+1 you'd be better off with OEM, I would not trust the warranty, even if it's for real, it will not cover other components if the at fault.
maybe you should look again at MOSFET after all, it's not really a hassle, it maybe looks a little scary at first, but it is an easy mod.

 

I have the R/R form the earlier mod without the mosfet it was just a few wires to change and was all done in less than 30 min $20 and shipping and it is yours. Not as good as Mosfet but better thank stock I just switched mine just because I was doing all kinds of wiring stuff.

 

I felt the same about just plug and go but a couple of times I have bought stuff on ebay that was sub standard (bought a lot of good stuff too) so I wanted to buy a VR/R from a company that would stand behind it.
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/results

Here's what Ricks Motor Sports electrics offers for my 2003 VTR1000F3 Superhawk. Plug in your bikes year to see if it is any different.

I bought the VR/R and the "connection block" kit. Then being lazy by nature but also **** about detail work on my bike rather than cutting the stock wires and re-crimping/soldering them I took an Xacto knife with a new blade and some needle nose pliers and cut the stock connetor block or plug apart (it's rather soft plastic especially if you slice thru the thin areas) and then pushed the stock wires with their connectors intact into the new Rick's plug. If a couple of them dont want to go into the new plug just dress the edges a bit with a fine file and they will slide right in. After pushing the plug with wires installed into the new VR/R until it clicks into place you can take a small flat blade screw driver and push on the exposed back end of each individual wire's brass connector to be sure it is seated all the way. Simple bolt on without disturbing your stock wiring harness.

 

Oh and by the way the Rick's VR/R bolts right into the stock Superhawk mounting holes but has MUCH BIGGER cooling fins on it than the Honda OEM VR/R.

 

And yet still the outdated, failure proven design

Whatever works for each rider... But if you're going to turn a wrench, might as well make it worthwhile and install the better option

 

I've ridden 10 years on the OEM VR/R without incidence and just installed the Rocl's one on a whim, yes indeed, whatever works for each rider.....

 

You know... Not only is the cooling fins almost the same size as the stock one... 4 mm each way is not "much larger", considering it's an actual increase of 13% surface area, vs OEM, and less than 10% thermal mass... And that makes a difference of a whole 0.4% effective increase of thermal transmisson on a part that reaches 80C... That's low enough that it's not actually a measurable difference unless you for example use a thermal imaging machine to measure it... (not sure that can pick up the difference either)

But also brand new out of the box, the Rick's R/R varied from 13.2V to 14.9V across the rev range, with no charge voltage at all on idle... 14.9V isn't going to cause failure... But it's very close to 15V+, which is a very, very, very bad thing... And that's too close for comfort for me...

A stock, OEM one if brand new and working properly will never, ever go above 14.7V... It will however drop low, which is bad for the battery...

So... Yeah... It doesn't really work... It left the guy stranded with a flat battery... And it's still "new", as in three months... The Mosfet one however that replaced it last night... Bought used, for less money, keeps the voltage at a nice 13.7-14.6V right where it should be...