Front cylinder failure at 24k miles?
#1
Front cylinder failure at 24k miles?
Loud metal chattering at 70 mph on interstate tonight. Pulled in clutch, coasted to side of road, hit engine kill switch, pushed to a quieter road and restarted, loud chattering resumed and is coming from the front engine cylinder, then engine locked and won't crank anymore.
Is it suprising to hear of a SH engine failure at 24k miles? I switched to Honda because of Honda's quality reputation. I have all receipts/service records for my 2002 SH. It was meticulously maintained by an older gentleman before I purchased at 22k miles last summer.
Is this related to the engine failure? Service record has previous owner suspecting fuel in oil at 20,743 miles "Technician found needle and seat stuck, replaced needle/seat and set float level. Spark plugs in good condition. Installed oil, test rode, oil is no longer contaminated, engine runs great and all is good at this time."
Then, at 22,071 miles previous owner brings bike in again with fuel in oil complaint again. "Technician found no contaminant of fuel in oil."
Any suggestions/explanations would be appreciated. The advice I've received so far is to call Honda to see if there were any related recalls/service bulletins. If there wasn't, am I SOL?
Anyone selling a used engine on here?
Is it suprising to hear of a SH engine failure at 24k miles? I switched to Honda because of Honda's quality reputation. I have all receipts/service records for my 2002 SH. It was meticulously maintained by an older gentleman before I purchased at 22k miles last summer.
Is this related to the engine failure? Service record has previous owner suspecting fuel in oil at 20,743 miles "Technician found needle and seat stuck, replaced needle/seat and set float level. Spark plugs in good condition. Installed oil, test rode, oil is no longer contaminated, engine runs great and all is good at this time."
Then, at 22,071 miles previous owner brings bike in again with fuel in oil complaint again. "Technician found no contaminant of fuel in oil."
Any suggestions/explanations would be appreciated. The advice I've received so far is to call Honda to see if there were any related recalls/service bulletins. If there wasn't, am I SOL?
Anyone selling a used engine on here?
#2
Sounds like a CCT failure to me. The CCT's are a notorious VTR weak-point... but are not without thier fixes. Check the cam timing on the front cyclinder, that will give you your answer. If it was a CCT failure just have the affected head rebuilt, switch to APE manual CCT's and get it back on the road.
Last edited by inderocker; 05-21-2010 at 12:14 AM.
#3
#4
Thanks so much for the quick reply!
Bummer, I wish I had known about this before. Looks like you all have known for quite some time now. I guess I didn't stalk the forum enough. I did some research on SHs but didn't come across this for some reason. I was just so confident I was buying a high quality, superbly maintained ride. I'm sad!
Well, I checked and there are no current safety recalls on my VIN.
So it seems like these scenarios happen all the time on all kinds of vehicles but has Honda ever taken any financial responsibility for manufacturing an inferior part? Would it be a waste of my time to discuss this with Honda directly? Think I'll get any sympathy from my local stealership? Or did you all just suck it up and rebuild?
Bummer, I wish I had known about this before. Looks like you all have known for quite some time now. I guess I didn't stalk the forum enough. I did some research on SHs but didn't come across this for some reason. I was just so confident I was buying a high quality, superbly maintained ride. I'm sad!
Well, I checked and there are no current safety recalls on my VIN.
So it seems like these scenarios happen all the time on all kinds of vehicles but has Honda ever taken any financial responsibility for manufacturing an inferior part? Would it be a waste of my time to discuss this with Honda directly? Think I'll get any sympathy from my local stealership? Or did you all just suck it up and rebuild?
#5
Look through the KB. You will see all the basics that need to be done. The SH is a great bike, but like all bikes, it has its flaws. The good news is that they can all be corrected. Too bad about yours. Maybe you got lucky, and the damge is not too bad. Follow the KB article to see for yourself how bad it is. JB
#6
awesome link...makes me almost think I can do it myself! So what kind of price range can I expect if only one cylinder/piston/valve(s)/CCT is damaged? I don't want to get fleeced by a repair shop.
Thanks again for the quick replies. I really appreciate it. It's prime riding season and I want to get back out there!
Thanks again for the quick replies. I really appreciate it. It's prime riding season and I want to get back out there!
#7
Dunno about the price... I'm in Sweden, so prices usualy are widely different, but a similar repair around here would equate to $800-$1000 in a shop...
The swap of a still healthy set of CCT's to manual or new OEM's is easy... I'm pretty sure you could do it your self regardless of your experience...
