wrj913

If anyone has ideas about what my problem is. I would love to hear them.
My problem started yesterday two days ago. My idle dropped from roughly 1500 down to 1000 rpms. I have already tried to adjust the idle back up and it just stayed low. With the low idle my hawks engine will shut off when i am stopped. Sometimes the engine will cut off before im completely stopped. I can start the bike right after without many issues. If anything the bike just cuts off again immediately because of the low idle. When the issue started i smelt gasoline a lot more than i usually do. I had a carb sync done recently due to being in a new area but nothing else as far as major maintenance lately. I ride the hawk almost every day and for miles without any issues.
Again. Any help and input is appreciated.

Edit: at first thought i figured it was given. But i should state i have a 2001 superhawk with roughly 34000 miles on it. Only modification is a D&D exhaust system and led lights. Never dropped, at least from what i can tell. Only lightly set down a couple times.

CruxGNZ

Sounds like it could be a stuck float. Check your oil. Does it smell like fuel?

Look behind the bike. If you see large turds laying on the ground, then your bike is definitely shitting off.

wrj913

It seems to smell like it had fuel in it. I will try again in a few. The bile always seemed to give a slight smell of fuel, especially after refueling.

And thats what i get for typing this all from the phone.

Ons'Ro

A bad spark plug can make it act that way. A stuck float needle will foul a plug. I'd check both.

wrj913

Spark plugs are new about two weeks ago with the carb sync. But you both mentioned the float. So how do i get to it to take a look. I have a superhawk digital manual and ready to do some work. Just need to know where to go and look.

thetophatflash

Failing reg/rect? Does it die as you try to run up the idle (enrichen)?

wrj913

It likes to die at idle. But i did the checks for the reg/rec. its fine. Looks like a fairly new aftermarket one. Was my first thought after seeing everyones problems with the reg/rec

Ons'Ro

You said you had this done due to a change in location. Please explain.

When the sync was performed did they adjust the idle mixture screws at all?

Did it do this before the plugs and carb sync?

If not, how old or what was the condition of the old plugs?

If they are not that bad you could put them back in and if the condition temporarily goes away and comes back it is more likely than not one or both carbs with an issue.
If it comes back, I would pull the carbs, pull the float bowls and inspect the float needles. Generally speaking that is the culprit with a "stuck float".

Turning up the idle isn't necessarily enriching as you are just opening the throttle plate and allowing more air in as well as fuel.

wrj913

The location is from the bike coming from colorado. To hawaii for a year then to alabama (still carbed for colorado) so had it finally done to get things proper.

Dont know what they did. Brought to a powersports dealer and shop that sells and works on hondas. The bike just came back better for what was done.

It did this to a very slight extent before. The reason for the raised idle of 1500. But now the idle slows down to 1k or lower and shuts off a lot faster than it used to.

Old plugs were maybe half year old. They werent tightened all the way giving bad compression and fouled the plugs. The shop replaced them.

And youre saying to replace the plugs and check for a stuck needle in one or both bowls?

Ons'Ro

As we are unsure about what the shop did to adjust your carbs, say for elevation or tuning, it is hard to point you in the proper direction. Going from higher elevation(Colorado) to sea level to what ever your current elevation is, the shop should have made an adjustment to the jetting and mixture screws before the sync. If they did and adjusted properly then yes I would lean towards a stuck needle. That is why I say get a new set of plugs, which sucks because they are not the cheapest being iridium, and see if the condition goes away. You should be able to tell right away. If it does, then go after the carbs before the plugs get trashed. Now, again I don't know if it is going to be a needle issue or improper jetting but we will know that it is running rich enough to foul the plugs.

By the way, how many hours did the shop charge for the job? That may give me some incite as to what they may have done. Just syncing the carbs is a lot less than a rejet in terms of time and price.

Or better yet call them and ask, specifically, what it was they did to your bike.

wrj913

I dont think they jetted. But it was both elevation and for tuning. They priced me roughly 380 for a carb sync and fluid replacements. It was a 32k tune up without the valve tuning. The carbs had a problem of opening at different times which was a big need for the sync. I plan on going to the shop to see if they can guide me in the right direction to fixing this problem too. I dont have the money to really put it in for service to fix it.

