Running engine w/ fuel tank off
11-23-2009, 08:22 PM
#1
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Running engine w/ fuel tank off
Hey Everyone,
I've noticed a number of posts talking about running the engine with the fuel tank off either w/ an auxiliary fuel tank or w/ the comment "there is enough fuel in the float bowls to last a little while..."
I just wanted to comment that I'm not sure why people disconnect the tank in the first place. I don't disconnect my tank unless I actually need to take the carbs *out*. The bike comes with a U-shaped tool that looks like a double-ended hex wrench, but it is actually a fuel tank lifter. The long end goes in the frame, and the short end goes through the tank where the rear tank bolt came out.
I unbolt the front & rear, lift the rear up and put it on this tool, and then I put the seat back and flip the tank up vertical and let it rest on the seat. The drain is at the back, which becomes the bottom in this position, so as long as I have more than 1/2 gal of fuel, I can run the engine right off the tank even with the airbox out. Not that I make a habit of doing so, my point here is that you can save yourself a lot of work and mess by not disconnecting the tank most of the time. I shimmed my carbs and did my TPS mod w/out disconnecting the tank.
Sometimes I do strap the tank vertical w/ a shock cord from the lip to one of the tail-lights to make sure it doesn't fall. But actually I bought a heavy-duty square u-bolt from the hardware store that is threaded, and now I use that w/ a nut on each end, and I don't even need the shock cord, it is totally solid and stable on the U-bolt, even when on the side stand.
I've noticed a number of posts talking about running the engine with the fuel tank off either w/ an auxiliary fuel tank or w/ the comment "there is enough fuel in the float bowls to last a little while..."
I just wanted to comment that I'm not sure why people disconnect the tank in the first place. I don't disconnect my tank unless I actually need to take the carbs *out*. The bike comes with a U-shaped tool that looks like a double-ended hex wrench, but it is actually a fuel tank lifter. The long end goes in the frame, and the short end goes through the tank where the rear tank bolt came out.
I unbolt the front & rear, lift the rear up and put it on this tool, and then I put the seat back and flip the tank up vertical and let it rest on the seat. The drain is at the back, which becomes the bottom in this position, so as long as I have more than 1/2 gal of fuel, I can run the engine right off the tank even with the airbox out. Not that I make a habit of doing so, my point here is that you can save yourself a lot of work and mess by not disconnecting the tank most of the time. I shimmed my carbs and did my TPS mod w/out disconnecting the tank.
Sometimes I do strap the tank vertical w/ a shock cord from the lip to one of the tail-lights to make sure it doesn't fall. But actually I bought a heavy-duty square u-bolt from the hardware store that is threaded, and now I use that w/ a nut on each end, and I don't even need the shock cord, it is totally solid and stable on the U-bolt, even when on the side stand.
11-24-2009, 11:21 AM
#2
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Personally, I don't use that U shaped tool. It seems like an accidental bump of the tank could have it slide off the bike. I remove the two front bolts and just loosen the rear bolt, but leave it installed. Then use a tie down on the rear frame and a link that runs through one of the bolt holes in the front of the tank.
11-28-2009, 09:48 AM
#5
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Hey Everyone,
I just wanted to comment that I'm not sure why people disconnect the tank in the first place. I don't disconnect my tank unless I actually need to take the carbs *out*. The bike comes with a U-shaped tool that looks like a double-ended hex wrench, but it is actually a fuel tank lifter. The long end goes in the frame, and the short end goes through the tank where the rear tank bolt came out.
.
I just wanted to comment that I'm not sure why people disconnect the tank in the first place. I don't disconnect my tank unless I actually need to take the carbs *out*. The bike comes with a U-shaped tool that looks like a double-ended hex wrench, but it is actually a fuel tank lifter. The long end goes in the frame, and the short end goes through the tank where the rear tank bolt came out.
.
Hey, buddy...
If you are doing something simple like changing plugs and/or air filter, this will suffice. However, when you are doing something more in depth like carb sync, carb work or valve adjustment, it's better to take it off for a number of reasons.
