Ok doing the tps was at 800 now down to 642 but I have bent the prong quite a bit do I keep going and the idle screw seems like it affects it going to read more but how many turn in should the idle screw be turned

:) thanks for the shout out,not a problem with any help at all.
you can take out the pair system,wont make ant difference.
which prong are you saying you bent.did you follow the tps mod write up.
as far as i know,you just turn the tps itself,but it shouldnt have to be moved that far that it bends anything.
i was lucky with my carb,the tps was done already.so not sure what you are saying or really looking at since i never took mine apart.

so,about this r1,what is the story behind the r1.it has 40000 miles.
has it ever been in a accident,dropped,low sided etc etc......
is it the original motor,any rebuilds,clean title or salvage title.
it looks nice,why does he want to trade for the banshee
is there anybody you know that knows about r1's and knows what to look for.

He said he got it from an older gentleman. He said that he really just don't care that much for it he said. It runs great no scratches dents dings nothing. He said that he has no where to ride it mostly dirt roads around him. He wants my Banshee cause its done up plus he don't really sound like he's the smartest Guy but he's from Alabama I'm in Indiana so where gonna meet in the middle me with my gun ( you know cause all those Craigslist stories) bit ill be prepaired worst case I drive 6 hours not like it drive 6 hours back bit if it is nice then I will be getting a great deal well see and tps. Forum said to do what I was doing but just feels like I'm going to far plus the idle screw not sure where it is supposed to be set didn't have time to read about it yet

I didn't read all of your posts but glancing at your TPS comments I wanted to chime in real quick. Many of the TPS sensors are far enough off that you can't just turn them to get them down to 500 ohms and one way around this is to open up the holes in the housing more so it can rotate. Just FYI, from what I've read quite a few of us have had to do this.

What I did is pop out the little metal inserts and just take a drill and grind the plastic down a tad and then put the metal inserts back in:

Attachment 24612

The idle screw is set to idle at about 1200 rpm. If you've already moved it around, I would set it just till it touches the throttle cable stop then maybe two turns more for a starting point.

sounds good than,but go to a very public place.
make sure to read up on some laws for carrying in Alabama.i carry myself and always try to know what is what in each state.
check the vin on the bike,make sure its not tampered with,scratched,grinded or repainted,such things as that.
match vin to title,and have dmv number and see if you can do a trace on it or local p.d.
if you can,get the vin on it now,if there is nothing wrong,i would think he would give the vin to you without to much thinking.
you should really bring a friend with you if possible.he may want to test drive,you may want to test drive.
its just not a good mix to go by yourself that far.
just saying.thats a long trip to have any snags.

Yes Saige you are correct thought about all that that's why I set it up to meet him half way outta hos territory and I am going to go with one of my buddies but good idea on gun laws and Vin number those I did t think about I k ow your thinking the same as me its kinda to good to be true and that is why I am trying to hurry up and do this cause if everything is cosure. I'm getting.g a hell of a deal.

Finally got back on the bike thank you 7moore7 achieved 501 on the tps and Saige. And anyone else that wants to chime in my question was opinion r1 or hawk witch should I keep I like my hawk bur I am a Yamaha guys and a r1 is what ice always wanted but I love this hawk and I haven't even rode it yet LOL just something about it and you guys make it a want to keep also

I've had both and personally I'd keep the VTR.
I'm also a Yamaha man, started with the YZF750R before getting the R1.

That's just my preference though, I found the R1 too clinical, and you couldn't thrash it anywhere as it was just so damn quick! the VTR is quick too, nowhere near as fast as the R1 but a lot more usable on the road (for me, anyway)

Bike runs great think I have a lil more tuning to do then will be perfect besides battery issue anyone ever have issues with their bike draining the battery goes dead while I ride lost Rachel then lost speedometers and odometer then lights dimmed then bike died

sounds like the R/R is no good or something is unplugged.
make sure everything is plugged in where all the wires are at underneath the front part of seat.
but chances are,the R/R is done.

That was supposed to say tachometer not Rachel damn phones my smart phone is pretty dumb. But cool thanks Saige man I like this bike its nice except while I was on the side of the road cop came behind me while I was trying to switch batteries with my buddies bike I tried to hide the expired tags but he was smarter than that LOL excuse me sir I need to see thar plate "shit" LOL then do you have your endorsement I said no sir not yet but I knew he couldn't do much didn't catch me in the act of riding so he was cool made me trailer it home gave me a warning ticket for improper display of plate so my first ride on the hawk could have been better but enjoyed every min thanks to all of you that assisted me thanks guys

lol,yea,my first ride on it was magical too.glad to see it running now,just gotta get that charging issue fixed and sound like it be good.

Alright so I'm going to get the r/r so after that what should be some of the first things I should get rather it be more reliable before faster so cct's anything else it needs??

Look at tweety's mosfet R/R thread, don't just go buying a new stock one...

And no, after that just ride the snot out of it. Suspension upgrades are pretty high on the list for most people...

the next thing i would do is the cct's,and while you are doing that,you can take the pair system out.unless you did the pair already.

already did the pair system so didnt get to finish tweetys forum but anyway to just know for sure mosfet r/r or i have to keep reading and figure it out i do like all the info in that frum thought thanks guys

yes,mosfet is the way to go.
ive had the other model upgrade of the R/R with the sh on them.
they work,their good,but do tend to go out.im on my second one and going on 3rd.so get the mosfet if you can.

Great news. K my garage has been smelling like gas I have three four wheelers and my bike fired up the banshee which has a stuck float so It drain.s outta the over flow so I assumed it was that but after three days I decided to check my bike took the two front tank bolts out and what do you know empty did t have much but it was gone brand new petcock shouldn't that have prevented gas from going into the carbs so guess I'm gonna get a float valve and if that don't work assuming I damaged the float valve seat and gotta get new to me carbs. Bike is killing me I want to ride was gonna go get her all leagal today but negative parts and more sitting for the sh but that's where I stand plus the r/r

You need to test the operation of the petcock in order to verify that the repair was successful. If working, the tank will not drain with the engine stopped.

Connect a hose to the drain port on the rear carb and open the drain screw. Allow any fuel to escape into a fuel can. Then pour some gas into the tank and see if more fuel comes rushing out from the drain. It should NOT. Then apply vacuum to the petcock and now fuel should drain. Remove vacuum and flow should stop after a short time. You could use the starter to provide vacuum, or apply vacuum directly to the petcock from another source.

The float not sealing perfectly will waste fuel while riding and make idle and cruise conditions erratic. The float problem will need to be addressed at some point soon, but the petcock is more important and you need to know if it is working.

That's the thing brand new petcock kit and when I pulled the hoses off there was gas coming out of the petcock a lil but could just beleft o er in the hose I will check thought cause I do want to know and also when I tried removing the float valve seats before I k we you couldn't I scraped it put a grove in it but I think I did a decent job cleaning that up do you think I should try a new float valve or say screw it and get another set of carbs

If the seat was damaged, it is possible to resurface the area where the needle makes contact. The problem with this? The hole will be larger, the needle will push further up to make contact with the seat, and the fuel level in the bowl will be too high. This will make the engine run rich under low load conditions.

Since the float level is not adjustable, you would not be able to make it run properly. That is why I suggested replacing the carbs. I know of no other fix. Perhaps someone else may have a way to rig it ?

If you have a float level gauge you could check the float height with a new valve installed and see if it is within specification. If so, you might be OK as long as the valve is sealing completely.

It would be a good idea to order a new valve for each carb, but it may not be required right now.