Wow isosuo, nice pics. I agree lathe is better but more people have dremels and it can be done easier with the dremel than by hand. Also I found that the dimensions dont have to be duplicated since its a cable system and can be adjusted (slack) elsewhere like a throttle.

 

Isosuo- Well done, man. Those drawings are very nice.

Looking at them I can remember now what I had to do, too. The little inner lip that is created by the hole closest to the carb (identified as dimension "b" in the Polaris cross section and dimension "d" in the original part cross section) is important. It retains the spring that pushes the choke needle back into the carb assembly.

So when drilling/lathing/dremeling out the threads don't remove all of them. I don't think the depth has to be super precise b/c they are all just retention features. Most of the time your choke won't be on anyway.

Once again, nice drawings...

 

So I have broke one of those damn little plastic pieces. Thought I would get a new choke cable rather than drive all across town to find a Polaris dealer. Folks seem to think the Honda part was like $30. But my local Honda dealer wanted $52.50 for the damn thing. So now I figure I'll hqve to do a quick search on line for the part or brave Portland (Oreegon) traffic and go find the Polaris dealer... what a pain

 

The polaris part takes a little modifying, if that changes your decision at all

 

You can sorta doctor the broken piece with zip ties til you get a replacement. I rode for months like that just be sure its not choking that carb.

The polaris piece just needs to be filed/ dremmeled thinner to fit. If you buy a honda piece its pretty likely to break again & make you doubly mad.

 

$23.67 VALVE SET, STARTER - Search : 16046-MBB-640

7-10 working days is what I normally get from Ronayers. I order monthly from them.

 

Yea, I'm pretty much itch'en to get my VTR running again after not following the directions in another post about how to properly install manual CCT (my bad). Was in the process of putting it all back together. Had the front cylinder head back on after - uh - tweaking the exhaust valves. Carb install was going fine until...

SO... zip ties, huh. I keep this up and it'll start to look like my Kawasaki GPz 750

 

I'll look when I get home from work.. and see if I kept the steel replacment part I made when I broke a plastic one... Used it for several weeks while I waited on a replacment one from Honda.

If I still have it, your welcome to it while you get a better replacment.

 

I've done the zip ties before effectively FWIW

 

I did a bit more looking. I think the dealer was looking at the entire choke cable assembly. Not just the "Valve Set, Starter" that E.Marquez mentions. That would explain it being twice the price I was expecting. So I'll be ordering some thing from somewhere. Just have to suck it up and accept it.

Seems I have to take the carbs out again anyhow. I think I pinched the O-ring that fits in the coolant housing that attaches to the front cylinder under the front carb. Just a wee bit of coolant leaking all over the place. So it'll be another couple of days before I can do anything anyhow.

Working on these things will teach you patients if nothing else...

 

Phoned Polaris dealer yesterday and got new fittings on order. Should be in Thursday. No rush on this as I broke the coolant line housing that bolts to the front cylinder head (chaep pot metal). Ordered that from Honda. Should also be in on Thursday.

So we'll see if I can keep from screwing anything else up once I get all the new parts.

 

ahhhh did this same thing last night. why they made them from plastic i dont know! ordered up the choke assembly at about $35 plus shipping. so i can run the bike with the front carb choke piece not fitted yes?

 

I haven't tried running my bike with either "choke piece" removed but I don't think it would be a good idea. The starting enrichment circuit operates when the choke **** is pulled out. This causes the plungers in the carburettors to retract. Running the bike without the plunger fully inserted in the bore is the same as running the bike with the choke on.

 

Well whats the zip tie method? I don't see how I could use a zip tie to make that work

 

Tiny hose clamps work too.

Just get the polaris pieces, its sinch to do and you can "machine" them with a nailfile while watching tv if you want.

 

I don't get it. The piece the carb cable threads into isn't just round all the way around. There's no way a hose clamp or zip tie could mate the two.... Unless I'm understanding you wrong

 

I already ordered choke cables (before I found out about the Polaris part) but I just finished the install of the JE pistons and I'm dying to fire her up for the first time. Just gotta get this stupid choke thing sorted first

 

Really? Having done several sets,.. I don't know how one would make the required modifications with a nail file..

Please youtube this process.. Love to see you do that.. No really....Lets see it.

Here is how I do it
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...etainer-29791/

 

I am talking about filing down the polaris metal tubes to fit into the carb. I used a dremel but you could do it with a file.

I dont have a lathe but performed the same operation. You can for sure file it. Lathe or dremel is quicker.

 

There are brass or titanium choke fitting replacements around...

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...829_170713.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...830_134612.jpg

 

Cool..
how did you counterbore the polaris part to fit the cable ferrule with a dremel ?Small grinding tip?
(and how would one do that with a file?)

Not talking down the idea at all... just looking for the how, so if someone want to try and file or dremel their own.... they know how it was done.

 

Absolutely

post #7 in that other thread I linked to
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...91/#post349001