Finding a short
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 20
From: Rancho Cordova, CA
Finding a short
Hello everyone,
I have an 2001, just replaced choke cable/fittings and float valves. Got it back together and runs great. Just before this (I don't know how long before this fix) I had blown the 10A fuse for brake/turn/horn. It repeatedly blows as soon as I turn the key to the "ON" position. At that point, I have running lights but they go out when I activate the turn signals. What does this tell me??? Also, taillight on, no brake light of course.
I don't remember seeing any wiring I could have pinched during the carb removal/install. In an attempt to find the short I have disconnected (at the components themselves) all lighting in the tail section, both front marker/turn signal lights, and horn. I thought maybe socket corrosion was at fault. Fuse still blows. I have continuity across the fuse terminals with key out. I have checked the rear brake switch at connector under the seat. There is continuity ONLY when switch is activated. I checked the front brake switch at brake lever. Same behavior.
I am not great when it comes to electrical diagnostics to say the least. I do have a DMM. Do any of you have some ideas? I was hoping for a "Hey, try looking here!" kind of response. I really don't know what the next logical step is. Do I just start taking off fairings? Cut away wire sheathing looking for a short?
Any advice/ideas will be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
I have an 2001, just replaced choke cable/fittings and float valves. Got it back together and runs great. Just before this (I don't know how long before this fix) I had blown the 10A fuse for brake/turn/horn. It repeatedly blows as soon as I turn the key to the "ON" position. At that point, I have running lights but they go out when I activate the turn signals. What does this tell me??? Also, taillight on, no brake light of course.
I don't remember seeing any wiring I could have pinched during the carb removal/install. In an attempt to find the short I have disconnected (at the components themselves) all lighting in the tail section, both front marker/turn signal lights, and horn. I thought maybe socket corrosion was at fault. Fuse still blows. I have continuity across the fuse terminals with key out. I have checked the rear brake switch at connector under the seat. There is continuity ONLY when switch is activated. I checked the front brake switch at brake lever. Same behavior.
I am not great when it comes to electrical diagnostics to say the least. I do have a DMM. Do any of you have some ideas? I was hoping for a "Hey, try looking here!" kind of response. I really don't know what the next logical step is. Do I just start taking off fairings? Cut away wire sheathing looking for a short?
Any advice/ideas will be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
VTR virgin
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 447
From: Auckland, New Zealand
One point where wires get pinched is the cable leading to the front brake switch on the handlebars; the wire can get trapped against the bars if the brake is rotated downwards for comfort.
Member
Squid
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 46
Hey Sprayall, did you ever figure out what was going on?. I'm having the same issue and can't figure it out for the life of me. I've had the problem with two different wiring harnesses.
Hello everyone,
I have an 2001, just replaced choke cable/fittings and float valves. Got it back together and runs great. Just before this (I don't know how long before this fix) I had blown the 10A fuse for brake/turn/horn. It repeatedly blows as soon as I turn the key to the "ON" position. At that point, I have running lights but they go out when I activate the turn signals. What does this tell me??? Also, taillight on, no brake light of course.
I don't remember seeing any wiring I could have pinched during the carb removal/install. In an attempt to find the short I have disconnected (at the components themselves) all lighting in the tail section, both front marker/turn signal lights, and horn. I thought maybe socket corrosion was at fault. Fuse still blows. I have continuity across the fuse terminals with key out. I have checked the rear brake switch at connector under the seat. There is continuity ONLY when switch is activated. I checked the front brake switch at brake lever. Same behavior.
I am not great when it comes to electrical diagnostics to say the least. I do have a DMM. Do any of you have some ideas? I was hoping for a "Hey, try looking here!" kind of response. I really don't know what the next logical step is. Do I just start taking off fairings? Cut away wire sheathing looking for a short?
Any advice/ideas will be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
I have an 2001, just replaced choke cable/fittings and float valves. Got it back together and runs great. Just before this (I don't know how long before this fix) I had blown the 10A fuse for brake/turn/horn. It repeatedly blows as soon as I turn the key to the "ON" position. At that point, I have running lights but they go out when I activate the turn signals. What does this tell me??? Also, taillight on, no brake light of course.
I don't remember seeing any wiring I could have pinched during the carb removal/install. In an attempt to find the short I have disconnected (at the components themselves) all lighting in the tail section, both front marker/turn signal lights, and horn. I thought maybe socket corrosion was at fault. Fuse still blows. I have continuity across the fuse terminals with key out. I have checked the rear brake switch at connector under the seat. There is continuity ONLY when switch is activated. I checked the front brake switch at brake lever. Same behavior.
I am not great when it comes to electrical diagnostics to say the least. I do have a DMM. Do any of you have some ideas? I was hoping for a "Hey, try looking here!" kind of response. I really don't know what the next logical step is. Do I just start taking off fairings? Cut away wire sheathing looking for a short?
Any advice/ideas will be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Booker909; Feb 21, 2017 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Auto correct
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,631
From: Montreal
I was EXTREMELY relieved to find it as I was readying to embark on a quasi-cross-Canada tour for my vacation and couldn't contemplate doing so without a functioning brake light (you can work around non-functioning turn signals by using hand signals at worse but a brake light is a strict necessity)...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 20
From: Rancho Cordova, CA
Yes!!! Bulb sockets are always the first to check. Very common and easiest to do. Didn't fix my problem. Did replace one though as it was suspect. Went on to disconnect all connectors up front, testing pins for continuity and shorts. Tedious. Didn't find anything. Plugged everything back in. Didn't blow any fuses. But blinkers still working intermittently. Took the advice mentioned above and just wiggling the prong that comes out of the front brake switch seemed to affect how the blinkers functioned. i was going to order new switch but haven't since everything seems to work fine now. I am much better about checking my lights every morning now!!! I would say try the wiggle test at front brake switch and possibly the turn signal/horn controls. I've seen lots of posts about people having to take those apart and clean them.
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