Has anyone had a rear CCT go bad?
Has anyone had a rear CCT go bad?
It sounds like every failure is the front. I tore mine down and it holds true. I'm thinking about puting an APE on the front and leaving the rear alone. I'm just trying to save some time and money obviously. Also before I pull the front head off, I'm thinking if I check valve clearance and it's still good I didn't bend the valves and I can just retime and put on the APE. Any thoughts?
On the Swedish forums we have seen one failure with both going, but none where the rear only has gone... On here I have only heard of fronts failing...
So I'd say that would be a no...
BUT... it's not that much money or time... I'd do both at the same time...
So I'd say that would be a no...
BUT... it's not that much money or time... I'd do both at the same time...
Both going? What a disaster. Yeah I probably should just put APEs on both, but it seems to be just a for the sake of matching on the rear cylinder. Any thoughts on checking valve clearance to determine bent valves? It seems valid to me, but I've never had to deal with engine internals beofre.
The rear is actually the much easier of the two, so might as well do them both. Checking valve clearance is a good idea while it's all apart. I'm not sure if it will tell you about a bent valve or not though. What was the original problem?
rear cct going bad
Yes it can happen. It happened to me just 2 weeks ago. ordered 2 ape cct. just yesterday went to install the rear. chain skipped teeth, timing was all out of wack. retimed it was an all day affair the manual is not that great I thought. It took three brains to figure out, as none of us ever had to retime a superhawk before we finally figured it out as per the book said. Put it all together and realized I didnt get off so easily bad exhaust valve tapping. Lots of sputtering and backfiring definetly not running smooth. Any one know where to get some good Quality valves or what make is reputable.
How many miles, please?
Yes it can happen. It happened to me just 2 weeks ago. ordered 2 ape cct. just yesterday went to install the rear. chain skipped teeth, timing was all out of wack. retimed it was an all day affair the manual is not that great I thought. It took three brains to figure out, as none of us ever had to retime a superhawk before we finally figured it out as per the book said. Put it all together and realized I didnt get off so easily bad exhaust valve tapping. Lots of sputtering and backfiring definetly not running smooth. Any one know where to get some good Quality valves or what make is reputable.

Try a leakdown test if you have access to an air compressor, even a slightly bent valve won't seal properly and will show. Slightly bent valves could still be in specs, but will be tighter.
Here's mine,
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=680940
Try a .030" or even a .025" wire welding tip for even more resolution, just tap the threads, the drilled hole lacks precision IMO
Here's mine,
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=680940
Try a .030" or even a .025" wire welding tip for even more resolution, just tap the threads, the drilled hole lacks precision IMO
Try a leakdown test if you have access to an air compressor, even a slightly bent valve won't seal properly and will show. Slightly bent valves could still be in specs, but will be tighter.
Here's mine,
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=680940
Try a .030" or even a .025" wire welding tip for even more resolution, just tap the threads, the drilled hole lacks precision IMO
Here's mine,
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=680940
Try a .030" or even a .025" wire welding tip for even more resolution, just tap the threads, the drilled hole lacks precision IMO
Did the engine rotate freely? If not, the valves are obviously bent. If you do not have access to a leak-down tester, remove the head and spray a bit of carb cleaner in the intake and exhaust ports. Take a look at the valve side of the head... a small (and I mean small) amount of fluid getting past the valve is normal, anything more means bent valves (It's usually the exhaust valves that get whacked). I'm currently working on a '98 that suffered a rear tensioner failure. So although the fronts are most likely to go... the rears do go as well.
The E34 is dead sadly, but I'm keeping the engine (Aluminium 3.0 V8 4 cams 32 valves) diff and many goodies for future projects.
I'm checking out the forced induction section once in a while but don't post much there these days. My girlfriend cousin (gnarfy) has a E36 M3 turbocharged that I drove this summer, that's the most powerful car I drove to this time, first gear is useless, second is good with care and you can floor it on 3rd on the straights
For your cylinder head, I figure that while you are in there, cam timing all messed up, taking off the chain and taking the head off is a minor job compared to get there, you will see the dent in the piston and you will be able to check if it scruff the cylinder, hairline cracks. New valves, guides some seat refresh, lapping compound from a good engine shop will make you sleep better at night and make this thing last forever.
