Replacement R/R
#1
Replacement R/R
Hello to all of the people on here that post such great knowledge. It helps newbies like me out sooo much. I noticed a post about replacing the r/r on the '98 hawk that I have with a R1/R6 yamaha model, but what year is acceptable to use? Thanks in advance for teh help as I am sure somebody knows this. Also if I cannot find one of those RR's what other kinds would be acceptable to use. I saw an electrosport version that looks a bit better than the stock item, but who knows it is still like $100 not including shipping. It is time though. Headlight dims and gets brighter, fuel guage light went out, radiator fan fuse blown, and the $22 silver star high beam blew. I think its time. Any advice?
#2
I replaced my '98 r/r with a r/r from a 2006 R6. These two sites show you how it is done. Get some spade connectors and you are good to go. I would solder all the connections between the female spade connectors and the male connectors on the r/r for a good connection. I got my R6 r/r on ebay for $30.
http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/honda/reg_replace.html
http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/honda/reg_replace.html
#3
the r6/r1 r/r is definitely the best one to go with. i made the swap a couple months ago and it is very easy. i didnt even bother soldering the connections, i just crimped them. i know an electrical engineer at out nuclear power plant here, and he said there's no point in doing it. if you want to be safe though, there's no harm in it.
#4
the r6/r1 r/r is definitely the best one to go with. i made the swap a couple months ago and it is very easy. i didnt even bother soldering the connections, i just crimped them. i know an electrical engineer at out nuclear power plant here, and he said there's no point in doing it. if you want to be safe though, there's no harm in it.
Not likely to happen in a controlled environment at a nuclear plant... but not at all unlikely on a bike subjected to the weather...
#5
The original plug that plugs into the r/r is not very tight allowing a buildup of heat, ultimately causing the plug to fry. Moisture getting in there, corroding a bit will compound that. The plug bewteen the r/r and stator, under the seat, is another hot spot. There is quite a bit of amps flowing through these wires.
#7
soldering wire connections
The point of soldering is that you create a solid core of the wire and solder instead of multiple strands where moisture can seep in and cause corrosion... That small buildup of corrosion can cause a bad connection or in worst case a short...
Not likely to happen in a controlled environment at a nuclear plant... but not at all unlikely on a bike subjected to the weather...
Not likely to happen in a controlled environment at a nuclear plant... but not at all unlikely on a bike subjected to the weather...
Sorry for reviving an old thread. Just picked up a 1987 VFR700F2.
New Battery and R/R was installed by PO.
After my first long ride(about 250 miles) I was going over the bike and noticed
that the connector from the Stator to R/R was fried on two connectors.
Thought of getting a new connector but came upon posts to solder it
instead. The spades were definately corroded and a mess. Looks like
the PO had the R/R and battery changed but did not check the connectors.
Thanks Tweety for the info on soldering the connections vs. crimp and spades. I did not have any problems with shorting or not starting.
I was lucky to catch it before any problem came up.
Will have to go over all the wiring now also to check(just in case).
Been on the VFRWorld site for the past few weeks. See a few familiar
members there also. Got some good info from them but I had to do a
search on our trusty site to comfirm. Love our site!!!
P.S. the VFR was a pretty fun ride-love the gear driven cams
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