Fuel screw setting (pilot jet change)
#1
Fuel screw setting (pilot jet change)
Alright, thanks for my Trans-Atlantic friend Markus (a.k.a. Tweety), I be giving #48 pilots a try. While my bike runs flawlessly as it is, I have been known, on occasion, to experiment with new settings, all in the name of perfecting my beloved VTR. MY question, then, is the following:
- how much would one have to reduce the fuel screw setting to get an equivalent fuel flow with a larger #48 pilot (compared to stock 45). IN other words, if I am currently set at 2 5/8 turns out, what fuel screw setting would give me similar fueling with the 48 pilots in place?
thanks all
- how much would one have to reduce the fuel screw setting to get an equivalent fuel flow with a larger #48 pilot (compared to stock 45). IN other words, if I am currently set at 2 5/8 turns out, what fuel screw setting would give me similar fueling with the 48 pilots in place?
thanks all
#2
I love riddles? is this a riddle? beware the dwarf is my answer.
honestly I wouldn't change it. I didn't notice a lot of correlation between changing my pilots and a/f screw settings. I think the a/f is almost completely the idle circuit and the pilots are much more of the low end/needle impact. So I would say to slot your A/F screws, don't change them and get a motion pro right angle jobbie tool and then once you have it back on see if you can optimize anything at that point. I think you're more likely to find changes to just small on/off throttle transitions at the lower third of the throttle range. At least that has been my experience. And of course, never change more than one thing at a time - or you are sure to screw yourself up. I make that mistake over and over and over again. slotting the A/F screws and having that tool at least takes the worry out of it because you can adjust while idling which is ideal
honestly I wouldn't change it. I didn't notice a lot of correlation between changing my pilots and a/f screw settings. I think the a/f is almost completely the idle circuit and the pilots are much more of the low end/needle impact. So I would say to slot your A/F screws, don't change them and get a motion pro right angle jobbie tool and then once you have it back on see if you can optimize anything at that point. I think you're more likely to find changes to just small on/off throttle transitions at the lower third of the throttle range. At least that has been my experience. And of course, never change more than one thing at a time - or you are sure to screw yourself up. I make that mistake over and over and over again. slotting the A/F screws and having that tool at least takes the worry out of it because you can adjust while idling which is ideal
#3
While Bill is correct, I have mine set at 2 turns out on the front and 2 1\8 turn out on the rear. They could be opened another 1\8 turn each but I don't have the tool and don't feel like pulling the carbs right now.
#4
Hi gents,
my experiemntal streak was awakened by this posting by Tweety:
"tune it with a slightly rich idle, a wee bit lower on power at the top end and you get a punch in the middle of the powerband that makes you ask yourself what you where doing before... The bottom then becomes clean and grunty, the middle has a much wider area where you get loads of torque and the top end rolls of further down than an IL4 but with a less sharp roll of...
The middle of the powerband that felt "fine" before is now several steps beyond "fine"..."
May try it (going to 48s). Worse case I go back to how it is now (as it's working fine; but one never knows what is left on the table unless you experiment a little)
my experiemntal streak was awakened by this posting by Tweety:
"tune it with a slightly rich idle, a wee bit lower on power at the top end and you get a punch in the middle of the powerband that makes you ask yourself what you where doing before... The bottom then becomes clean and grunty, the middle has a much wider area where you get loads of torque and the top end rolls of further down than an IL4 but with a less sharp roll of...
The middle of the powerband that felt "fine" before is now several steps beyond "fine"..."
May try it (going to 48s). Worse case I go back to how it is now (as it's working fine; but one never knows what is left on the table unless you experiment a little)
#5
I certainly won't argue with tweety about tuning but not sure how much you can shift the powerband with merely carb changes aside from trying to get the ideal. In general the only thing that appears to matter much at WFO and high end is the main jets so not sure what relationship there is to the other things. I would just tune for the strongest midrange and the smoothest low end and transitions you can get. Agree you never know till you make a change on either side of perfect - thus make one change at a time.
#6
I have tried 48's but ultimately had to go back to 45's to get it to run right down low. This coincided with the change of my intake set-up. I was running 50's, but after change back to a K&N filter it was too rich and no amount of screw adjustment would get it right on the 50's or 48's.
Lots of factors involved in this of course, such as different exhausts etc, so 48's might be the go for you.
As for the mixture screw position, I dunno if there is a straight answer to be found. I would start at about 1.75 turns out and experiment from there.
Lots of factors involved in this of course, such as different exhausts etc, so 48's might be the go for you.
As for the mixture screw position, I dunno if there is a straight answer to be found. I would start at about 1.75 turns out and experiment from there.
#7
I also went back to #45 pilots after experimenting with the larger #48. The difference in mixture screw settings between the 2, as best as I can remember, was probably 1~1.25 turns. I used the procedure for highest/smoothest idle while running. In both cases, after getting it just right, the engine will idle steadily at 1,000 rpm without ever dying. Pull in the clutch while downshifting, or at an intersection and it just idles perfect. There is a definite warm-up period involved though.
