Radiator repair sealants
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
Radiator repair questions
Has anyone used JB Weld for small radiator crack repairs? If so, how has it held up for you? My left side radiator developed a small thin crack up towards the top inner most side and now when the bike gets oh ...around 160* or so she starts spewing and spitting coolant. I have searched around on here and ebay for a used left side rad. but so far haven't had any good luck with a clean undamaged rad. or someone is only willing to sell the pair together. So I figured maybe a sealant would work since this is a small crack. Has anyone used any radiator sealants and had success? Your thoughts please....
I just caled my local Honda dealer and about passed out when they told me the quote for the left side rad. Freakin $348.15 haha!!
I just caled my local Honda dealer and about passed out when they told me the quote for the left side rad. Freakin $348.15 haha!!
Last edited by haknslash; Sep 11, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 284
From: Warren, NH
I wouldn't use it on that type of repair. It is basically a silicone. There are several differnt types of honda bond, but none that trust for that. JB might work if you can prep the area well. Welding would be my first choice. I have done a few, so it can be done if you can get to the crack.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 530
From: Central Fl.
Included in the prep work is to stop drill the crack. If you don't then vibration will cause the original crack to grow beyond the repair that you make. The radiators are thin stuff, good luck on the JB WELD fix.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
Crap didn't think about the heavy vibes of the twin. Sounds like welding or replaceing might be my only option now. I posted on my local forum for anyone with aluminum welding experience. Hopefully someone will post up on there, or I can find a good condition used one on flea bay or here.
Thanks fellas.
Thanks fellas.
2nd mouse gets the cheese
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,697
From: Beaverton, OR
I used Jb Weld on my right side radiator from to holes where the torn out electrical bracket was it has held up so far and about 7000 miles. Silver brazing, or aluminum brazing is very difficult to do yourself. Also welding the crack won't be easy because a crack is almost impossible to clean and aluminum needs to be really clean to be welded on. Your best option is silver brazing, I would recomend finding someone who has experience brazing on aluminum though. I used to weld aluminum bike frames and one of the processes we used was silver brazing on the cable stays. Its tricky because aluminum is solid and the blown away with little to no warning so if you aren't familiar with it your radiator will have a big hole instead of a crack. Good luck with the fix/hunt.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
This is promising to read then. I guess I can start from the bottom and work my way up if need be, so to speak. Try the easiest & cheapest method first and see how it holds up. If it doesn't hold up then I'll go to plan B and so on.
The crack is pretty small. Almost hairline and a little over an 1" long. I'll clean it up real good and try the high temp grade JB Weld. Hoping it will hold up because sucks not being able to ride and forget paying $295+ (best price I could get) for a new rad. heh.
The crack is pretty small. Almost hairline and a little over an 1" long. I'll clean it up real good and try the high temp grade JB Weld. Hoping it will hold up because sucks not being able to ride and forget paying $295+ (best price I could get) for a new rad. heh.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,572
From: Buffalo, NY
propane or butane (harbor freight# 42099-3VGA) is hot enough to melt the aluminum rod. I have used it on paper thin aluminum and its worked pretty well if you prep it well - a stainless steel brush came with my starter kit.
Senior Member
SuperBike
SuperBike
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,031
From: Los Angeles ish
Thats Mr Dill hole to you
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 389
From: Sioux Falls, SD Beeeotch
Most radiator shops cant heliarch hell most cant even sweat brass but i digres you need to find a welding shop with a arc. or a local union pipefitter shop they can fix it
but is the leak on the tank seam or a rouge crack on the flat metal or do you have a leak in one of the rows ???\
or hell ship it to me and ill arc the friggin thing....
but is the leak on the tank seam or a rouge crack on the flat metal or do you have a leak in one of the rows ???\
or hell ship it to me and ill arc the friggin thing....
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
I pulled the radiator. Well turns out what I was seeing by using a mirror on the backside was not a crack. So now I'm not sure where or why the radiator is leaking. I don't see any signs of damage or anything that would make me thing there would be a problem but obviously its leaking as I saw the general area of where it was spewing out from. It was in between the top rad. mounting areas closest to the front one barely.
I'm off tomorrow and wouldn't mind taking it to a radiator repair shop. Do they pressure test them to find the leaks and if it turns out to be a bad fin or row of fins what do they do and what would they generally charge? Sorry for all the questions but I've never had to get a radiator repiared and just want to know what to expect so someone doesn't take me for a loop and overcharge me.
Here are some pics. Sorry they are huge but I needed them to be so you guys could clearly see it up close. I'll post them as links so the page won't get blown upo due to thier large size
Oerall rear shot of the radiator. It was leaking from the upper portion in between the mounting holes. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
Here is a shot of the frame. You can see where the coolant left waterspots on the frame from spurting out. Notice the droplets fade away toward the left (front of the bike) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
Here are two close-ups of the fins in the upper portion:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
Thanks for any help or suggestions guys!
filter69, I may take you up on your offer depending on if the shops can get mine fixed and thier prices.
I'm off tomorrow and wouldn't mind taking it to a radiator repair shop. Do they pressure test them to find the leaks and if it turns out to be a bad fin or row of fins what do they do and what would they generally charge? Sorry for all the questions but I've never had to get a radiator repiared and just want to know what to expect so someone doesn't take me for a loop and overcharge me.
