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Hi all I have a question about alarms...

Old 01-03-2013, 10:22 PM
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Hi all I have a question about alarms...

I just bought a 98 super hawk and I want to install an alarm with remote start ( The Remote Start is for the cold days )as I have had a bike stolen before.
I'm going to upload the schematics on hope someone can help me figure out how to hook this thing up. I have uploaded a wiring Diagram from the Service/Repair Manual for the bike.
Thanks very much on advance for any assistance.
The diagram is in .jpg


P.S. I can send or link the Service/Repair Manual to anyone that may need it.
Attached Thumbnails Hi all I have a question about alarms...-diagram.jpg   Hi all I have a question about alarms...-diagram2.jpg   Hi all I have a question about alarms...-hawk-wiring-diagram.jpg  

Last edited by Benzo; 01-03-2013 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:46 PM
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Are you thinking that you will use the remote start? Just in case you want to get the heater going for a cold ride?
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:56 PM
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Yes basically..

I want the remote start so I can get it to running temp before I get going on it.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:58 PM
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First how do you plan to pull the choke **** out?
Second, unless you have manual CCTs it's not good form to let the bike idle on the side stand (at least that is the information I have been given)
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:09 PM
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Would it hurt to pull the choke out after I have parked the bike?
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:35 AM
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Lemme get this straight?!

You are uploading two schematics, one for the bike (which we have seen more than once), one for the alarm... Each clear cut, and easy to read... And then you ask us to tell you how to connect it together?

So I have a question for you... Are you always this lazy?

You have the colors for the bike, and you have the colors for the alarm... Match them up, it's that simple... Seriously, it is...
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:09 AM
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First of all, according to the schematics the colors are different, second of all lazy,no just being cautious. I'd rather not burn up the bikes electrical system by hooking it up incorrectly. Example : the pink wire accor ding up the hawks manual that is for the thermostat sensor and according to the alarm it is for the engine off from the lock. There are more than just the one color mismatch aswell I'm not good enough to know which one to actually hook it to so I thought of ask more knowledgable people than myself.

Last edited by Benzo; 01-04-2013 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzo View Post
First of all, according to the schematics the colors are different, second of all lazy,no just being cautious. I'd rather not burn up the bikes electrical system by hooking it up incorrectly.
Yeah, they are different... Brilliant deduction... If you think I meant match yellow to yellow and so on, try reading what I said again...

Cautious would mean you looked at both schematics, spending the 5 minutes or so, finding what color matches what, and then asking, "color this to color that, color that to this, is that correct?"

Lazy, is saying, "I have these two lists of colors of what goes to where... Can you tell me what they say, I'm to lazy to read myself..." Which is what you did... Hence, my assesment is still that you are lazy...

You can either accept that I think you are (where?) lazy... Or get help from a local company... They will charge you $ for the time they spend... On these forums in general, you get the same help and knowledge for free in terms of $, but it instead costs you some effort on your own... Ie, I'm not going to spoonfeed you infirmation that you already have... Someone else on here might, I dunno... However, if you spend the effort, I can promise you that any follow up questions you have, I'll make my best effort to help you out...

And in terms of "not burning" things up, if I instead re-interpret your question, to say "if I apply these two lists of colors to each other, will that be potentially harmfull?", then the answer is "no, it's not harmfull"... Identify the correct cable for each function, and nothing will be harmed at all...

Both schematics are very easy to read, very clear with no potential for mistakes... The correct answer to your question is to find the matching color for the function described on the alarm schematic, and hook the cable too it... I'll start you off with one of the basic one's and you can continue yourself... Ground on the VTR is green or in a few places green with a black stripe...

And when you have your list of corresponding colors, post it, and I'll gladly check it for potential errors...
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:33 AM
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If your alarm also has an immobiliser make sure you have recovery insurance, as it will at some point leave you inconveniently stranded ;-)
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:36 AM
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I have looked an am looking at the schematics now and trust me when I say asking for help is the last thing I wanted to do especially knowing there is always someone like you waiting to be condescending to anyone asking for help. I'm not asking to be spoonfed anything and the last thing I wanted was to get into a pissing contest with someone that obviously knows more about this than I do. I asked for any type of assistance so thanks for the amount you did attempt to help.

I was also planning on editing the service manual schematic by "matching" the colors and posting it on here for other people that would need it as there are several alarms using the same wiring scheme.

