Fuel Tank Lift Method
04-13-2011, 10:14 AM
#1
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SuperBike
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
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Fuel Tank Lift Method
In the thread I linked here, there's a description of how to lift the front of your fuel tank with strap.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ank-off-20834/
While the method described makes sense and I'd like to use it, there's a metal tab on the back of my tank that I think would prevent the tank from pivoting up that high.
Am I overlooking something, or is there more than one tank design?
I have a 2002.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ank-off-20834/
While the method described makes sense and I'd like to use it, there's a metal tab on the back of my tank that I think would prevent the tank from pivoting up that high.
Am I overlooking something, or is there more than one tank design?
I have a 2002.
04-13-2011, 10:39 AM
#2
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
In the thread I linked here, there's a description of how to lift the front of your fuel tank with strap.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ank-off-20834/
While the method described makes sense and I'd like to use it, there's a metal tab on the back of my tank that I think would prevent the tank from pivoting up that high.
Am I overlooking something, or is there more than one tank design?
I have a 2002.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ank-off-20834/
While the method described makes sense and I'd like to use it, there's a metal tab on the back of my tank that I think would prevent the tank from pivoting up that high.
Am I overlooking something, or is there more than one tank design?
I have a 2002.
Without it, you are correct, it won't work at all... You could duplicate it though, but it needs to be strong...
04-13-2011, 02:10 PM
#5
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Well, if you have the original tool-kit for the bike, it contains a "U" shaped piece made from the same stock as an allen key... That piece goes in the hole for the rear bolt, and allows you to lift the tank, and pivot it back...
Without it, you are correct, it won't work at all... You could duplicate it though, but it needs to be strong...
Without it, you are correct, it won't work at all... You could duplicate it though, but it needs to be strong...
Thanks
04-13-2011, 06:26 PM
#7
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
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My bike's P.O. "modified" the air box lid & snorkel with what may well have been a bench grinder... or some medieval tools. I got an unmodified lid from a forum member to replace it with so it'll be a good opportunity to try this out.
04-14-2011, 02:21 PM
#8
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Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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Well, if you have the original tool-kit for the bike, it contains a "U" shaped piece made from the same stock as an allen key... That piece goes in the hole for the rear bolt, and allows you to lift the tank, and pivot it back...
Without it, you are correct, it won't work at all... You could duplicate it though, but it needs to be strong...
Without it, you are correct, it won't work at all... You could duplicate it though, but it needs to be strong...
04-14-2011, 02:38 PM
#9
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
But then again, you are male, so no reading manuals... I just broke the rules and read it since it pissed me off not knowing what it was for...
04-17-2011, 05:49 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sudbury ON
Posts: 155
The method of lifting the front of the tank is a good one for certain applications, however to make it easier to remove the gas tank, cut the 2 gas lines in an accessible location i.e. approximately 10" (25cmm) from the end of the hoses and installed quick disconnects. Those 2 lines were always a pain in the *** to remove or install. Don't make the mistake I made of shortening the hoses to make up for the length of the quick disconnects, the extra length is helpful in getting your hands in there.
The next time you do a carb sync, add a T splitter to the vacuum lines going to the carbs and run 2 short lines off the T to the right side of the engine. Tie wrap them together to make a neat job. The lines are always accessible for syncing the carbs without removing anything. I simply insert fine thread screws in the end of the hoses to prevent a vacuum leak.
As for the carb sync tool, insert 2 small restrictors in the lines to smooth out the movement.
The next time you do a carb sync, add a T splitter to the vacuum lines going to the carbs and run 2 short lines off the T to the right side of the engine. Tie wrap them together to make a neat job. The lines are always accessible for syncing the carbs without removing anything. I simply insert fine thread screws in the end of the hoses to prevent a vacuum leak.
As for the carb sync tool, insert 2 small restrictors in the lines to smooth out the movement.
04-17-2011, 06:03 PM
#12
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
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The method of lifting the front of the tank is a good one for certain applications, however to make it easier to remove the gas tank, cut the 2 gas lines in an accessible location i.e. approximately 10" (25cmm) from the end of the hoses and installed quick disconnects. Those 2 lines were always a pain in the *** to remove or install. Don't make the mistake I made of shortening the hoses to make up for the length of the quick disconnects, the extra length is helpful in getting your hands in there.
The next time you do a carb sync, add a T splitter to the vacuum lines going to the carbs and run 2 short lines off the T to the right side of the engine. Tie wrap them together to make a neat job. The lines are always accessible for syncing the carbs without removing anything. I simply insert fine thread screws in the end of the hoses to prevent a vacuum leak.
As for the carb sync tool, insert 2 small restrictors in the lines to smooth out the movement.
The next time you do a carb sync, add a T splitter to the vacuum lines going to the carbs and run 2 short lines off the T to the right side of the engine. Tie wrap them together to make a neat job. The lines are always accessible for syncing the carbs without removing anything. I simply insert fine thread screws in the end of the hoses to prevent a vacuum leak.
As for the carb sync tool, insert 2 small restrictors in the lines to smooth out the movement.