1 - The tank in the way can be FRUSTRATING as hell and the time that you would spend working around the tank makes it well worth just to take the 2 minutes that it takes to remove it.
2 - When you do in-depthwork sometimes you can get sloppy in your tool-handling techniques. i'd much rather take the 2 minutes to remove the tank then spend hundereds on a new paint job.
3 - You ever seen a SuperChicken go down the street with no tank or fairings? Man, that is effing cool!
12-12-2009, 09:01 PM
#7
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Personally, I don't use that U shaped tool. It seems like an accidental bump of the tank could have it slide off the bike. I remove the two front bolts and just loosen the rear bolt, but leave it installed. Then use a tie down on the rear frame and a link that runs through one of the bolt holes in the front of the tank.
12-15-2009, 04:22 PM
#8
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Personally, I don't use that U shaped tool. It seems like an accidental bump of the tank could have it slide off the bike. I remove the two front bolts and just loosen the rear bolt, but leave it installed. Then use a tie down on the rear frame and a link that runs through one of the bolt holes in the front of the tank.
12-16-2009, 07:09 AM
#10
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as far as helping others, I believe that just posting our opinions/thoughts/ideas/knowledge has benefits well beyond what can be measured.
12-17-2009, 06:32 PM
#13
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A bungie cord doubled over (one hook through each bolt hole) works great when lifting the tank front and tying it up to rafters in the garage. Not so sure about tying it back at the subframe though... you would definitely need to put a towel or something soft between the backs of the hooks and the tank at the very least.
12-17-2009, 07:04 PM
#14
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12-17-2009, 07:04 PM
#15
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A bungie cord doubled over (one hook through each bolt hole) works great when lifting the tank front and tying it up to rafters in the garage. Not so sure about tying it back at the subframe though... you would definitely need to put a towel or something soft between the backs of the hooks and the tank at the very least.
I don't know why we keep losing the pics, but anyway a small ratchet strap works great. You have to how to hook up the strap in the ratchet so that you can do a quick release with the right hand while you hold the front with you left hand. I can explain if anyone doesn't know how.
12-17-2009, 07:24 PM
#18
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Hmmm, I see my first pic, plus the two times you posted it (total 3). Are you only having problems in this thread? I wonder if it is a setting in your User CP. Under "Edit Option", scroll down to "Thread Display Options" and see if "Show Images" is checked.
LOL, a lot of them smilies be yellow too.
12-17-2009, 07:41 PM
#23
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12-17-2009, 07:54 PM
#24
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Must have something to do with settings in Google Chrome spam settings because if I access website via internet explorer, i can see all the pics. Now i just gotta screw with that. thanks for the feedback.
12-18-2009, 05:47 AM
#26
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are the rubbers still there?
put a bolt through there from left to right with with a nylon lock nut and tighten with care and gently, relying on the lock nut and not on tightness for security.
this bolt is significant to hold tank secure, gas lines and petcock hooked just under the rear, and for ease of access as pictures above show unless you like doing extra work and working on things difficult to see and access.
12-18-2009, 06:07 PM
#27
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I use one of these since I have a few inna garage. I put the U around one of the holes where the tank bolts to the frame. Then feed the screw from the top and tighten it. That is just one way. You could probably use an eye bolt with a nut, or maybe a piece of rope. As Angry mentioned, you'll want something to protect the tank from scuffing. I used a towel that you can see in the photo. Another thing to keep in mind is not putting too much tension on the tie-down. You don't want to tweak the tank tang.
12-18-2009, 08:45 PM
#28
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Seriously, i had to uninstall google chrome and reinstall to see that beautiful yellow chicken. I love yellow cause it matches the color of my teeth and that streak down the middle of my back.
Actually, I had my '84 Autocar painted that color before yellow was popular and when i get the hawk painted, it will be yellow.
12-18-2009, 10:48 PM
#29
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Glad you found the problem. Otherwise, how is Chrome?
Last edited by Gregw; 12-18-2009 at 10:52 PM.
12-19-2009, 07:41 AM
#30
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Chrome-----I am a fan of google because it's a user friendly browser for the techno challenged. check out the link below.
http://www.drostdesigns.com/google-c...fits-and-uses/