#9
#10
Hi gents,
my experiemntal streak was awakened by this posting by Tweety:
"tune it with a slightly rich idle, a wee bit lower on power at the top end and you get a punch in the middle of the powerband that makes you ask yourself what you where doing before... The bottom then becomes clean and grunty, the middle has a much wider area where you get loads of torque and the top end rolls of further down than an IL4 but with a less sharp roll of...
The middle of the powerband that felt "fine" before is now several steps beyond "fine"..."
May try it (going to 48s). Worse case I go back to how it is now (as it's working fine; but one never knows what is left on the table unless you experiment a little)
my experiemntal streak was awakened by this posting by Tweety:
"tune it with a slightly rich idle, a wee bit lower on power at the top end and you get a punch in the middle of the powerband that makes you ask yourself what you where doing before... The bottom then becomes clean and grunty, the middle has a much wider area where you get loads of torque and the top end rolls of further down than an IL4 but with a less sharp roll of...
The middle of the powerband that felt "fine" before is now several steps beyond "fine"..."
May try it (going to 48s). Worse case I go back to how it is now (as it's working fine; but one never knows what is left on the table unless you experiment a little)
#11
#12
I need to get to this at some point. My bike runs ok as it is, so no real rush. What "tool" are you referring to - a screwdriver won't do it? If I need a special tool I want to order it before I tackle this job. Thank you. JB
#13
its a right angle screw driver that is usually gear driven so you can rotate the action head by turning the handle. Motion pro sells one. You have to be sure to get the D-shaped adapter - to fit the AF screw head. It still doesn't work that great and you are better to slot the screws next time carbs are off so you can use a straight screw driver tip instead. works better.
#14
Thanks again.
My bike runs more than fine as it is but one never knows if there is some improvement left untapped unless I try it. (BTW, this line of reasoning, I am told, is a sure sign of OCMD, lol). Given the minimal cost involved and the fact taht I have the carb removal routine down to a fine art, I will give this a try in the near future.
cheers
My bike runs more than fine as it is but one never knows if there is some improvement left untapped unless I try it. (BTW, this line of reasoning, I am told, is a sure sign of OCMD, lol). Given the minimal cost involved and the fact taht I have the carb removal routine down to a fine art, I will give this a try in the near future.
cheers
#15
According to the Factory Pro website:
Rule of thumb....
If you go 1 size larger or smaller on the size of the pilot jet, you will change the fuel screw ~1.5x richer or leaner to retain the original idle mixture -
Rule of thumb....
If you go 1 size larger or smaller on the size of the pilot jet, you will change the fuel screw ~1.5x richer or leaner to retain the original idle mixture -
#17
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Pilot...ools_C2297.cfm
#18
Would this one work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBU...motiveQ5fTools
The ad notes it doesn`t work on Hondas but I fail to see how it differs from anything else so long as the head shape fits (virtually same as Motion Pro whch makes no similar exception)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBU...motiveQ5fTools
The ad notes it doesn`t work on Hondas but I fail to see how it differs from anything else so long as the head shape fits (virtually same as Motion Pro whch makes no similar exception)...
#19
Would this one work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBU...motiveQ5fTools
The ad notes it doesn`t work on Hondas but I fail to see how it differs from anything else so long as the head shape fits (virtually same as Motion Pro whch makes no similar exception)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBU...motiveQ5fTools
The ad notes it doesn`t work on Hondas but I fail to see how it differs from anything else so long as the head shape fits (virtually same as Motion Pro whch makes no similar exception)...
#21
#22
Decided to bring this thread back to life....sorry. I've been reading much of the threads concerning the D shaped screws to have my eye ***** bulge outta my head. One thing I have never found is the methode used to notch/groove the screw to use a screw driver.
After driving the '98 for a few years, never did anything to it, but simple maintenance. But with this one, I have begun to suffer form OCMD, like most of my fellow Hawkers.
That being said, I now have my carbs on my work table, and, unless I am brain dead, the only way I see to groove the screw is with my dremel. However, this will also damage the housing around the screw itself. Question : Is there another, cleaner way that I'm over looking to groove
the screw ?
Hawk, being the undisputed carb expert, perhaps you may sheed some light for me....
After driving the '98 for a few years, never did anything to it, but simple maintenance. But with this one, I have begun to suffer form OCMD, like most of my fellow Hawkers.
That being said, I now have my carbs on my work table, and, unless I am brain dead, the only way I see to groove the screw is with my dremel. However, this will also damage the housing around the screw itself. Question : Is there another, cleaner way that I'm over looking to groove
the screw ?
Hawk, being the undisputed carb expert, perhaps you may sheed some light for me....
#28
#29
Thanks Tweety. I had begun thinking about that before playing
with it to make sure I know where I am, and where I need to go.
I did the TPS earlier this week, and made sure I took precise readings before playing with it. I was at 900omhs, so, I knew where I need go
before removing it.
with it to make sure I know where I am, and where I need to go.
I did the TPS earlier this week, and made sure I took precise readings before playing with it. I was at 900omhs, so, I knew where I need go
before removing it.
#30
I just saw this. Not sure if it would work but hand adjustable would be sweet
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