I recently bought a rear sprocket from supertwinSH (BTW---great doing business with you!! ).
I removed the rear wheel and tried to remove the old sprocket...only one problem...this thing will not budge.
So I thought, I'll get on SuperHawk forum and look up a solution. I performed a search to figure out a better method...and found some. Tried again, and again, and again. Still nothing!
I'm wondering if anybody has some better and more updated methods on how to remove these damn nuts.

Thanks

 

I've found it easier to break the nuts loose before you remove the rear tire. The weight of the bike is usally enoungh to keep it in place as you loosen them but you can always have someone hold a little rear brake pressure if they are really tight.

 

penetrating oil, tap tap tap, penetrating oil, retry. Impact wrench if you can get one but penetrating oil usually works pretty well if given time, impacts.

 

I agree with both of the above. Smack the wrench with a metal hammer as you're trying to turn it.

 

Hell Yea!!!! Got it. Leaving the wheel on the bike worked very well.....and the 15 foot steel pipe helped as well for leverage.

 

+1

Patience helps too. I've used a product at work called Aero Kroil that works really well. Some times if there's rust I'll use WD-40 and tap wrench to break the rust, then Kroil the hell out of it.

Good luck

 

I am an admitted member of the "bigger hammer club". When I tried to get mine off for a simple cleaning last winter I used a 1/2" breaker bar attached to the only metric socket that I had that would fit (which was a 3/8" drive) and promptly destroyed the 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor.

Understand that the socket in question was from a highly regarded US toolmaker and so was the bar. The adaptor was one of those Chinese 500 pieces for $60 cases that we carry in the trucks for breakdowns on jobsites.

I since upgraded my selection of metric tools. I agree with cliby that the penetrating oil and tap, tap, tap - is the best method but it can take days. I watched my Dad and his men do this in the truckstops - especially in the winter. After two or three days of shooting it, they resorted to torches. It was amazing after patiently spraying it, a little heat would do the final magic.

 

well, I see my last post was about a minute too late. ohwell, story of my life

 

Thanks for all the input. It was driving me absolutely insane!

 

silver98hawk;

Not too late for people who read this thread later. Kroil is great stuff.

Sometimes the breaker bar and gobs of torque just snaps the head off the bolt.

Kroil can be purchased over the web as well as the local aircraft supply.

OTC/hardware store stuff like Liquid Wrench now has "environment friendly" formula, which is another way of saying it doesn't work worth a **** anymore.

 

The heat is key. Applying a little heat to a well oiled fastener will cause the oil to spread further into the threads as the fastener expands. Allow it to cool a little bit, then hit it with a 3/8" impact and a well fitting 6 point socket.

 

hehe he said "bafflectomized"

 

Nut? Remove? Run like hell!!!

And that was the light version

 

I like to think of myself as a very innovative person.

 

Well, We had a transmission in that the internal fasteners (torx) were so tight that they would strip the heads out. This is a fastener that had been soaking in transmission lube its whole life. The trick to getting it loose...smash it with a hammer (over exaggerating a little). By smacking it real good a few times, you actually break it loose (clamping force) and allow the bolt to relieve some of its corrosion bond. they broke loose very easily after that. This can be done on brake bleeders, nuts, bolts and pretty much anything else. One place that this pays off big are japanese phillips head bolts on older motorycles.

For nuts, make sure that you are striking the socket, not the stud. You will mushroom the stud and make it that much harder to get the nut off.