Yeah they do have a star and yeah your right see it now just looked weird but yeah stock

It's actually a K that's not a stick K but thicker and kind of looks like a star. That will tell you if they are Keihin jets weather they were replaced or not you'll know by the size stamped on them.

From Hawk's extensive research on these he recomends a 48 pilot. When I tore mine appart someone had installed 50 pilots. By setting up the carbs exactly as Hawk said I found my bike ran nearly perfect! He did an excellent job in his carb setup thread. I'd highly recomend you follow his directions there.

Ok guys long story short did quick clean on Carbs floats jets slides needle just didn't seperate carbs put back together cleaned plugs no one had any put $10 premeum gas started didn't smoke but then. Started to let it run few mins then took it for a quickride kinda spit and sputtered but after bout 4 min fuel light came on and I pulled in nearest g station outta gas 2.5 gallons in 4-5 mins wow put gas in tired petcock in middle shot to my buddies house pulled plugs back one black and wet front still not to badany suggestions do I need to do a better clean and seperate carbs? ???

You shouldn't need to separate the carbs at all. Nothing really that you can't get to with them together. How many miles did you ride? The petcock is all the way one way for on and all the way the other for off. The light will come on with about a gallon left in the tank.

i would suggest taking them apart again and take your time.could be stuck floats,clogged needles,something stuck or loose,could be many things now.
its possible,its not getting spark.
did you sync the carbs,was there gas leaking from anywhere.have you checked the oil for gas in it.dump oil out and inspect it.
did you correctly put the carbs all the way on the boots and tighten the band.if the carb isnt all the way down.that could cause some problems.
you gonna have to take your time,read the manual and do it in steps.
i cant see 2.5 gallons of gas going no where if there is no smell or wet spots on the bike or ground.that much gas in the motor,i just wouldnt think you would be driving,or driving safe at all.
good luck.long journey ahead.

Well not sure what you mean by tried petcock in the middle but the first thing you need to do is figure out what happened to the 2.5 gals of fuel.

It has to be leaking somewhere.

And on a side note these bike run just fine (if not better) on regular....no need for premium. ;)

+1 on that,87 or 88 octane is plenty fine for the beast,ive tested.the bike sucks with 91 or 93.
the highest i use is 89,and thats if i have no choice.

Octane rating is simply the fuel rating to risitance to combustion. The higher the octane the harder it is for the fuel to burn. If you're not running a high compression engine that needs high octane it can actually hurt the performance. If the engine doesn't ping it doesn't need higher octane. Put to high of octane in and it won't burn very well due to not enough compression and you will actually loose power.

The gas was coming out of the exhaust I was just hoping that like someone else said it hasn't been risen in awhile so maybe I needed to be rode to work its way back to life but yeah at first it was spraying a lot of gas outta exhaust and the 4-5 min was maybe 2 miles like you said I am going to take my time and do it right any suggestions on raw fuel out exhaust I was thinking floats but 2.5 gallons that quick what else could it be has to be in carbs right? And thanks for the gas tip I appreciate all your guys help I need to take my time just got over excited first bike

Seems like the rear float is stuck open. It could be the float needle is worn, there could be debris or corrosion on the float needle seat, or the plastic float has a leak in the body and allowed gasoline inside the air chamber.

You will also have lots of fuel in your engine oil if this is the case.

K what is good oil to run and figured sicnei didn't seperate carbs would not have to synchronize them am I wrong can't find anything in service manual about it

if it was coming out of the exhaust,definitely make sure you take time with carbs,but on another note,another member that lived close to me was having similar problems,and the end result was,the vacuum line was on the wrong nipple of the petcock,but it still worked,eventually some gas leaked thru the vacuum line and into the exhaust leaking everywhere,even from the petcock.
he bought the bike like this and rode it for months without problems,i dont know how,but he did.finally at the end,i helped him fix it and it drove better than it ever did.
so,make sure vacuum is in the right place on the petcock,which is the nipple behind it,not on bottom.but ofcourse the petcock diaphragm might be damaged,so you might need a rebuild kit.

i use mobil one v-twin motorcycle synthetic oil,walmart usually has it for the cheapest price.change filter too.
anytime you take the carbs out,the setting will be off,its very touchy.
somewhere around here is a how-to on the carb sync and home made tool.
while you have the carbs off,is when you need to add a small type of valve on the front cylinder to do the carb sync.

Thanks guys its really cool to have people in this world that are still not all about themselves its cool you guys take time out of your days to help people like me so thank you you guys are awesome

If you plan on doing a carb sync (you should), search for "boost valve". That's the extra nipple that you buy for the front cylinder that makes the sync much easier. The whole process is fairly cheap... you can make a homemade tool for less than 10 bucks that works pretty well and the boost valve is less than 5.

There's a "how to" under the VTR1000F to help out with the carb sync here:

www.SuperHawk996.net!!!

If the float was stuck it'd be dumping fuel out of the overflow on the carbs. If anything I think Saige is on to something with the vacuume line. That and/or the diaphram in the fuel petcock is cracked and torn and the vacuume line is sucking fuel.