Here are some pics. Sorry they are huge but I needed them to be so you guys could clearly see it up close. I'll post them as links so the page won't get blown upo due to thier large size
Oerall rear shot of the radiator. It was leaking from the upper portion in between the mounting holes. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
Here is a shot of the frame. You can see where the coolant left waterspots on the frame from spurting out. Notice the droplets fade away toward the left (front of the bike) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
Here are two close-ups of the fins in the upper portion:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...diatorleak.jpg
Thanks for any help or suggestions guys!
filter69, I may take you up on your offer depending on if the shops can get mine fixed and thier prices.
Senior Member
SuperSport
SuperSport
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 524
From: Tarpon Springs, FL
I gotta tell ya I don't see ANYTHING that looks like a leak... I know a rad shop may find something via a pressure test, but motorcycle rads are thinner material than car rads, if I am not mistaken and some automotive shops may refuse to work on them claiming they are more difficult to work on. I may be remembering that incorrectly, though. Good luck, that rad looks brand new to my eyes...
High pressure leaks have a funny way of traveling, are you sure the hoses are not the culprit? It could be spraying from somewhere else and bouncing off the rad or something, or maybe the hose connection at the inlet/outlet...
Another common place is the seam along where the fins meet the side compartments of the radiator... I notice one little spot on the left side of the photo, looks like a weld spot though, not damage. Between the 4th and 5th fins from the top?
High pressure leaks have a funny way of traveling, are you sure the hoses are not the culprit? It could be spraying from somewhere else and bouncing off the rad or something, or maybe the hose connection at the inlet/outlet...
Another common place is the seam along where the fins meet the side compartments of the radiator... I notice one little spot on the left side of the photo, looks like a weld spot though, not damage. Between the 4th and 5th fins from the top?
Last edited by supermarto; Sep 12, 2008 at 12:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
Yeah I checked all the hoses real good and tightened up all the clamps. Didn't see a tear rip or weak point. When I watched it spewing from the radiator, I looked real close and could see it was indeed coming from the radiator. I'm off to head to a friends shop to see if he can help. If not then I will try other radiator repair shops and then go from there.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
Just got back from the shop being pressure tested. 3rd row had a hairline crack that goes into where it can't be repaired.
So if anyone has a left radiator that is in good condition, please let me know!
So if anyone has a left radiator that is in good condition, please let me know!
Thats Mr Dill hole to you
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 389
From: Sioux Falls, SD Beeeotch
Bah humbug.... no such thing as can not be repaired (more like i dont wanna scxrew with it)
i have on many occasions "pinched" off a row and have never noticed a temp issue..
but i can see a rad shop not wanting to rig or garuntee there work on something like that
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
Would you be able to fix it? I will gladly send it to you if you can get her fixed and sealed up. What's the turn around time? I will try a little trick with my DSLR and reverse my tele lens to make it a super macro and see if I can't take a picture of the crack. It's VERY smal but they told me he couldn't fix it. Probably like you said, because he didn't want to.
Also is radiator stop leak an alternative? I've looked at the collant flow diagram in the shop manual. My fear would be that stuff would make its way into areas I'd rather it not go like the block or the carbs.
PM me if you need to
Also is radiator stop leak an alternative? I've looked at the collant flow diagram in the shop manual. My fear would be that stuff would make its way into areas I'd rather it not go like the block or the carbs.
PM me if you need to
Last edited by haknslash; Sep 12, 2008 at 02:05 PM.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 127
From: Northeast Ohio
I would not use a radiator sealer. Some of that crap is abrasive and your water pump seals won't like it. I'm sure it can be repaired.The fins between the tubes can be trimmed out of the way(very carefully) to get at the crack. But first post us a picture of the damage with something marking it.Also Google "aluminum radiator repair".tons of info.Jb weld does work.I put a timing cover(alum)back together after a tensioner broke and the chain broke the cover.
Thats Mr Dill hole to you
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 389
From: Sioux Falls, SD Beeeotch
Would you be able to fix it? I will gladly send it to you if you can get her fixed and sealed up. What's the turn around time? I will try a little trick with my DSLR and reverse my tele lens to make it a super macro and see if I can't take a picture of the crack. It's VERY smal but they told me he couldn't fix it. Probably like you said, because he didn't want to.
Also is radiator stop leak an alternative? I've looked at the collant flow diagram in the shop manual. My fear would be that stuff would make its way into areas I'd rather it not go like the block or the carbs.
PM me if you need to
Also is radiator stop leak an alternative? I've looked at the collant flow diagram in the shop manual. My fear would be that stuff would make its way into areas I'd rather it not go like the block or the carbs.
PM me if you need to
im (we) are comfy with
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Send it toMotorcycle Aluminum Radiator Repair.
Prices and service can not be beat, Have a look at his results from repairs,,,,simply great work at good prices, and 1-2 day turn around.
I have sent countless dirt bike rads there and two street ones, plus a few from road race bkes ...
Prices and service can not be beat, Have a look at his results from repairs,,,,simply great work at good prices, and 1-2 day turn around.
I have sent countless dirt bike rads there and two street ones, plus a few from road race bkes ...
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Squid
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 49
From: Fort Worth Tx
Has anybody ever used these guys - http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/? Are they reputable? Will the repair work or will I need to replace it eventually? Thanks.
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