Last edited by Benzo; 01-04-2013 at 04:50 AM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicky View Post
If your alarm also has an immobiliser make sure you have recovery insurance, as it will at some point leave you inconveniently stranded ;-)
Lol, will do...
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzo View Post
I have looked an am looking at the schematics now and trust me when I say asking for help is the last thing I wanted to do especially knowing there is always someone like you waiting to be condescending to anyone asking for help. I'm not asking to be spoonfed anything and the last thing I wanted was to get into a pissing contest with someone that obviously knows more about this than I do. I asked for any type of assistance so thanks for the amount you did attempt to help.

I was also planning on editing the service manual schematic by "matching" the colors and posting it on here for other people that would need it as there are several alarms using the same wiring scheme.
Is the air thin up there? It must be...

No, I wasn't condescending... I gave you the correct answer to your question, more than once... I was merely informing you that if you want assistance, around here it takes some effort on your own... If you did read both diagrams before posting I don't know, you didn't say... If you did, you already had the answer... Had you like I said asked us to confirm the info you had read out, my answer would have been polar opposite...

Once that hurdle is over, I'm happy to help... Please take into account, that the "new guy syndrome" around here is, "I have this issue, it's well covered, well documented, but I can't be arsed to read old posts/documentation or search... Now tell me what is wrong in my particular case..." And it's getting a bit old... So, with you posting the answer along with the question, well... It pushed my buttons...

If you like, and arent offended by the assistance, click here Tweety's Wild Thinking and you can download a version of the wiring scheme with colors... Makes it a bit easier to read than the multitude of grey lines...

FYI, in fact all alarms will use that wiring scheme, as it's more of a practical matter, they need those signals to work, and they are all hooking into the turnsignals for feedback...

But they rarely have the same colors in their own part of the harness from one manufacturer to the other, or even from the same manufacturer... So, that specific list will be of limited use with that specific list of colors...

To make it universally usefull, you could instead just make a "shortlist" of the signals that an alarm hooks into by their function and color of wire on the VTR... Then matching to the particular alarm is still up to the next guy, but it saves having to trace a diagram perhaps... Just a suggestion...
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety View Post
Is the air thin up there? It must be...

No, I wasn't condescending... I gave you the correct answer to your question, more than once... I was merely informing you that if you want assistance, around here it takes some effort on your own... If you did read both diagrams before posting I don't know, you didn't say... If you did, you already had the answer... Had you like I said asked us to confirm the info you had read out, my answer would have been polar opposite...

Once that hurdle is over, I'm happy to help... Please take into account, that the "new guy syndrome" around here is, "I have this issue, it's well covered, well documented, but I can't be arsed to read old posts/documentation or search... Now tell me what is wrong in my particular case..." And it's getting a bit old... So, with you posting the answer along with the question, well... It pushed my buttons...

If you like, and arent offended by the assistance, click here *Tweety's Wild Thinking and you can download a version of the wiring scheme with colors... Makes it a bit easier to read than the multitude of grey lines...

FYI, in fact all alarms will use that wiring scheme, as it's more of a practical matter, they need those signals to work, and they are all hooking into the turnsignals for feedback...

But they rarely have the same colors in their own part of the harness from one manufacturer to the other, or even from the same manufacturer... So, that specific list will be of limited use with that specific list of colors...

To make it universally usefull, you could instead just make a "shortlist" of the signals that an alarm hooks into by their function and color of wire on the VTR... Then matching to the particular alarm is still up to the next guy, but it saves having to trace a diagram perhaps... Just a suggestion...
Thank you, the colored schematic makes much more sense to me. There is also more detail in the descriptions.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:57 AM
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I know this is probably a stupid question as I think I already know the answer, but should I splice before the fuse box or after? It would make more sense to do it before ( going in to the fuse box ) so to avoid irregular voltage to the other components..I just need to make sure.

Err.. Current actually.

Last edited by Benzo; 01-04-2013 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:16 AM
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You're talking about splicing the (+) before the fuse box, correct? The way I understand it, you want to connect to all the wires after the fuse box as they are just signal wires, and connect the (+) to the battery, making sure to add an in-line fuse when you do this. So you can connect to most of the wires right up near the triple clamp and don't have to run separate ones all the way back to the computer (excepting the (+) and ground).

And I wouldn't take 8541Hawk's advice lightly... idling on side stand may not be good for the bike, and you only need it running for like 30 seconds before you don't need choke and can ride it... just go easy the first 5 minutes (your tires will need it anyway...)
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:30 AM
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Ok Here is what I have so far...

Alright..should the wiring go as follows:
Red from alarm to positive battery terminal
Orange from alarm to the red/black at the ignition switch
Blue from alarm to the yellow/red going to the starter relay
Yellow from the alarm to the lighr blu of the right turn signal
Other Yellow from the alarm to the orange of the left turn signal
And of course the black from the negative to the negative terminal on the battery.
The pink and gray splice to the same wire in series just not sure which wire though.