The carbs don't just get bumped out of sync per se but over time they may work themselves out. Just because you don't take the whole assembly apart doesn't mean they won't be out of sync as you don't know what they were like before. They could have been out all along. It's just part of the process of getting it all back to tip top. The sync also wouldn't cause all the issues with fuel consupmtion. You need to probably change the plugs or maybe even swap the plugs and take it for a ride. Get a good 10-20 miles on it. Get it good and warmed up to opperating temp so it has a chance to get cleaned out and off the chokes. Don't be afraid to beat on it a little, open it up after the first 5-10 miles and see how it runs.

The oil question will open a ca of worms....lol just don't use a oil for cars or you will have an issue with the wet clutch. You can do a search for the different types of oil guys have used.

Standard Honda GN4 10-40w is always a safe bet. Personally I run Mobil 1 motorcycle 10-40w as my bike shifts the best with it but any quality oil that is not "energy conserving" should work fine. In most areas 10-40w is the right weight to run.

As for sync'ing the carbs. You really should do it every time to remove them. they are very easy to knock out a little bit and once you have the bike set up (a tee in the line to the petcock and a boost joint installed in the front with a line and cap attached) it is a 5 min job at most and the bike will run much better.

Ok last night I made the homemade tool then took tank off now where its telling me to put the boost valve to di the sync on the front cylinder is the same spot as the rear cylinder thar already has the hose and everything correct now this hose is the ob that goes to the back of petcocj correct? Now the other one goes into the bottom of the tank is the breather witch goes around the hole bike and dumps in the atmosphere under bike and in frame right?

And I was trying to determine witch was on and off on the petcock with the tank off and no gas came out of tank either way this normal and If I'm right that the vacuum on the rear intake is the o e that goes to the petcock then I had it right so diaphragm??? And looking ay service manual it looked like the breather tube went to the back off the thermostat housing but obiviously it dosent but there looks to be a hose missing???? Off the back of thermostat probably o e on airbox huh didn't think about that

You're right, the petcock is a diaphragm so no gas will come out unless there is being a vacuum applied (the same one for the carb sync as you noted). That and the two fuel lines, there is no other hoses on the petcock. The nipple pointing down is a decoy... too many people put the vacuum line on that instead of the rear nipple that points sideways.

The one on the back of the thermostat housing is a decoy as well; no hose goes there ;)

Yeah, the boost valve goes where the hex bolt is in the front cylinder (kitty corner to the other one like you noted). I just put a cap on the boost valve when I'm done so I don't have to remove it and replace the bolt everytime I sync the carbs. I do the same for the T valve running from the rear cylinder to the petcock.

Pretty much everything that you described is correct, I'm just confirming it!

Awesome but why do I have gas coming out of the exhaust because I had the hoses correct and diaphragm would be good since nothing came out of tank when disconnected right?

even tho no gas is coming out when its not running,doesnt mean its not broken or malfunctioning.
if there is fuel coming out of your exhaust,it is coming from the vacuum hose or thru the ports of the head.
02-25-11 Bike Wars Episode 5 - YouTube
the bike i worked on,didnt leak at all when off,when it was on,it leaked bad.
this video will give you idea of what im talking about,notice the plastic hose on the bottom of nipple,gas is leaking out when running.thats where the vacuum was,it doesnt belong there.because it was there,gas went into exhaust.but on yours im thinking its getting sucked thru on the correct side of the petcock,or the carb is just dumping thru the heads,there is no other way.

I agree that the petcock could allow fuel into the rear cylinder while the engine is running, if the diaphragm is torn. The oring could still seal properly and cut off the fuel flow when no vacuum is applied (engine not running).

Test it. Connect a properly sized hose to the nipple and apply vacuum. Using a MityVac would be very easy here. A syringe would work well too. If vacuum bleeds off quickly then the diaphragm is torn. It should hold a vacuum indefinitely. If you draw more vacuum and it keeps dropping then you will get gasoline in the test hose.

I watched video thought there wasn't any thing hooked up to thatbottom nipple on the petcock thought it was sealed off

Plus don't k ow how but after took airbox off and air filter out put tank down ran somewhere lifted tank back up puddle of gas inairfiler tray

on that bottom nipple,nothing goes there at all,we put that there to catch the gas leaking.
i dont understand the last post,

Was there not any gasoline in the lower airbox when you removed the air filter? Was the fuel there only after you had lowered the tank back down on the hinge and then raised it again?

These carbs do not have a dedicated overflow port. And, since the float bowl vents are actually higher than the lowest part of the carb throat/airbox joint, a stuck float will flood the entire carb and gas will overflow into the airbox. This is true of the rear carb for sure, the front vent may be lower.

I would say while it could be the petcock it is hard to believe that it would dump that much fuel (the 2 gallons the OP stated) in such a short period of time, it possible but just doesn't sound right.

I would check the floats and the float valve because it truly sounds like either the floats don't float or the valve is sticking or damaged letting the fuel just run through.

Yes it will just fill the exhaust (and the crankcase) with fuel if the valve is stuck open or damaged.

Im guessing he didn't lose that much fuel,maybe around a gallon since the light comes on when there is a gallon left.