Question about PAIR. . . Different way to Block?
04-19-2011, 01:43 AM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 23
Question about PAIR. . . Different way to Block?
Ok, so i had the airbox off yesterday and i figured i'd do something about the PAIR.
Instead of flipping the reed valves i thought i would just block the intake breather hose that goes from the airbox to the pair valve (used a bolt clamped inside the line). This is how i blocked the PAIR on my GSXR750 (k7) before i had it tuned etc etc and it worked well.
However i actually noticed that now that the hose blocked there is actually an increase in the popping and farting during deceleration. I have Staintune high mounts, not sure on the jetting as i only bought the bike a few weeks ago.
Any ideas?
Instead of flipping the reed valves i thought i would just block the intake breather hose that goes from the airbox to the pair valve (used a bolt clamped inside the line). This is how i blocked the PAIR on my GSXR750 (k7) before i had it tuned etc etc and it worked well.
However i actually noticed that now that the hose blocked there is actually an increase in the popping and farting during deceleration. I have Staintune high mounts, not sure on the jetting as i only bought the bike a few weeks ago.
Any ideas?
04-20-2011, 03:18 PM
#3
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 23
Cancle That!!!!!!! I relaised i forgot to put back on the little rubber stopper on the vacume line from the front cylinder (most people have a bolt) after syncing my carbs. . . .
Bike doesnt backfire at all now.
In summary, i just plugged the airline going from the airbox to the pair valve ( the one under the airbox on the right hand side of the bike). Everything else is still hooked up, so the vacume line still opens the valve, but no air can pass from the airbox through the valve to either pair reed valve
Bike doesnt backfire at all now.
In summary, i just plugged the airline going from the airbox to the pair valve ( the one under the airbox on the right hand side of the bike). Everything else is still hooked up, so the vacume line still opens the valve, but no air can pass from the airbox through the valve to either pair reed valve
04-20-2011, 03:52 PM
#4
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 3,451
The PAIR valve is open at zero vacuum and at low to moderate vacuum, up to 21" Hg. It's designed to close off the air flow at high vacuum, over 21"Hg. So, even just sitting there with the bike not running, the PAIR valve is open to air flow.
Why not just do it right. That way you clean up the underside of the airbox, making access to the carbs much easier. You can get the large plugs (caps actually) for the 2 air line fittings on the bottom of the airbox at the auto parts store.
Why not just do it right. That way you clean up the underside of the airbox, making access to the carbs much easier. You can get the large plugs (caps actually) for the 2 air line fittings on the bottom of the airbox at the auto parts store.
04-22-2011, 06:22 PM
#5
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,478
The PAIR valve is open at zero vacuum and at low to moderate vacuum, up to 21" Hg. It's designed to close off the air flow at high vacuum, over 21"Hg. So, even just sitting there with the bike not running, the PAIR valve is open to air flow.
Why not just do it right. That way you clean up the underside of the airbox, making access to the carbs much easier. You can get the large plugs (caps actually) for the 2 air line fittings on the bottom of the airbox at the auto parts store.
Why not just do it right. That way you clean up the underside of the airbox, making access to the carbs much easier. You can get the large plugs (caps actually) for the 2 air line fittings on the bottom of the airbox at the auto parts store.
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