Thank you for that experience. I had thought about quick disconnects for tank removal, but the strap method yesterday was a "bird in the hand" for a job I needed to do. Where did you find the Q/Ds if I may ask?
Not sure I follow the carb synch advice exactly in my manual but I basically get your drift. Once a set of synch vacuum tubes are in, leave them in place blocked off. The blocked off tee would work on the rear vaccum line since it signals the petcock, but I think I would just add a permanent line to the front port where the little blocking bolt normally goes and plug it without a tee?
04-17-2011, 11:06 PM
#13
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Thank you for that experience. I had thought about quick disconnects for tank removal, but the strap method yesterday was a "bird in the hand" for a job I needed to do. Where did you find the Q/Ds if I may ask?
Not sure I follow the carb synch advice exactly in my manual but I basically get your drift. Once a set of synch vacuum tubes are in, leave them in place blocked off. The blocked off tee would work on the rear vaccum line since it signals the petcock, but I think I would just add a permanent line to the front port where the little blocking bolt normally goes and plug it without a tee?
Not sure I follow the carb synch advice exactly in my manual but I basically get your drift. Once a set of synch vacuum tubes are in, leave them in place blocked off. The blocked off tee would work on the rear vaccum line since it signals the petcock, but I think I would just add a permanent line to the front port where the little blocking bolt normally goes and plug it without a tee?
04-18-2011, 02:43 AM
#14
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SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 1,707
I use a 14" 1x1 legth of timber as a tank prop - plus installed quick release fittings for the vacuum and breather hoses - and added more easily accessible splitters to the fuel hoses (make sure the ID bore is the same as the fuel hose)
Pics MobileMe Gallery
Pics MobileMe Gallery
The method of lifting the front of the tank is a good one for certain applications, however to make it easier to remove the gas tank, cut the 2 gas lines in an accessible location i.e. approximately 10" (25cmm) from the end of the hoses and installed quick disconnects. Those 2 lines were always a pain in the *** to remove or install. Don't make the mistake I made of shortening the hoses to make up for the length of the quick disconnects, the extra length is helpful in getting your hands in there.
The next time you do a carb sync, add a T splitter to the vacuum lines going to the carbs and run 2 short lines off the T to the right side of the engine. Tie wrap them together to make a neat job. The lines are always accessible for syncing the carbs without removing anything. I simply insert fine thread screws in the end of the hoses to prevent a vacuum leak.
As for the carb sync tool, insert 2 small restrictors in the lines to smooth out the movement.
The next time you do a carb sync, add a T splitter to the vacuum lines going to the carbs and run 2 short lines off the T to the right side of the engine. Tie wrap them together to make a neat job. The lines are always accessible for syncing the carbs without removing anything. I simply insert fine thread screws in the end of the hoses to prevent a vacuum leak.
As for the carb sync tool, insert 2 small restrictors in the lines to smooth out the movement.
04-18-2011, 03:29 AM
#15
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,478
I use a 14" 1x1 legth of timber as a tank prop - plus installed quick release fittings for the vacuum and breather hoses - and added more easily accessible splitters to the fuel hoses (make sure the ID bore is the same as the fuel hose)
Pics MobileMe Gallery
Pics MobileMe Gallery
04-18-2011, 08:33 AM
#16
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SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 1,707
I 'borrowed' the petcock lever off a Honda XL1000V Varadero.
The problem with quick realeas couplings I could find that the O'rings* weren't rated for gasoline plus I couldn't readily find any that were 10mm ID bore to match the fuel hoses. So I just used what I could find and used for breathers and vacuum.
* Viton seals needed for fuel. There are apparently some large bore quick-release connectors but very pricey!
The problem with quick realeas couplings I could find that the O'rings* weren't rated for gasoline plus I couldn't readily find any that were 10mm ID bore to match the fuel hoses. So I just used what I could find and used for breathers and vacuum.
* Viton seals needed for fuel. There are apparently some large bore quick-release connectors but very pricey!
04-18-2011, 03:56 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sudbury ON
Posts: 155
Thank you for that experience. I had thought about quick disconnects for tank removal, but the strap method yesterday was a "bird in the hand" for a job I needed to do. Where did you find the Q/Ds if I may ask?
Not sure I follow the carb synch advice exactly in my manual but I basically get your drift. Once a set of synch vacuum tubes are in, leave them in place blocked off. The blocked off tee would work on the rear vaccum line since it signals the petcock, but I think I would just add a permanent line to the front port where the little blocking bolt normally goes and plug it without a tee?
Not sure I follow the carb synch advice exactly in my manual but I basically get your drift. Once a set of synch vacuum tubes are in, leave them in place blocked off. The blocked off tee would work on the rear vaccum line since it signals the petcock, but I think I would just add a permanent line to the front port where the little blocking bolt normally goes and plug it without a tee?
04-18-2011, 05:24 PM
#18
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,478
I purchased them from a local shop. They come from Motion Pro - Quick Disconnect Couplings. You need the 5/16"single shut off type.
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