Does this seem correct?
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 7moore7 View Post
You're talking about splicing the (+) before the fuse box, correct? The way I understand it, you want to connect to all the wires after the fuse box as they are just signal wires, and connect the (+) to the battery, making sure to add an in-line fuse when you do this. So you can connect to most of the wires right up near the triple clamp and don't have to run separate ones all the way back to the computer (excepting the (+) and ground).

And I wouldn't take 8541Hawk's advice lightly... idling on side stand may not be good for the bike, and you only need it running for like 30 seconds before you don't need choke and can ride it... just go easy the first 5 minutes (your tires will need it anyway...)
I believe you are right... I was thinking of the direction backwards from ignition to battery not from battery to ignition.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:42 AM
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I don't take anyones advice lightly especially when they know so much more than I do, It would normally under proper circumstances take only 30 secs and with any luck after this weekend it will only take mine but that long.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:44 AM
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The black does not need to go to the terminal on the battery, and in fact it shouldn't. It is a ground so can connect to any metal on your frame/motor. If you look at the negative terminal on your battery, it just has one thick wire that connects to your engine block, and so grounds the whole frame/motor.

So, in a visual sense, the electricity has many routes to "flow" back to the negative on the battery through the engine block/frame. The flow goes through each specific (+) wire but all roads lead to Rome when it's completing the loop to the battery. This is how all 12v vehicle systems work, and is why you disconnect the negative terminal first when working b/c it disconnects the whole system.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 7moore7 View Post
The black does not need to go to the terminal on the battery, and in fact it shouldn't. It is a ground so can connect to any metal on your frame/motor. If you look at the negative terminal on your battery, it just has one thick wire that connects to your engine block, and so grounds the whole frame/motor.

So, in a visual sense, the electricity has many routes to "flow" back to the negative on the battery through the engine block/frame. The flow goes through each specific (+) wire but all roads lead to Rome when it's completing the loop to the battery. This is how all 12v vehicle systems work, and is why you disconnect the negative terminal first when working b/c it disconnects the whole system.
You are absolutely correct, Thx for reminding me..it has been years since I have done any type or automobile service work..not since I had my 81 Camaro Z28 in high school..lol
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Benzo View Post
Alright..should the wiring go as follows:
Red from alarm to positive battery terminal
Orange from alarm to the red/black at the ignition switch
Blue from alarm to the yellow/red going to the starter relay
Yellow from the alarm to the lighr blu of the right turn signal
Other Yellow from the alarm to the orange of the left turn signal
And of course the black from the negative to the negative terminal on the battery.
The pink and gray splice to the same wire in series just not sure which wire though.

Does this seem correct?
It does indeed seem to be correct so far...

Black to a green ground cable around the cluster should suffice though, as mentioned...

Actually, the pink and grey ones are a bit more tricky... It has me scratching my head a bit... I think we need some more info, something that's hopefully in the manual for your alarm...

Are the wire part of the protection mode? Then it's a problem since the ignition swith on the VTR doesn't have a separate signal for that...

Or ar they just so that you can remotely kill the bike in conjunction with remote start, ie kill it, but not arm the system?

If that's the case, it's easier... Then the black/white cable from the kill switch would be the correct one... Ie, it only turns the engine off...

BTW, i just realized I'm overthinking it... It really doesn't matter much... As long as you hide the wiring well, and as long as that part of the alarm is an opening switch, ie with the bike running the circuit is closed, and as you hit the kill switch, or arm the system after a bike napping, the system open the circuit, just like the killswitch does... Ie, that's the correct cable...

Last edited by Tweety; 01-04-2013 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:44 PM
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Yes, I believe the pink and gray wires are for a kill switch, directions are seriously lacking they call it a flame out lol... Damn chinese can make or copy anything except the engrish rangruage. No offense meant to anyone.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Tweety View Post
It does indeed seem to be correct so far...

Black to a green ground cable around the cluster should suffice though, as mentioned...

Actually, the pink and grey ones are a bit more tricky... It has me scratching my head a bit... I think we need some more info, something that's hopefully in the manual for your alarm...

Are the wire part of the protection mode? Then it's a problem since the ignition swith on the VTR doesn't have a separate signal for that...

Or ar they just so that you can remotely kill the bike in conjunction with remote start, ie kill it, but not arm the system?

If that's the case, it's easier... Then the black/white cable from the kill switch would be the correct one... Ie, it only turns the engine off...