I'm checking out the forced induction section once in a while but don't post much there these days. My girlfriend cousin (gnarfy) has a E36 M3 turbocharged that I drove this summer, that's the most powerful car I drove to this time, first gear is useless, second is good with care and you can floor it on 3rd on the straights
For your cylinder head, I figure that while you are in there, cam timing all messed up, taking off the chain and taking the head off is a minor job compared to get there, you will see the dent in the piston and you will be able to check if it scruff the cylinder, hairline cracks. New valves, guides some seat refresh, lapping compound from a good engine shop will make you sleep better at night and make this thing last forever.
Yeah, I've resigned myself to pulling the head off. So I'll be able to inspect everything. I need to get new CCTs ordered as well. Looks like it's time to spend some money on this thing. Okay, 2 APE CTCs and gaskets, a head gasket, either new valves etc. or taking it to a shop to rebuild it for me, new plugs while I have everything apart.
Any other suggestions or am I forgeting something?
Any other suggestions or am I forgeting something?
No warning or noise before it broke. Believe it or not wasn't riding hard at the time. Heard it when I stopped at a stop sign but didn't notice anything prior to that. It's a 98 superhawk with right around 23,000 miles. Last year my friend cct went bad on a cbr 600 f4i, maybe 14,000-15,000 miles but he did have notice that it was going bad.
well isnt this funny
Seems i am the unlucky guy that just paid 2400 for his headache.
O-well live and learn.
you didn't get off lucky and suppose neither did I
is there anything else I should know about the bike?
???
O-well live and learn.
you didn't get off lucky and suppose neither did I
is there anything else I should know about the bike?
???
he just said that he changed the rear cct, nothing about the f-up or why he changed only the rear one.
guess for 2400 i cant really argue, got a bunch of good bits with the bike.
just upset that I had to find out after the fact.
bike was a bit dirty, 24k on her
still she pulls hard and seems that i am finding the low speed jets are gummed up or not correct size, (he did a jet kit too)
after a week of ownership and 200 miles she is telling me a better story and soon enough will have her running like a fine tuned machine.
guess for 2400 i cant really argue, got a bunch of good bits with the bike.
just upset that I had to find out after the fact.
bike was a bit dirty, 24k on her
still she pulls hard and seems that i am finding the low speed jets are gummed up or not correct size, (he did a jet kit too)
after a week of ownership and 200 miles she is telling me a better story and soon enough will have her running like a fine tuned machine.
The stock #45 slow (pilot) jets are tiny and plug up easily. My bike never sat without being ridden for more than one week and I only use top tier gas, and I had a completely plugged pilot jet in #2 last March, which caused a dead misfire. If you haven't done so yet, you might add pulling the carbs apart and doing a thorough cleaning, including soaking the pilot jets then blowing them out, to your list of projects.
VTRsurfer
hit the nail on the head is what you did
a carbotamy is in the plans for tomorrow!!!
after letting the bike do the takin, I am going with the carb clean and check the size of the jets (former owner did jet kit) this I fiure is a good start
As well I hit the VTR lotto tonight
2 brother carbon pipes, stock pipes, fender, tank, tail, left side plastic, and other misc bits for 200!! Holy crap!!!!!!!and the guy selling was a super nice guy to boot!! duck hypermoto in garage behind the 100k roadster, orig mini right hand drive cooper in driveway
this guy knows how to live!!!!!
thanks again guys, with all the crap in my life its nice to know that there are Nice people out there
hit the nail on the head is what you did
a carbotamy is in the plans for tomorrow!!!
after letting the bike do the takin, I am going with the carb clean and check the size of the jets (former owner did jet kit) this I fiure is a good start
As well I hit the VTR lotto tonight
2 brother carbon pipes, stock pipes, fender, tank, tail, left side plastic, and other misc bits for 200!! Holy crap!!!!!!!and the guy selling was a super nice guy to boot!! duck hypermoto in garage behind the 100k roadster, orig mini right hand drive cooper in driveway
this guy knows how to live!!!!!
thanks again guys, with all the crap in my life its nice to know that there are Nice people out there
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