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Just changed the oil to Rotella T. WOW

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Old 11-16-2006, 08:54 PM
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$75!! You've got to be chitin me, NO oil is worth that IMO.
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:59 PM
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$75!! You've got to be chitin me, NO oil is worth that IMO.
If you read through that thread you will see where he quotes that to someone.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:12 PM
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We had a guy on the VFR forum who tested oil daily on real engine dynos 24-7 for a vehicle research institute here in Texas. All the manufactuers used them for real world tests. Since it was his job, whenever an oil thread popped up he was pretty vocal about his findings and it eventually got him silenced web-wise by work.

Anyway his recommedations: first choice mobil 1 syn15-50w vtwin formula (I've never seen it) and mobil 1 syn 15-50W red cap (now gold) second.

To me, the funny part about oil threads is that most riders don't keep a bike for the duration so who the f*$k cares if the motor only lasts 50k, 100k, or 200K because of the oil, filters, and change interval used? :-)
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 3D02
If you read through that thread you will see where he quotes that to someone.
That price was wholesale, retail is $103!!!! F that.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by superbling
We had a guy on the VFR forum who tested oil daily on real engine dynos 24-7 for a vehicle research institute here in Texas. All the manufactuers used them for real world tests. Since it was his job, whenever an oil thread popped up he was pretty vocal about his findings and it eventually got him silenced web-wise by work.

Anyway his recommedations: first choice mobil 1 syn15-50w vtwin formula (I've never seen it) and mobil 1 syn 15-50W red cap (now gold) second.

To me, the funny part about oil threads is that most riders don't keep a bike for the duration so who the f*$k cares if the motor only lasts 50k, 100k, or 200K because of the oil, filters, and change interval used? :-)
^5 on that one, I only have 7900 miles on the Hawk, and I have had it a year, that means I put 2900 miles on her this past year, now I will ride more this coming year, but lets just say that is 4k per year...That means I could run her for the next 12-15 years before I need to worry about anything...Hmm and with the money I will save on oil, we hell I can buy more bling bling for my girlfriend(ie the hawk).....
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by superbling
We had a guy on the VFR forum who tested oil daily on real engine dynos 24-7 for a vehicle research institute here in Texas. All the manufactuers used them for real world tests. Since it was his job, whenever an oil thread popped up he was pretty vocal about his findings and it eventually got him silenced web-wise by work.

Anyway his recommedations: first choice mobil 1 syn15-50w vtwin formula (I've never seen it) and mobil 1 syn 15-50W red cap (now gold) second.

To me, the funny part about oil threads is that most riders don't keep a bike for the duration so who the f*$k cares if the motor only lasts 50k, 100k, or 200K because of the oil, filters, and change interval used? :-)
As many times as I change my oil I could probably use cod liver oil and it still last 30,000 miles.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:28 PM
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Or maybe Jim Beam, that way if you get thirsty...hmmm I think you see were I am going with this one...hic up.....
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:38 PM
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Slowly back away from the bottle sir.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:47 PM
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I not as think as you drunk I am.../ lol
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Old 11-17-2006, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by penst8grad
I've always used Rotella, recently switched to Rotella Synthetic. Not sure how much difference there is, but at the price I'll use synth.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html I also use the Rotella T full synthetic in all of my bikes with the expected good results. For all of you guys interested the link I posted is an oil filter cross referrence. Some of you might find it useful!
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:21 PM
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Repost!! But it doesn't hurt to have it again.
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Old 11-30-2006, 03:24 PM
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Wow. Oil threads are like car wrecks on the highway. You dont want to look, but you do, and then once you do look, you just cant look away...
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Old 11-30-2006, 03:33 PM
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Or that old saying opinions are like A-holes...everyone has one and they all stink.
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Old 11-30-2006, 08:14 PM
  #44  
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...and everyone has to reply...

Damn, this is almost like an addictive drug....how sad.
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Old 12-04-2006, 08:55 PM
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could someone pass the chips, I have the munchies....lol....:-? :-?

so I am getting ready to do my once a year oil change, yup....mobil 1 gold cap it is....and the supertech filter of course....hey...$29 bucks once a year, not bad....and the oil coming out is still pretty clean.....
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Old 12-05-2006, 06:13 AM
  #46  
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once a year?
in texas?

how much do you ride?
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Old 12-05-2006, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Radiaoktiv
once a year?
in texas?

how much do you ride?
Well I just got the bike last Nov, and I put about 3700 miles on it so far,,,nothing compared to most of you guys....Normally I would change oil every six months regardless of miles....but the Mobil 1 is still clean, course I figure $29 bucks once a year no big deal, better to be safe...

Don't live in Texas anymore....now it is cold...I miss Texas...but I do have the mountains now, hmm tough call....
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Old 12-05-2006, 07:45 AM
  #48  
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oh

should have checked your location

after almost 4k miles, it doesnt feel any different? the shifting or anything?
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Old 12-05-2006, 11:16 AM
  #49  
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Nope, nothing that would make me say, oh I need to change the oil....

Now unless that is the problem with the front rotors....LOL:-D
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:06 PM
  #50  
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diesel engine oil in a motorcycle?

I would not buy a bike where the owner had been running diesel engine oil just to save a few bucks, plain and simple. Nowhere on the Rotella site do I see that this oil meets the SH's requirements of SF or SG. You guys have no idea what the long term effects are going to be. You run it for a few miles and assume everything is OK. That's dumb.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Les
I would not buy a bike where the owner had been running diesel engine oil just to save a few bucks, plain and simple. Nowhere on the Rotella site do I see that this oil meets the SH's requirements of SF or SG. You guys have no idea what the long term effects are going to be. You run it for a few miles and assume everything is OK. That's dumb.
Hey Les, maybe a little research should be done before you start slining insults around.


