Hi guys, already spent a couple hours running several searches here but this question wasn't answered.

I'm a final year student in an industrial design course and just bought a VTR so I could use the engine in my build. Sometime this week (or next), I'm planning to remove the engine to get measurements for building a frame jig. Once that's done the engine goes back into the frame again temporarily (because I want to ride it) until August or later when the chassis building starts.

The last engine I've ever removed was my NSR250 almost 8 years ago so I'm rather rusty at this.

Any advice?
The search turned up something about a unique nut/bolt remover. Anyone have pics?

 

The service Manual should have all you need:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=11365

 

Do you have a motorcycle lift of somthing to secure the front end?

 

A working link! Thanks! Threads I saw all linked to a lost thread on the bikechatforums.

 

Nope. Will be building everything from ground up, stands, jigs, etc.

 

you'll need some special wrenches or modified sockets (search) to remove the engine mounting bolts. Having a hoist or rafters you can tie to, as mentioned to secure the frame is needed.

 

All I can say is I hope you're not building a chopper or some other godawful bastardized thing out of the Super Hawk.

 

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...71/Group/FRAME

I can't find the castle head nut sockets on Ron Ayers, but if you look at the frame in the above link it looks like there's 3; 1 @ 22mm & 2 @ 20mm, so you could get that sized sockets and grind them down to fit...

 

http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/red_vtr.htm

found this too

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Slott...motiveQ5fTools

This approach might work too...

 

Perfect! Going to try just that! Thanks!

 

Actually I'm building a UJM with variable geometry ala RSV4 chassis. The idea is simple, 1 'base' machine that is easily modifiable between racer, tourer and fighter without the need to cut and weld. Of course, a UJM actually requires an il4, but the Vtwin just has more engine character, and this is justifiable because motorcycles are more of an emotional purchase compared to other typical industrial products like say, a toaster.

 

My method for disassembly was to make an engine stand that fitted the engine at its height off the ground while still in the frame. I then bolted it on, and removed all the other bits from the engine, leaving it behind.

No need for suspending the frame when doing this.

 

shayne, would you happen to have any pics of that stand?

 

Excellent. A UJM is perfect and the Super Hawk engine really suits it.
I don't think I could stand to see yet another variation on the "cruiser" or chopper theme. Been done a zillion times. They are cliches.

 

No pics, which is just as well!!! Too rough!!!

All I did was put the bike on a rear stand, and then put blocks under the sump. I then used some steel I had lying about to make up a stay between the front cylinder head and the ground. This stopped it rolling forward or side to side when the front and rear suspension was removed.

When it came time for re-assembly I just put the motor back on the blocks and the support stay, and then bolted the frame and suspension back onto it.

It was that simple.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I think this one might fit the 22mm castle...from what I can find it's around 21mm.

 

This may be the best solution for both castle head frame bolt locking nuts:
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...2_00934299000P

Sears has a set for <$30 that will fit both with little to no modifications...

 

A Honda dealership can order them for you. then you can spend your time making your bike run, rather than trying to kluge some kind of tool from a bunch of crap you have lying around.

Maybe it's just me...

 

LOL! I agree, but I called the stealer just now and they didn't get a hit on the part numbers

 

Managed to contact this guy, he already sold his VTR so he's giving me the tool. I'm finally going to take the engine off now, reading the manual it says I have to drain the cooling system.

As long as it isn't disgusting or dirty, can I re-use the coolant?
I suspect the coolant inside should be new so dumping it seems like a waste.

 

I would change it unless you had recently done so.

 

see post #24 of this thread for an another option:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=22476

 

I went through the manual several times and devised my own steps to strip the engine. First of all, I'm leaving the exhaust intact because it's too much of a bother getting new gaskets and all that, and also because I don't have the asterisk driver for the pipe band bolt. It's very badly rusted and will not be easy to remove.

Next, I unplugged the wire harness from everything I could see and removed the sub frame. I've untied all the cable ties so the harness will come off together with the frame but the other wires/cables/tubes will not.

I took out the air box and drained the radiators, I didn't measure but it looks like around 2 litres of coolant came out. I didn't want to drain the oil so the oil cooler is still connected but unbolted from the mount.

Some questions.




Are these parts a part of the air box?
I'm trying to find out how the air is routed but there doesn't seem to be any kind of ducting in there.


I suppose I need a new gasket here?


This is the mid mounting bolt, I already removed all 3 castle nuts and also removed the 2 bolts in the middle from both sides. I'm not sure how to remove this, do I need to? I'm assuming it's mounted because it's threaded though on the outside. I don't have a large enough allen key either so I couldn't find out. The manual didn't go into specifics so I'm just guessing. I can't remove the other 2 bolts, I need someone to help me hold the other side otherwise it just spins on the spot.

 

The idea behind that plastic shield is to make an airpocket that isn't directly in the wind, and have the airbox draw from that... Makes for less actual power, but a lot easier dynamics and tuning...

Yes, a new gasket is needed...

And yes, you need a large allen key...

 

You can make large allen sockets by welding a bolt with the proper sized head (12mm or 14mm, whatever...) into a socket. The shaft of the bolt goes into the opening of the socket - a cheap one with the proper sized opening will do. Does this make sense? JB

 

Makes perfect sense to me. That's how I made mine for my old Kaw Connie when I wanted to remove the front axle. Better to fabricate than spending a fortune on a "specialty" item/tool .

Keep us posted on your progress, Heng47! You're putting something on a thread that someone will definitely be able to use at a later time.