to fit through the narrow side.
Old May 4, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #40  
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You could possibly get some electrical insulation tape (or something similar) and just wrap about 5 or 6 layers onto the stand paddles.
Old May 16, 2009 | 03:12 PM
  #41  
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well. i was at princess auto today looking for axle bolts or spools for my rc51. low and behold i stumbled across a jem called a "toplink pin". 3/4" size slip right into the large side of the axle. unfortunately i could not get a 1/2" for the small side of the axle. does anyone know where i could find one? for lack of the 1/2" toplink pin i got a 1/2" bolt.
as for sizes for the hawk, i dunno. anybody know where there is a selection of sizes of toplink pins?

Last edited by finepooch; May 16, 2009 at 03:16 PM.
Old May 21, 2009 | 04:54 PM
  #42  
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This is the set-up I was using. just a set of spools, piece of 5/16" all thread & 3 5/16 nuts. Double nutted one side, put spool on, slide thru axle, put other spool on and last nut, use stand.
Just remember to take it off before going out if you only use 1 nut hand tight on last side. That's why there is only 1 spool left, went out the other day and totally forgot about it and didn't know it untill I pulled up to insurance office and noticed rod and spool hanging out about a foot. Other spool and nut were somewhere between there and home. But it did work great and was a simple fix.
Attached Thumbnails Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5170.jpg   Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5171.jpg   Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5172.jpg  
Old May 21, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #43  
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And then since I didn't have but 1 spool left to fit that rod the length I had it cut to I went ahead and did the SA drilled option. So for the skeptics of the drilling method I'll let you know if I have any problems. I also drilled alll the way thru both sides and sandwiched the SA instead on just just using something like a rivnut. Better ? Worse? who know's? guess I'll find out. Besides I got a extra SA if for some reason I don't like this way at any time.
Pretty simple, I used 5/16" carriage bolts for the clearance issue between SA and sprocket/rotor bracket . Went as low and as far back as I thought was good(needed another 1/8" back) as you can see from the one pic I had to dremel a dimple in the one carriage bolt head to clear the sprocket bolt, rotor bracket cleared easily. Another reason why I used carriage bolts as regular bolts would not have worked at all unless they were put halfway up the SA toward the front. But other than that they work great and are very sturdy with no flex what soever when lifting bike. I might get some other spools and replace these and do away with the black slider look but that's what was on the bench at the time so that's what it got. And if I ever to need to give someone a tow I have a place to hook the chains now.
Anyhow I like them!!
Attached Thumbnails Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5160.jpg   Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5161.jpg   Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5163.jpg   Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5164.jpg   Spools WITHOUT Welding???-dscn5176.jpg  

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