API Service Classifications
The American Petroleum Institute (API) has standardized a series of service classifications for motor oils. An oil is run in laboratory engines to determine its resistance to wear, oxidation, corrosion and deposit formation, as well as its overall ability to lubricate. Oils for gasoline engines have service classifications beginning with an "S" (for Service) and followed by a letter "A" through "L" to indicate increasing performance levels. Oils for diesel engines have service classifications beginning with "C" (for Commercial) and followed by a letter "A" through "I." Classifications CG, CH and CI are followed by the number 4: CG-4, CH-4 and CI-4. The "S" and "C" prefixes of the service classifications do not stand for "spark" (gasoline engines) and "compression" (diesel engines), as is sometimes thought.
Service classifications SA and SB never were suitable for automobile engines. You may find bottles of SA and SB oil on grocery store shelves, but these classifications are barely suitable for lubricating hedge clippers. Similarly, SC through SG oils have been superseded for use in modern gasoline engines. Oils for late-model gasoline engines carry service classifications SH, SJ, SL and the newer GF-1, GF-2 and GF-3. Service classifications SH (1996 and older), SJ (2000 and older) and SL (2001 and later) can be substituted for SF and SG oils. Some SL oils also meet the GF-3 energy conserving requirements. We'll cover GF ratings in more detail later.

So as you can see the SJ and SL exceed the older SF and SG API ratings and the oil is NOT an "energy conserving" oil that damages the clutch so what's the argument?

Here's some more info if you'd like. http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/motorcycle_oil.htm
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Old 12-29-2006, 07:54 AM
  #52  
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I stand corrected. I agree that it is acceptable to run these oils. See below from The Shell Rotella FAQ. Note that they say to look for the SL rating though.

"Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?

Motorcycle gasoline engines may not seem in the same league as the big displacement diesel engine under your hood, but they share some of the same lubrication requirements. So yes, in many cases, a premium heavy-duty universal oil capable of serving both diesel and gasoline engines is the best choice for your bike.

The high power-to-displacement ratio of a motorcycle engine means rod and main bearings are subjected to loads that are not normally found in passenger car engines. The valve train is also highly loaded, and requires extreme pressure boundary lubrication. The same can be said about gears in the transmission, which are normally lubricated by engine oil. Oil additives containing phosphorus protect these highly loaded extreme pressure areas (in both gasoline and diesel engines). Because diesel engines have higher loading of components, more of the phosphorus-containing additive is present than in typical passenger car oils. And with advanced catalyst systems for gasoline engines, the phosphorus content has been declining in passenger car oils.

Since many bike engines are air-cooled, and tend to be operated at high power outputs and speeds, their lubricating oil needs to be more resistant to high temperature oxidation. That?s another advantage of a premium universal oil. Another thing you want in your motorcycle is oil that has excellent viscosity control, so that with use it retains high temperature viscosity. Some multiviscosity grade passenger car oils, subjected to extreme loads, can quickly thin out. Their viscosity can drop to the next lower grade.

One last thing to consider is whether oil contains friction modifier additives. For improved fuel economy, most passenger car oils have such an additive. But the wet clutch in your bike doesn?t perform right with friction modifiers. Universal engine oils don?t have friction modifiers.

Be careful choosing diesel oils. Not all of them are universal. In addition to the API Service Category CI-4 PLUS for diesels, look for API Service Category SL.

Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA? T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge."
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:09 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Les
I stand corrected. I agree that it is acceptable to run these oils. See below from The Shell Rotella FAQ. Note that they say to look for the SL rating though.

"Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?

Motorcycle gasoline engines may not seem in the same league as the big displacement diesel engine under your hood, .......... blah blah blah blah blah blah..... Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA? T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge."
Dude, that WHOLE section has been quoted at least once already in this thread, ONE page back. And, if you were to look at a bottle of Rotella, you would see that it is, indeed, rated SL.
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Old 12-29-2006, 03:23 PM
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Hint on the filters: the 6607 also fits a 1995 Miata. That's how I remember it if I can't figure the number out when I'm standing in the aisle at Walmart. Also nets you the correct Mobil/Pennzoil/Fram(blech)/etc filter in the cross-check book in the automotive section.
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Old 12-30-2006, 05:00 AM
  #55  
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The new Rotella triple protection:
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...iple_1006.html

Bet you did'nt know shell made motorcycle specific oil:
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t_ga_2101.html
Unfortunately they are'nt available in the U.S. I emailed them and asked why, no response yet.
Who says you can't run full synthetic in a new engine, Ducati does'nt think so, read the last paragraph.
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...5_ga_2101.html

The Rotella T multigrade would'nt meet JASO MA specs because the ash levels were too high 1.4 ppm. The new triple protections ash level is at 1.0 ppm, within JASO MA specs and it contains no friction modifiers.....so you decide if it fit for motorcycles.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:23 AM
  #56  
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are you guys using some sort of clutch additive with this oil?
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:35 AM
  #57  
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I use rotella in my nissan with a sr20det during the winter works great
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:01 PM
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wow, old thread. No additives needed. That is why they work with our clutches, if they had friction reducers added, the clutch would slip. I have used rotella and delo 400 in various applications, and the delo seems to be a little better of an oil.
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Old 10-11-2009, 03:36 PM
  #59  
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I've never heard of the aforementioned Rotella "10w40". Just the dino 15w40, straight weight 30 and the Syn 5w40.


Rotella 15w40 is JASO MA compliant, an excellent oil and cheaper than any "motorcycle" oil I know of.
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Old 10-11-2009, 05:03 PM
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I read, somewhere on the Intertube, that Amzoil is a cult!


Rex
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