Wicky

Search for the carb tune write up thread somewhere in the workshop section.

jscobey

Clogged vent lines possibly?

7moore7

If the plugs are new, no need to replace them yet, although you may want to pull them and check for irregularities and that the gap is correct.

What happens when you pull the choke out? Does it get better or worse?

As always, check pvlir- that little vacuum hose on your petcock should be on the back sideways nipple, not the vent one pointing down.

wrj913

If i pulled the choke out it got better. But i finally found the bowl drains the shop was telling me about. Drained some gas. Didnt seem to stop though. But now the bike will idle at 1100/1200 without turning off. Seems to do the trick. They told me about checking that tube also. But i didnt know where it was either. So ill check that too. Does anyone know if the bowls are suppose to stop draining gas or keep going?

7moore7

If the bike is off, they should stop. If they don't stop, then your petcock isn't working properly.

This should help you figure out the hoses:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...es-pics-22048/

wrj913

I cant quite lift the fuel tank till im back home, but If the vacuum tube is good. Would a petcock repair kit from ebay do the trick or is there a better place to get a repair kit?

7moore7

I would test the petcock before buying a kit (because a stuck float or something else may be causing the problems).

Take the two big fuel line hoses off the petcock first. If it's stuck open fuel will pour out, so may want to be ready to turn the little dial to "off" or put the hose back on quickly. Then put a vacuum on the small hose attached to the back of the petcock, or use another small similar hose. Yes, I'm telling you to suck on it. Fuel should come out as you do this and then stop when you stop. Sometimes you need to put your fingers on the fuel funnels to simulate backflow to stop it. If fuel is constantly leaking out, it's not working right.

Hopefully that made sense.

If anything is acting up, it's better to order the Honda OEM sub-assembly. Some of the rebuild kits don't seal well, and some work fine. But the Honda one always works and is easier to install. Part # 16953-ML0-034

SIRR1

Wouldn't a stuck needle valve drain most of the tank while the bike was off?


I have had a stuck needle valves on other bikes leave a 3ft oily gas stain on my shop floor...


What's the chance the petcock diaphragm is going bad like not holding a vacuum at low engine RPM's?


SIRR1

superman22x

I'm dealing with a similar issue. I just checked my plugs, front one was good, the rear one was pretty black, so it's running rich on the rear cylinder. Also, my MPG is less than 30, but I do live in a really hilly area. Mine seems to be fine when I first start it with the choke out, but once it's a little warmed up, it dies out when I pull the choke.
I ended up checking the TPS sensor and it was at 670 Ohms, so I adjusted it down to 500. Haven't had a chance to ride since though. It was idling smooth after I did that, but it idled smooth sometimes before. Before it would idle up at 2000, or die out. Weird.

Is there an enrichment screw to adjust on the VTR?

SIRR1

Gosh this reminds me of the many 4 stroke singles that I have owned over the years...


And my Street legal Husaburg 501 Supermoto was the worst and would do this to me on many of an occasions.


I would pull up to a red stop light at a busy intersection and I am sitting idling there wait for the light to turn green, I would blip the throttle ready to take off and the SOB would die for no reason it would just go puke and die.


So with the Husaberg being a European built motorcycle these EU fools can't follow other designs as being a universal placement like the position of the kick starter placed being on the left side?


Aw hell so I have to get off the bike to kick it back to life and only being 6ft tall and not being a perfect 6'-4'' blonde hair blue eyed German stud muffin I have to get off the Berg and roll it to the curb in order to start the beast, oh the embarrassment!


I was like 4 inches short of touching the ground while sitting on the seat and damn that bike was fun on the road, I pissed off a lot of people especially on top gear roll on's I could walk away from just about ant bike out there but that's another story...


So I made damn sure my next street legal super motard had a magic button to start things a rolling.


I took a Honda XR400R engine and added the starting components from a Honda TRX400EX 4 wheeler, I could even run the bike in reverse, she was a head turner and fast it would have given the Husaberg a run for the money.


I had a guy drive 1500 miles one way to buy the bike and he never took it for a test ride, he started counting out hundred dollar bills and we loaded it on a hitch carrier and off he went?


SIRR1

jerryh

thumpers cough and die sometimes. Nature of the beast but love the torque and sound

insulinboy