BTW, i just realized I'm overthinking it... It really doesn't matter much... As long as you hide the wiring well, and as long as that part of the alarm is an opening switch, ie with the bike running the circuit is closed, and as you hit the kill switch, or arm the system after a bike napping, the system open the circuit, just like the killswitch does... Ie, that's the correct cable...
Ok, I see.. I was thinking that it would go to the black/white wire from the kill switch.


I apologize for the bad start we had in forum and I greatly appreciate your assistance.

Last edited by Benzo; 01-04-2013 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by VTRsurfer View Post
No... but it would hurt to leave the choke on for several minutes while warming up the bike. Honda recommends not leaving the choke on for more than 30 seconds. The problem is that you will start washing the oil off the cylinder walls.

If you think you'll get that cold sitting still warming the bike up for a couple minutes, what happens once you get moving, and wind chill is a factor? I'd think that would be more of a concern.
Not that I would be cold it's just getting the bike to operating temp before I actually get on it to go....and I've decided that cranking isn't as much of a concern as the kill switch and keyless driving..
One more think concerning the washing the oil off the piston walls..My bike is currently running lean (due to the fact that the pilot jets need to be adjusted) and in order to not get it to stutter in the lower gears meaning first & second I have to run the bike with the choke slightly out will this hurt the bike any?
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:10 AM
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Also these bikes are not old school air cooled machines. They do not require a long "warm up".

On mine, I start the bike, then put on my helmet and gloves and go. That is all mine has even needed in the close to 100K miles it has on it.

So IMHO there is really no need or reason to let the bike sit and idle for long periods of time.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by VTRsurfer View Post
If you need choke to ride, even after a driveway warmup, you really should do some carb work. Even a cleaning would probably help. Check the Carb setup thread by 8541Hawk. And if it's that lean, no you're probably not doing any damage for the first mile or so.

As far as riding with the choke on, don't do what I did about 25 years ago. I woke up late and had to get to work, so instead of warming up my CB700SC Nighthawk S for a minute in the driveway, I just cranked the choke lever all the way and took off, thinking I'd turn the choke off at the stop sign at the end of the street.

I rode 35 miles up the freeway, noticing that when I slowed to split lanes at one point, it ran rough. When I got to work and put it on the sidestand, it stalled. At lunch time I pulled a spark plug and noticed it was way rich. "Light Bulb!" I looked at the choke lever on the left bar, and it was still cranked wide open... Doooh!!!
I've only had the bike about 2 weeks and I asked the guy I bought it from about the carbs he said they had been completely redone about 2 years ago and the only thing that need to be adjusted was the pilot jet screws and that he never bothered with it beause he never rode down there in those gears much anyway..and that the only thing to remedy the stuttering issue until I could get them adjusted was to ride with the choke slightly out.. not much at all.
If I go any distance like on a highway where im not in the lower gears I take the choke completely off.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
Also these bikes are not old school air cooled machines. They do not require a long "warm up".

On mine, I start the bike, then put on my helmet and gloves and go. That is all mine has even needed in the close to 100K miles it has on it.

So IMHO there is really no need or reason to let the bike sit and idle for long periods of time.
Wow, 100k that answers the question as to how long the engine will probably last with proper upkeep.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzo View Post
I've only had the bike about 2 weeks and I asked the guy I bought it from about the carbs he said they had been completely redone about 2 years ago and the only thing that need to be adjusted was the pilot jet screws and that he never bothered with it beause he never rode down there in those gears much anyway..and that the only thing to remedy the stuttering issue until I could get them adjusted was to ride with the choke slightly out.. not much at all.
If I go any distance like on a highway where im not in the lower gears I take the choke completely off.
On these bikes the choke really isn't a choke... It's an enrichment circuit, so basically, what it does is add more fuel, needed or not...

I'd just fix the problem instead if I where in your shoes... It doesn't really take that much time... It helps a lot if you have a special tool, but it's not neccesary, you can get by using a small socket and extensions to a hexbit...
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:41 PM
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Hey benzo, if I may interject. Have you ever seen the empire strikes back? The character yoda? Very wise and skilled but critical of lukes youth and stupidity? Thats kinda like tweety on here.

Usually on these forums, you can tell by # of posts someones meddle. Both for him and you.

What alarm is it.?
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
Hey benzo, if I may interject. Have you ever seen the empire strikes back? The character yoda? Very wise and skilled but critical of lukes youth and stupidity? Thats kinda like tweety on here.

Usually on these forums, you can tell by # of posts someones meddle. Both for him and you.

What alarm is it.?
Yeah I kinda figured that out about Tweets we have mended or forum issue and I have nothing but respect for you all and your knowledge...it is an alarm king system really low cost but good reviews. 2 way paging, auto start, kill switch, keyless driving and tamper alarm.
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