performance question
08-03-2010, 02:05 PM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: lake of the ozarks missouri
Posts: 17
performance question
Hey everyone, I am new here. I just purchase my superhawk last friday from a salvage auction. it has 25k miles over all in decent condition. it starts, runs, rides. It has manual timing chain adjuster, two bros slip ons, and sonic fork springs. other than that it seems stock.
I have had several bikes in the past. I just came off of a 600 katana, I have an 06 zzr600 before that. I have worked at a couple different bike shops through the years and have ridden a wide variety of bikes.
My question is: How should this thing perform? It really seems to just level off and stop making power at about 5500rpm. According to the dyno sheets I have found online this thing should pull hard through the whole rpm range. I don't expect it to be a screamer like an inline 4, but I don't think it runs correctly. It Starts and idles fine. It is nice and torquey on bottom. I just falls on its face if you try to rev it out.
I have checked the carbs, they are nice and clean, everything is clear and seems correct. The air filter is ok, not the cleanest but not bad by any means. It has 155psi compression (cranking cold at WOT) My front plug looks significantly cleaner than my rear plug. ( I have new ones on order )
I have ridden sv650's and TL1000's in the past and they would both eat this thing alive as it is right now. I worked at a Honda shop in the late 90's and I can remember one of the other techs there riding a hawk that came in for service and just being absolutely amazed with how it ran. I must same I am currently very let down.
Any thaughts would be appreciated.
I have had several bikes in the past. I just came off of a 600 katana, I have an 06 zzr600 before that. I have worked at a couple different bike shops through the years and have ridden a wide variety of bikes.
My question is: How should this thing perform? It really seems to just level off and stop making power at about 5500rpm. According to the dyno sheets I have found online this thing should pull hard through the whole rpm range. I don't expect it to be a screamer like an inline 4, but I don't think it runs correctly. It Starts and idles fine. It is nice and torquey on bottom. I just falls on its face if you try to rev it out.
I have checked the carbs, they are nice and clean, everything is clear and seems correct. The air filter is ok, not the cleanest but not bad by any means. It has 155psi compression (cranking cold at WOT) My front plug looks significantly cleaner than my rear plug. ( I have new ones on order )
I have ridden sv650's and TL1000's in the past and they would both eat this thing alive as it is right now. I worked at a Honda shop in the late 90's and I can remember one of the other techs there riding a hawk that came in for service and just being absolutely amazed with how it ran. I must same I am currently very let down.
Any thaughts would be appreciated.
08-03-2010, 02:33 PM
#2
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,132
It should pull hard up to ~9500 rpm and have peak torque at around 6.5-7k (rev limiter is at 10.3k IIRC)
So something is definitely off. Is the choke working right? (sometimes one carb gets stuck on) is the petcock hooked up right? lots of things to check.. Perhaps the rear's choke is stuck on.
So something is definitely off. Is the choke working right? (sometimes one carb gets stuck on) is the petcock hooked up right? lots of things to check.. Perhaps the rear's choke is stuck on.
Last edited by lazn; 08-05-2010 at 01:44 PM.
08-03-2010, 02:41 PM
#3
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Squid
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: lake of the ozarks missouri
Posts: 17
Choke seems to be working correctly, approximately how far should the know pull out? mine pulls exactly 1/2". Seems short... But it idles fine ( about 1000rpm. ) when choked it does the high idle and everything like an enrichener should.
08-03-2010, 06:44 PM
#5
I could ride in
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Dayton, TN
Posts: 1,729
it should not be soft on the bottom and peaky up top; nor good on the bottom and lackluster up top... mine scares me held open on tight stuff! not a screamer like my ex - ZX-7, but some top end rush is there... neighbors know when i get on it above 5500 rpm lol! you've got some sort of issue...
08-03-2010, 07:26 PM
#7
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SuperSport
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Asheville, North Carolina
Posts: 949
A bike you don't know, yet go with the basics. Change the oil, filter, air filter, and the plugs. Sounds like you have descent compression. After changing those items -suggest spraying some Seafoam Deep Creep on the moving choke and butterflies in the carbs. Crank the bike up with the choke -let it get warm- remove the choke -LITELY spray around the engine with ether for vaccum leaks- then the fine tuning can began- You'll have to get that from the" ELDERS of KNOWLEDGE"
08-04-2010, 06:28 AM
#8
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Squid
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: lake of the ozarks missouri
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spark plugs are on order, no one in town had them.
Anyone know what stock size the main jets should be and what size is reccomended for use with slip on's?? ( I have two bros slip on's)
The diaphrams looked good. I inspected them thoroughly. The slides move freely with no binding.
thanks
Cale
Anyone know what stock size the main jets should be and what size is reccomended for use with slip on's?? ( I have two bros slip on's)
The diaphrams looked good. I inspected them thoroughly. The slides move freely with no binding.
thanks
Cale
08-04-2010, 07:00 AM
#9
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SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,051
spark plugs are on order, no one in town had them.