As for Honda claiming any economical responsibility, nope... You are as you say SOL on that one... The CCT's are a wear item, and they have not manufactured it the wrong way or substandard... They do need to be replaced and 24k on one is longer than some, shorter than some... BTW I take it as a given that the one that hasn't failed will be replaced as well...
Consider having them swapped to manual CCT's when the rebuild is done, they will then not be self-adjusting, but rarely needs to be adjusted... Checking them at the same intervall as the large service on the bike should be more than needed...
The swap of a still healthy set of CCT's to manual or new OEM's is easy... I'm pretty sure you could do it your self regardless of your experience...
As for Honda claiming any economical responsibility, nope... You are as you say SOL on that one... The CCT's are a wear item, and they have not manufactured it the wrong way or substandard... They do need to be replaced and 24k on one is longer than some, shorter than some... BTW I take it as a given that the one that hasn't failed will be replaced as well...
Consider having them swapped to manual CCT's when the rebuild is done, they will then not be self-adjusting, but rarely needs to be adjusted... Checking them at the same intervall as the large service on the bike should be more than needed...
#8
You can save yourself some coin by pulling the head and taking that it to the repair shop instead of the whole bike. Unless the damage was really bad you will not need a new piston. You'll most likely need just new valves, seals, gaskets and have the seats re-cut for the new valves for that head. I would guess they are going to charge you 2-3 hours shop time... at $85 and hour (that's the rate at my local Honda dealer).
Plus these parts;
(ronayers.com)
1 GASKET, CYL HD (12251-MBB-003) - $32.32
2 VALVE, IN. (14711-MBB-000) - $53.16
2 VALVE, EX. (14721-MBB-000) - $92.55
2 SEAL, EX. VALVE STEM (12208-MBB-003) - $15.66
2 SEAL, VALVE STEM (12209-MBB-003) - $15.66
8 COTTER, VALVE (14781-MBB-003) - $24.06
2 GSKT, TENSIONER HOLE (14523-MAL-A00) - $1.78
(aperaceparts.com)
2 APE MANUAL CCT's (HT1000VTR) - $103.30
Total Parts - $235.18
Total Labor - $255.00
Total - $593.48 + tax, S&H (worst case scenario.)
It may of only bent one set of valves, either intake or exhaust, so obviously you'll have to check for that as well.
Plus these parts;
(ronayers.com)
1 GASKET, CYL HD (12251-MBB-003) - $32.32
2 VALVE, IN. (14711-MBB-000) - $53.16
2 VALVE, EX. (14721-MBB-000) - $92.55
2 SEAL, EX. VALVE STEM (12208-MBB-003) - $15.66
2 SEAL, VALVE STEM (12209-MBB-003) - $15.66
8 COTTER, VALVE (14781-MBB-003) - $24.06
2 GSKT, TENSIONER HOLE (14523-MAL-A00) - $1.78
(aperaceparts.com)
2 APE MANUAL CCT's (HT1000VTR) - $103.30
Total Parts - $235.18
Total Labor - $255.00
Total - $593.48 + tax, S&H (worst case scenario.)
It may of only bent one set of valves, either intake or exhaust, so obviously you'll have to check for that as well.
Last edited by inderocker; 05-21-2010 at 03:55 PM.
#9
I am not sure if they are interchangeable front to rear, but if so, you could just get this rear head off ebay rather than fix the one you got:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-...Q5fAccessories
And whatever you do, swap the CCTs for manual ones so that this doesn't happen again to you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-...Q5fAccessories
And whatever you do, swap the CCTs for manual ones so that this doesn't happen again to you.
#11
#13
word from dealership is $1700 in parts and $900 in labor to rebuild front cylinder head...they won't guarantee their work because technically they should replace the piston/rings but my piston has no scarring.
That seems like an awful lot of money. Bike is in good condition otherwise...but that's so much money. Ugh...any other words of advice for me?
Sell as is, part out, look for another head/complete motor?
That seems like an awful lot of money. Bike is in good condition otherwise...but that's so much money. Ugh...any other words of advice for me?
Sell as is, part out, look for another head/complete motor?
#17
Not dealership, stealership. Times must be hard..........$2600 and no guarentee? it will be okay! And they didn't even get into the cylinder.
Get the bike out of there, and bring back the list of parts and tell us what they wanted to replace, I am dying to know. You can get a whole bike for $2500 and a used motor for $500. A wrecked bike is what I would look for, then you would have all kinds of spares: tires, sprockets, chain, electrical.
