R/R on a 2003
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1
R/R on a 2003
I am looking at buying a 2003 hawk. I know the R/R and CCT are things to look out for. Is the 2003 R/R good enough or should I replace with R1 unit. I definately don't want to be stranded.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,572
From: Buffalo, NY
2001 and later will have the better one with the added cooling fins, they seem to hold up much better with much less failures. With that said if you would feel better with the beefier R1 unit go ahead - peace of mind is a good thing.
Member
Squid
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 39
From: Portland, OR
The newer ones do have cooling fins and are supposed to be more reliable. However, my 2005 went out after only 1800 miles. From what I've heard, it was probably a lemon of a part, but there's really no way to tell from just looking at it. So I agree with RickB, spend a little money and time for some peace of mind.
Az/Texas Rider
Back Marker
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 226
From: Arizona/Texas
I have an '04 and my stock r/r is still holding up fine, although I only have 4800 miles on it. Now that ive answered the question, mine better not go out or im going to be pissed...lol!!
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 758
****, my '98 had an r/r with cooling fins, but the thing was fairly small, so im sure that was part of the problem. the R1 r/r's are definitely better. they are much larger with bigger cooling fins. i took my bike for a ride after installing an R1 r/r and was able to put my hand on it afterwards, so they defiitely stay plenty cool.
RUNLEVELZERO #99
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,219
From: Skokie
An old fashioned PC heatsink with a 50mm sq. CPU cooling fan bonded & wired onto my 98's OE non-finned VR/R (with heat sink paste btwn back of VR/R & frame), vent holes bored in the lower rear of the seat cowl with corresponding NACA duct for exhaust, along with an intake duct to the VR/R with its scoop located above the Rr MC, and added electrical load of various lights & gadgets to minimize the need for the VR/R to cast off heat has done the trick (knock on plastic) for 8 years and leaves the battery with a 13.18v charge after every ride. But I have obtained an OE non-finned VR/R which I will mate with another OE plug and wires with crimp connectors that I will carry just in case. Heck, I just finally replaced my OE battery out of guilt. Not bad after 10 years and 60k miles.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 287
From: Brooklyn, CT
My '98 went 10 years and 20k miles before the tiny OEM R/R went. Doing the '01 R-1 swap this weekend. Got an aftermarket for $65. It's definately beefy....looks like the R/R on my Prairie 4x4.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 987
From: San Diego, CA
There's a writeup where they had to relocate a relay to mount the R1 unit. I didn't do that. I simply removed some harness tape so I could change the angle of where it plugs in. Used the top bolt, installed insulated spade connectors, and ziptied the wires tightly to keep it from coming loose.
My failed R/R had burn marks around one of the connectors, and the plastic plug was melted. It was not charging. I got a used Honda one from the shop to replace it, but one that was charging at 17volts.
My failed R/R had burn marks around one of the connectors, and the plastic plug was melted. It was not charging. I got a used Honda one from the shop to replace it, but one that was charging at 17volts.
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