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Pair removal block off

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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 10:04 AM
  #1  
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Pair removal block off

OK , today im going to attempt to flip my Pair... From what i have read i will:

Remove the tank, mark my hoses
Remove my airbox
Look for this square pair thing ( surrounded by rubber) and remove the front and access the reed valve, turn it over and replace everything..
Reconnect all hoses to pair and replace airbox, tank, hoses and ride..

i cannot stand my decelaration backfiring.. i have two bros pipes on it.

Does this sound correct? Ive seen the pics in the stickys..seems pretty easy.

Any pointers for me..did i miss anything.
Old Jul 31, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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I think the only reason to take off the tank and everything is to take it all off. Pretty sure all you need to do is take the pair covers off. their located ontop of both valve covers, pull out the reed flip it and install. Dont quote me and please slap me if im worg. its what I did but hen missed my decel pop so I flipped them back. I was even able to get the one on the back valve cover without removing the tank.
Old Jul 31, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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i posted another thread about this , but , my backfire was caused by a pinched hose when i put my lower fairing on after an oil change... newbie newbie rides like a champ after i cleared those hoses.. thanks misfit
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 06:02 AM
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I am tagging on to this thread, since the topic is right in my ballpark:

I recently did the following mods.

1 installed APE cct.
2. eliminated the PAIR valves. I removed the hoses and valve too (less is more). I capped off the various outlets this created.
3. Went back to stock exhaust from a full baffelectomy.

I haven't ridden a lot, but now notice a miss under light throttle, around 300/3500 rpm, when the bike is not fully warmed up. It seems to be a single cylinder cutting out.


Does this much information ring any bells out there as to cause/ correction.

TIA
Tom

PS Lynchie: follow the smaller hose to the head. It connects to the rectangular plate which you have to remove.

Last edited by Tom Blum; Aug 2, 2008 at 06:21 AM.
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 10:31 AM
  #5  
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well i dug into the plates and found the last guy who owned the bike already bought the pre stamped pair block off plates and installed them..like i wrote earlier, my back fire was cause by me pinching a hose during an oil change.. we should keep this thread going for others though..there are many threads about guys having problems with this pair blockoff procedure and the bikes not running right...
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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Addenda:
I also installed new plugs.

I rode about 120 miles today. The first half was before noon and the bike ran well. The temperature gauge was at around the first mark up.
On the way home at three, it was quite hot(85 or so) and in slower traffic There was quite a head wind. The miss showed up again. Temperature was near the mid point. I tried choking it when the miss was bad. I couldn't tell much, but the miss seemed less ???

I'm going to drop the oil cooler so I can check the front cylinder hoses to the airbox. Maybe one came loose. Still, you'd think it would miss all the time if that was the case.

Tom
Old Oct 12, 2008 | 05:43 AM
  #7  
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the rest of the story

I thought I'd fill in the blanks on this post for future "head scratchers"

The actual cause of the poor running was the side stand safety switch!!

I went over all the things I had done and could find no problems or screw ups. But the bike still missed , in fact even worse than at first.

Then I noticed the side stand switch was acting somewhat erratic. Sometimes the side stand light would not turn on when the stand was down. And finally, the bike wouldn't start with the stand up.

I removed the switch and checked it with a VOR . The run side seemed okay the light side was flakey. Finally, I cut the wires off and spliced the run pair together.
BINGO!!
The bike ran well, no miss. Apparently, the switch had a weak connection and broke up under operating vibration.

Tom
Old Oct 13, 2008 | 08:08 AM
  #8  
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ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!! I had this same problem after my R/R went out... I had the whole bike apart still thinking it was the R/R. Finally noticed the stank light acting erratic and looked into it. Found moisture was getting to the leads so the bike would run but also cut out.

My fix consisted of a paper clip properly trimmed to the correct size. Electrical tape and duct tape. You don't see the wires. She screams likea raped ape now.. Still need to do the R/R mod and CCT mode... Still kind of worried. SHe has always had that paint can rattle. Even when I bought her with 3500 miles on her...
Old Oct 15, 2008 | 12:20 PM
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Sounds familiar

"I haven't ridden a lot, but now notice a miss under light throttle, around 300/3500 rpm, when the bike is not fully warmed up. It seems to be a single cylinder cutting out."

I just posted about a similar deal but haven't received any replies. My bike also does this, can't remember if it always had or I'm just noticing it more now. My sidestand switch seems fine, I was kinda thinking it just means I need jetting to go along with the Vance & Hines S4's. Maybe I'll check that switch or cut it off as well. Anybody got pics?
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