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LED faster blinking is ok?

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Old May 24, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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LED faster blinking is ok?

hi guys, i've been lurking in the dark for a while, but finally had a question i couldn't find in the search box

i recently switched to LED flush-mounts turn signals from Mototeck, and they no surprise blink faster than stock OEM bulbs...my questions is, are there any harms to just leaving them blinking faster? Will my circuit or LED bulbs burn out due to the faster rate or stronger electrical current?

Thanks in advance!
Old May 24, 2010 | 09:54 AM
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The LED's won't burn out, but if you are using some incandescent bulbs at the same time they might (that is what I am doing, LEDs in back, bulbs in front) but probably not even them.

It might also be a legal issue depending on your state's laws.

But it isn't going to have a "stronger current" or anything like that.
Old May 24, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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Thanks for your reply, I have both front and back as LED turn signals, but my tail and head lights are still stock, does that mean they have a chance of burning out?

I don't really mind the faster blinking, I just didn't want them to burn out or ruin the relay for some reason
Old May 24, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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Nope, the Headlight and tail light are on different circuits, they will be fine.

LED's lifespan are so long that you won't burn them out unless you overvolt them or otherwise abuse them.

The blinker unit itself may burn out faster (I think it is a bimetallic strip that physically moves back and forth to blink the blinker) but how much faster is not an exact science. (mine have been blinking fast for a few years now, I still have one set of bulbs in the circuit so my blink rate is halfway between yours and stock)

You could always put in one of the equalizer type blinker units: http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1...tem=MRX_FRH1_G
that would slow it down to a normal flash rate.
Old May 24, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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I got a question

On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.

Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.

Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?


Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
Old May 24, 2010 | 12:02 PM
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just wire in some rizoma resistors and call it a day. i just did mine over the weekend and they are cheap enough.
Old May 24, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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how do I wire it so that I have the running light on as well? do i need to wire bliner and running light wires together?
Old May 24, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DaNewKidd
how do I wire it so that I have the running light on as well? do i need to wire bliner and running light wires together?
Nope, that won't work as then you won't have any blinkers (they would just stay on all the time front and rear).

You would need to buy or make something like this: http://www.customdynamics.com/magic_blinkers.htm
Old May 24, 2010 | 03:21 PM
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Huh?

Originally Posted by Anwar
I got a question

On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.

Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.

Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?


Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
probably using the wrong oil........................
Old May 24, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Anwar
I got a question

On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.

Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.

Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?


Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?

Maybe you should read the replies to your thread instead of just asking the same question over and over in different threads.......
Old May 24, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Led use less voltage so they flash faster.. It should be okay
Old May 24, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Get an electronic flasher from http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...2Fflashers.htm


(LFS-1-FLAT)
Old May 25, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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woah...that flasher relay from superbrightleds is only HALF price of the one from customerleds...is there a big difference?

http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm

vs

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...ers.htm#Table4
Old May 25, 2010 | 01:13 PM
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The one from superbrightleds is probably made better is all

lol But in all honesty, the are probably so close to identical that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference
Old May 25, 2010 | 01:44 PM
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haha that's what i thought...i ordered one off superbright just now...

that is..assuming i only need one relay per bike right?

thanks for your help everyone!
Old May 25, 2010 | 10:42 PM
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I'm sure the only difference is price. I've had one on my VTR for at least 10k miles with no issues.

Originally Posted by DaNewKidd
woah...that flasher relay from superbrightleds is only HALF price of the one from customerleds...is there a big difference?

http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm

vs

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...ers.htm#Table4
Old May 26, 2010 | 04:17 AM
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Personally, I like the faster blinking. When I see a normal blink it looks like it takes too long to signal. The faster blinking gets your attention right away. At least, that's what I think, so I haven't changed out the relay.
Old May 26, 2010 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by doomcookie
Led use less voltage so they flash faster.. It should be okay
Less load/resistance, causes the relay to think that there is an open, then it blinks faster.

Ever notice a car and their blinker is blinking fast, walk around to the front, the bulb is most likely out, less load/resistance so it flashes faster.

They do use less voltage as well, but that is not the cause of the faster blinking.