Anyone know what stock size the main jets should be and what size is reccomended for use with slip on's?? ( I have two bros slip on's)
The diaphrams looked good. I inspected them thoroughly. The slides move freely with no binding.
thanks
Cale
Anyone know what stock size the main jets should be and what size is reccomended for use with slip on's?? ( I have two bros slip on's)
The diaphrams looked good. I inspected them thoroughly. The slides move freely with no binding.
thanks
Cale
i run 178f / 180r with slip-ons but some run larger.
tim
08-04-2010, 07:57 AM
#11
Fastest Color
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lithia, FL
Posts: 2,091
You can check both:
The needles...aftermkt needles are adjustable but OEMs IIRC are not
The filter...aftermkt filters wont have the air dam
08-04-2010, 08:39 AM
#12
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: lake of the ozarks missouri
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air filter is stock, honda part. I will pull the carbs and check the mains to see what size they are.
Anyone have a link to a valve adjustment procedure?? I just want to check them being I don't know how well this bike has been maintained.
Anyone have a link to a valve adjustment procedure?? I just want to check them being I don't know how well this bike has been maintained.
08-04-2010, 08:52 AM
#14
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SuperBike
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Location: Lithia, FL
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https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=11365
Here's the svs manual...just pull the valve covers and check the gaps. If they aren't in spec you'll need to pull the cams and reshim, otherwise reinstall covers and ride
Here's the svs manual...just pull the valve covers and check the gaps. If they aren't in spec you'll need to pull the cams and reshim, otherwise reinstall covers and ride
08-04-2010, 09:01 AM
#15
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SuperBike
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA, USA
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I'm with cliby on this one.
I would pull the carbs and remove the caps for the slide actuator diaphrams and make sure the lip is seated in the groove and no tears in the diaphragm.
Also drain and remove the float bowls and determine what you have for main jets. Go with trinc's recommended jets, if you have a stock air filter. Install a stock air filter, if you don't, IMO. If you have the stock jets installed, you will still in the ballpark and it should pull hard and be quite satisfying above 5500 RPM.
I would pull the carbs and remove the caps for the slide actuator diaphrams and make sure the lip is seated in the groove and no tears in the diaphragm.
Also drain and remove the float bowls and determine what you have for main jets. Go with trinc's recommended jets, if you have a stock air filter. Install a stock air filter, if you don't, IMO. If you have the stock jets installed, you will still in the ballpark and it should pull hard and be quite satisfying above 5500 RPM.
08-04-2010, 10:42 AM
#17
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: lake of the ozarks missouri
Posts: 17
I'm with cliby on this one.
I would pull the carbs and remove the caps for the slide actuator diaphrams and make sure the lip is seated in the groove and no tears in the diaphragm.
Also drain and remove the float bowls and determine what you have for main jets. Go with trinc's recommended jets, if you have a stock air filter. Install a stock air filter, if you don't, IMO. If you have the stock jets installed, you will still in the ballpark and it should pull hard and be quite satisfying above 5500 RPM.
I would pull the carbs and remove the caps for the slide actuator diaphrams and make sure the lip is seated in the groove and no tears in the diaphragm.
Also drain and remove the float bowls and determine what you have for main jets. Go with trinc's recommended jets, if you have a stock air filter. Install a stock air filter, if you don't, IMO. If you have the stock jets installed, you will still in the ballpark and it should pull hard and be quite satisfying above 5500 RPM.
08-04-2010, 02:07 PM
#18
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: lake of the ozarks missouri
Posts: 17
its all better, for some reason the front slide wasn't working right. took it apart, put it back together, wow! much better. this thing really gets with the program!
by the way, my jetting is 175/178
by the way, my jetting is 175/178
08-04-2010, 02:27 PM
#20
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MotoGP
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08-04-2010, 11:23 PM
#23
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Well if you want to get technical the power starts to drop off at 9K as you are on the back side of the HP peak. You actually start to feel it at around 9.5K but as most never rev the motor that high...... the only reason I said anything is unless you have a HRC ecu you can never make it to 10.5K
08-05-2010, 12:50 PM
#24
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Well if you want to get technical the power starts to drop off at 9K as you are on the back side of the HP peak. You actually start to feel it at around 9.5K but as most never rev the motor that high...... the only reason I said anything is unless you have a HRC ecu you can never make it to 10.5K
08-05-2010, 01:24 PM
#26
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08-05-2010, 01:26 PM
#27
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08-06-2010, 08:15 AM
#29
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SuperBike
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Now that I've thought abut it some more, I think I have the gearing just right. I'm just hitting redline at the end of the front straight. I just need to stop trying to shift.
Anyway - I posted the dyno chart for a couple of reasons. One being a refernce for shift points. The other is that there is some good jetting info from Dan Kyle, which brings us back to the original subject.
Anyway - I posted the dyno chart for a couple of reasons. One being a refernce for shift points. The other is that there is some good jetting info from Dan Kyle, which brings us back to the original subject.
08-06-2010, 08:30 AM
#30
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my dyno
That Dyno run with just slip-ons seems strong compared to my run with full Erion system and jetting. May just be the difference in freshness as mine had 30K miles on it at the time...