Used heads pop up now and again for $100. Tell us what they thought was bad and had to be replaced. I've never heard of the entire motor being rebuilt costing over $2000. I wouldn't trust the dealership to machine the head and assemble anyway.
Check ebay or this forum for spare heads.
Get the bike out of there, and bring back the list of parts and tell us what they wanted to replace, I am dying to know. You can get a whole bike for $2500 and a used motor for $500. A wrecked bike is what I would look for, then you would have all kinds of spares: tires, sprockets, chain, electrical.
Used heads pop up now and again for $100. Tell us what they thought was bad and had to be replaced. I've never heard of the entire motor being rebuilt costing over $2000. I wouldn't trust the dealership to machine the head and assemble anyway.
Check ebay or this forum for spare heads.
#19
ANYONE on this forum will get you the parts for $1500 and do the work for $700!!! Just kidding. Go get bike and written estimate. Look at parts to see whats really broke. Fix broke stuff. Ride. Enjoy! But don't forget to post the estimate... we love that crazy ****!
#20
This reminds me when my brother in law took his '93 camry into the stealership because he was blowing water out of the overflow after driving 30 miles. The dealership could not diagnose what was wrong after $250 spent.
They said they wanted to replace the head gasket, it would be $3,000 but they wouldn't guarentee it would fix the problem. This is on a $1,500 car. I think he only ending up paying a $100 to get it back, and then took it somewhere else and spent $2,000 replacing head gasket.
This is from the dealership, who is supposed to have the most knowledge and experience on your particular vehicle, since they built it. The same V-6 motor was also in the toyota truck in the 90s, was unofficially recalled and fixed for free in thousands of trucks in the 90's when people came in with blown head gaskets. Toyota put the wrong head gaskets in the vehicles, which would fail at around 100K miles. Toyota left him screwed with bad gaskets, then incompetent mechanics with no knowldege of Toyota's mistakes.
To finish my rant, my best friend took his Dodge Caravan in when it wouldn't run, they "diagnosed" it and charged him $1500 for a new EFI computer, which warrantee did not cover, he paid it, then vehicle still was not running correctly. Then, they said his battery was bad, and replaced it and the car ran perfect. They basically tested the computer in the vehicle with a bad battery and came up with the conclusion the computer was bad.
He asked for the $1500 back for their mistake and they said no, couldn't return it. The dealership could not even diagnose a bad battery, and he got fleeced $1500 extra. He should have taken them to court, I would have, and I would have got my old computer back too, just to verify they actually changed it.
Moral of story:
Don't blindly trust any one opinion, get a second opinion
They said they wanted to replace the head gasket, it would be $3,000 but they wouldn't guarentee it would fix the problem. This is on a $1,500 car. I think he only ending up paying a $100 to get it back, and then took it somewhere else and spent $2,000 replacing head gasket.
This is from the dealership, who is supposed to have the most knowledge and experience on your particular vehicle, since they built it. The same V-6 motor was also in the toyota truck in the 90s, was unofficially recalled and fixed for free in thousands of trucks in the 90's when people came in with blown head gaskets. Toyota put the wrong head gaskets in the vehicles, which would fail at around 100K miles. Toyota left him screwed with bad gaskets, then incompetent mechanics with no knowldege of Toyota's mistakes.
To finish my rant, my best friend took his Dodge Caravan in when it wouldn't run, they "diagnosed" it and charged him $1500 for a new EFI computer, which warrantee did not cover, he paid it, then vehicle still was not running correctly. Then, they said his battery was bad, and replaced it and the car ran perfect. They basically tested the computer in the vehicle with a bad battery and came up with the conclusion the computer was bad.
He asked for the $1500 back for their mistake and they said no, couldn't return it. The dealership could not even diagnose a bad battery, and he got fleeced $1500 extra. He should have taken them to court, I would have, and I would have got my old computer back too, just to verify they actually changed it.
Moral of story:
Don't blindly trust any one opinion, get a second opinion
#21
You telling us your friend can't pull the battery and get to an autoparts store to have it tested? Are you in the middle of a six-lane freeway or what?
You can buy a tow strap for under $40 bucks and if you're hard pressed you can tow almost anything with almost anything of equal size. These guys are ripping you off because you know nothing. Learning about your ride can save you big time bucks.
You can buy a tow strap for under $40 bucks and if you're hard pressed you can tow almost anything with almost anything of equal size. These guys are ripping you off because you know nothing. Learning about your ride can save you big time bucks.