Last edited by Erik S.; May 26, 2010 at 04:22 AM.
Old May 26, 2010 | 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Erik S.
Ever notice a car and their blinker is blinking fast,
Can't say I ever noticed a car with it's blinker being used. Must be a Philly thing. Oh wait, just remembered the guy I followed for seventeen miles with his right blinker on. Seemed to be flashing normally. Front bulb must have been okay!
Old May 26, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by peterpanic
Can't say I ever noticed a car with it's blinker being used. Must be a Philly thing. Oh wait, just remembered the guy I followed for seventeen miles with his right blinker on. Seemed to be flashing normally. Front bulb must have been okay!
He must have been visiting Philly from Phoenix then. Blinkers around here are used to indicate the age of the driver. The longer it blinks the older the driver.. I swear we have some drivers who are immortal.
Old May 26, 2010 | 09:29 AM
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Sooo.... you people are INTENTIONALLY telling the cagers where you want to go? Doesn't sound like a good idea to me
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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I hope this doesn't qualify as a hi-jack.

I have the same issue, the difference is my newly installed aftermarket turn signals are not LEDs they are bulbs as well. Does this make any sense?

The turn-signals I removed were also aftermarket flush mounts, they used small incandescent bulbs. The new ones I am replacing them with use larger bulbs (with two filaments). I do not intend to use both filaments.

When I hit the switch they blink like crazy, when I installed the old turn signal it goes back to blinking normally.

I have measured the resistances accross the bulbs:

Old bulb: 1.3 Ohm
New bulbs: 2.1/2.2 Ohm.

I assume this added resistance makes the bike think a bulb is out and fast blink is it's warning message to me. Is there something that can be done to slow the blinking down? Do I need an aftermarket flasher for it?

Thanks.

Last edited by kraher; Jun 27, 2010 at 03:27 PM.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:58 PM
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V=IR. Your new bulbs have less current draw. So although not LED apparently low enough to mess your blink rate up.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kraher
I hope this doesn't qualify as a hi-jack.

I have the same issue, the difference is my newly installed aftermarket turn signals are not LEDs they are bulbs as well. Does this make any sense?

The turn-signals I removed were also aftermarket flush mounts, they used small incandescent bulbs. The new ones I am replacing them with use larger bulbs (with two filaments). I do not intend to use both filaments.

When I hit the switch they blink like crazy, when I installed the old turn signal it goes back to blinking normally.

I have measured the resistances accross the bulbs:

Old bulb: 1.3 Ohm
New bulbs: 2.1/2.2 Ohm.

I assume this added resistance makes the bike think a bulb is out and fast blink is it's warning message to me. Is there something that can be done to slow the blinking down? Do I need an aftermarket flasher for it?

Thanks.
Try switching the hot leads on the new signals as it sounds like you have the signal and running light reversed
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
Try switching the hot leads on the new signals as it sounds like you have the signal and running light reversed
Nope, did that. If I switch the wiring the lights stay on all the time.

I definitely think I have it wired correctly it just blinks crazy fast.

Thanks.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevebis1
V=IR. Your new bulbs have less current draw. So although not LED apparently low enough to mess your blink rate up.
So if I replace the blinker relay with one of these (bottom one): http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...2Fflashers.htm

It should sort this out?

Thanks.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kraher
Nope, did that. If I switch the wiring the lights stay on all the time.

I definitely think I have it wired correctly it just blinks crazy fast.

Thanks.
That makes no sense what so ever. By switching the leads you only change which filament is used for the blinker and which one is used for the running light. One should be on all the time and the other flashes, so you might want to check your wiring again.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
That makes no sense what so ever. By switching the leads you only change which filament is used for the blinker and which one is used for the running light. One should be on all the time and the other flashes, so you might want to check your wiring again.
Sorry, miscommunication.

The bulbs have two filaments, I am not using one filament as I do not want the running lights (I live in Canada, the headlight is always on).

If I change filaments it does not affect the blink rate whatsoever, if I change wiring on the harness end it stays on just like the daytime running lights should.
Old Jun 28, 2010 | 01:43 AM
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Yeah, and since you use a dual filament bulb, blinkers = both filaments lit, running = one lit... So obviously when you only light one up it throws of the blink rate... If your bike is wired for running light's use them... If not, wire up both filaments together as blinkers...
Old Jun 28, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Yeah, and since you use a dual filament bulb, blinkers = both filaments lit, running = one lit... So obviously when you only light one up it throws of the blink rate... If your bike is wired for running light's use them... If not, wire up both filaments together as blinkers...
Doh! I was excited when I read this, it made perfect sense.

Sadly, both filaments wired up, or one filament AND one running light and its still on fast blink mode.

Is it a matter of wiring resistors in parallel to get the resistance down to match the old bulbs?

Thanks.



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