finally a real R/R swap
04-21-2010, 11:56 AM
#1
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finally a real R/R swap
Hey guys I finally got a R1 R/R in today and I put it on base on the diagram i got and found it was wrong. The actually way to wire looking at the R/R the wires should go Y yellow R red G gren ( YYY RG) I fired it up and I was amazed how quick it started up. I used a 250cc R/R off a rebel for months now and was having problem where it wont charge right and if you dont get the bike to start in the first 2 try the R/R overload and you have to wait. R1 R/R runs really good doesn't heat up. The 250 heated so hot you can cook an egg on it.
<img src="https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=148&pictureid=1738" />
couldn't mount it under the fairing was thinking of going under the rear but i dont want dirt getting on it. So Just want to let you guys know if anyone decided to go to R1 R/R. Its bigger than in the pictures. hahaha its huge
YYY RG <<< wires
<img src="https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=148&pictureid=1738" />
couldn't mount it under the fairing was thinking of going under the rear but i dont want dirt getting on it. So Just want to let you guys know if anyone decided to go to R1 R/R. Its bigger than in the pictures. hahaha its huge
YYY RG <<< wires
Last edited by doomcookie; 04-21-2010 at 11:58 AM.
04-21-2010, 02:17 PM
#4
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That should work fine... Although it fits just fine in the stock postion... Stick the top bolt in the original hole (it has a welded in nut) and rotate the R/R until it's inside the frame spars, drill new hole for the bottom one and stick a bolt through and use a nyloc nut on it... Just make sure not to drill any wiring...
04-21-2010, 03:19 PM
#5
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That should work fine... Although it fits just fine in the stock postion... Stick the top bolt in the original hole (it has a welded in nut) and rotate the R/R until it's inside the frame spars, drill new hole for the bottom one and stick a bolt through and use a nyloc nut on it... Just make sure not to drill any wiring...
04-21-2010, 04:59 PM
#6
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Thanks guys I was afraid the dirt or mug would mess it up. I will move it under tomorrow. I tried to movei t around but the fairing stick out bad and I was having one hell of a time trying to take my seat out today. I will put it under
04-21-2010, 05:38 PM
#8
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Actually your's are 4 mm larger than mine, being the older one... So the difference is negligable... Yeah it's quite a bit larger than stock... But it fits...
OEM and R1...
In place...
OEM and R1...
In place...
this is what i got. it run really cool.... the r/6 look like the 250 rr i had in it before
04-21-2010, 06:49 PM
#10
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i dont ever recall a grounding strap on mine, is that factory or did you add it to the reg or is that just a grounding point for something else?
04-21-2010, 08:27 PM
#14
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That I think depend on the R/R my last R/R heated up really hot it would have burnt the zip tie. I think i can get away with the new one I got but i wouldn't take the chance those thing can get real hot. I'm thinking tomorrow goign to get some screws and nuts and put it under with some washers.
04-22-2010, 01:45 AM
#17
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Zipties are no good... You need to ground the R/R or you are measuring it's lifespan in hours not months and years... YES, it dissapates heat through the subframe... That's the only way the stock unfinned one has for the heat to go, the R/R has it's own sink but still needs to be bolted to the frame...
The ground strap are most definetly stock and should be there on all years of VTR without question... If not, somebody have been doing a bodge job on the bike before...
doomcookie, that's most definetly bigger... Doubt it'll go inside the fairing... The positive is it's not likely to fail from thermal runaway if it's bolted to the frame in any way...
The ground strap are most definetly stock and should be there on all years of VTR without question... If not, somebody have been doing a bodge job on the bike before...
doomcookie, that's most definetly bigger... Doubt it'll go inside the fairing... The positive is it's not likely to fail from thermal runaway if it's bolted to the frame in any way...
04-22-2010, 04:43 AM
#18
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hmm, well then i wonder where the hell my grounding strap is. does that strap go from the rr to the battery? ill have to run a new one, maybe thats why my other one failed.
also what about thermal gel, can i put some between that and the frame? a friend asked me to ask when we were talking about bikes last night.
also what about thermal gel, can i put some between that and the frame? a friend asked me to ask when we were talking about bikes last night.
04-22-2010, 05:00 AM
#19
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You could use thermal gel, but I doubt it's neccesary or really makes a difference at the temps we are talking about... Make sure it sits level and has good surface contact and that's it...
I doubt it's what made the old R/R fail, but it helps equalise the system... You'll find groundpoints at various places around the bike... They are needed, and the VTR could do with more of them...
I doubt it's what made the old R/R fail, but it helps equalise the system... You'll find groundpoints at various places around the bike... They are needed, and the VTR could do with more of them...
04-22-2010, 07:09 PM
#20
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You could use thermal gel, but I doubt it's neccesary or really makes a difference at the temps we are talking about... Make sure it sits level and has good surface contact and that's it...
I doubt it's what made the old R/R fail, but it helps equalise the system... You'll find groundpoints at various places around the bike... They are needed, and the VTR could do with more of them...
I doubt it's what made the old R/R fail, but it helps equalise the system... You'll find groundpoints at various places around the bike... They are needed, and the VTR could do with more of them...
04-22-2010, 07:52 PM
#21
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I got my bike with this mod already, so i got lucky. it has R1 low fin style and is mounted in place of original. It still gets so hot that i could not touch it. and after some riging my RPMs would jump up and down in idle about 300 RMP. i took a PC fan, strapped it on top and connected it to the rear light and now after a day of riding RPMs jump 100 or so.
04-23-2010, 02:18 AM
#23
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No need to draw any long wire's anywhere... Drawing a cable to the main ground would only accomplish what the chassie is already doing, by connecting those two points... I know it's odd, but think of the chassie as one big green cable...
The main ground close to the battery and all the others are just that, they connect the green wires all over the bike to the chassis, by a couple of points like this...
04-23-2010, 04:44 AM
#24
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oh ok thats simple enough then. i thought it needed to be run off to somewhere else. so green wire spliced from the rr and run to a ground somewhere. no problem. thatll get done tonite. the new rr should be here today, it shipped wednesday 
again tweety thanks for the help, i owe you some lunch or something if i ever meet you
again tweety thanks for the help, i owe you some lunch or something if i ever meet you
04-23-2010, 02:43 PM
#27
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Actually not quite there yet... But I know the torque value for each size of bolt without reading the manual... And friend came over the other day... He commented it was scary to see me remove the fairings and have the whole front of the bike disassembled in less than 30 minutes to replace the headbearing... All the while talking to him...
04-23-2010, 05:05 PM
#28
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Actually not quite there yet... But I know the torque value for each size of bolt without reading the manual... And friend came over the other day... He commented it was scary to see me remove the fairings and have the whole front of the bike disassembled in less than 30 minutes to replace the headbearing... All the while talking to him...
04-24-2010, 11:16 AM
#30
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I got the R/R under the seat now.. next on the list is fork rebuilt.. have no knowledge about fork.. taking it to honda powersport.. this is goign to hurt my wallet. Thinking about going to convert but i hate tracking down parts. Tweety whats the easiest fork to convert to? without the triple clamps swap and all