#24
Okay, here you are...
cylinder head 772.5
head cover gasket 34.50
cylinder heard gasket 38.99
intake valve 31.99
exhaust valve 57.50
valve spring seat 4.50 and 7.50
valve stem seals 9.50 and 9.50
valve springs 7.50 and 9.99
valve spring retainer 9.99
valve cotter 3.99
valve lifter 45.50
lifter pad cap 6.99
tensioner lifter 79.99
exhaust pipe gasket 6.99
oil 4.99
oil filter 12.50
coolant 11.00
misc rubber, washer, stays, bolts, o-ring total 24.96
diag/teardown 3 hrs 285.00
repair/reassemble 7 hrs 665.00
cylinder head 772.5
head cover gasket 34.50
cylinder heard gasket 38.99
intake valve 31.99
exhaust valve 57.50
valve spring seat 4.50 and 7.50
valve stem seals 9.50 and 9.50
valve springs 7.50 and 9.99
valve spring retainer 9.99
valve cotter 3.99
valve lifter 45.50
lifter pad cap 6.99
tensioner lifter 79.99
exhaust pipe gasket 6.99
oil 4.99
oil filter 12.50
coolant 11.00
misc rubber, washer, stays, bolts, o-ring total 24.96
diag/teardown 3 hrs 285.00
repair/reassemble 7 hrs 665.00
#25
Well it is hard to say. If you want that bike fixed, and the repair is more than you can take on, then what are your alternatives? You probably have to pay the 285 diag even if the dealer does not do the repair. Your largest expense is the cylinder head and labor, how much can you trim off of that? They list 7 hours, that repair would take my OCD hands 20 hours since I would have to spec everything twice like many guys on this board. You could take the estimate to an independant repair guy and see what he quotes you. Some of these guys a good, some are not - check around first.
Have you thought about buying another used bike and then selling your current bike for parts? JB
Have you thought about buying another used bike and then selling your current bike for parts? JB
Last edited by residentg; 06-06-2010 at 03:48 AM.
#26
I can take off a cylinder head in the described time (I just re-timed a bike after a friend decided to do his own work with PAIR removal and clutch seal and bleed in 3.5hrs). Assembly of an all new head would not take 4 hours. I would say that the re-asse,bly of bike with repairs should be no more than 5 hours. I am armchair quarterbacking a little, but I have been down to the crank on a vtr (as well as rc30's, snowmobiles, quads, etc). I think, unless the damage to the guides is bad, that the new head is a little much. Cut cost by getting them to use a salvage head that you provide. If they do that it will save you bundles off of their estimate, and most places are happy to get some labor these days.
p.s. Had a ducati 748 that lost a timing belt. Split every single valve guide into pieces.
p.s. Had a ducati 748 that lost a timing belt. Split every single valve guide into pieces.
#28
I would ask the dealership who their machine shop is, and if they even looked at the head. Most heads with gouges can be welded and resurfaced, or cracks welded and repaired. Make them show you/tell you why it cannot be repaired.
The scary part of that estimate is the same new OEM defective part (CCT) that caused this mess was going back into the motor. The rear one will go next, that needs to be updated to manual CCT as well.
Most people don't take their battery in to be tested when it still turns the motor over and holds a charge. Problem was a bad cell was not putting out enough output voltage to run the computer to start the car eventhough amps were available to turn the starter over. Like having a fully charged 10V battery. If the car was already running the alternator could have provided enough voltage. This should have been one of the first things tested by the dealer before coming to the conclusion the computer was bad.
The scary part of that estimate is the same new OEM defective part (CCT) that caused this mess was going back into the motor. The rear one will go next, that needs to be updated to manual CCT as well.
Most people don't take their battery in to be tested when it still turns the motor over and holds a charge. Problem was a bad cell was not putting out enough output voltage to run the computer to start the car eventhough amps were available to turn the starter over. Like having a fully charged 10V battery. If the car was already running the alternator could have provided enough voltage. This should have been one of the first things tested by the dealer before coming to the conclusion the computer was bad.
#30
Thanks so much...I'll go in on Tuesday to look at the damage and ask these questions. I really appreciate all your help.
My husband found an Aprilia Falco that looks like a good replacement bike for me. Still not sure if I want to invest any more time/money into my SH.
My husband found an Aprilia Falco that looks like a good replacement bike for me. Still not sure if I want to invest any more time/money into my SH.