Engine ticking noise
09-18-2014, 08:52 PM
#1
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Engine ticking noise
I have had this ticking noise since I bought the bike. Recently, a friend alerted me to the noise. He had heard it a year ago and then now. Said that it has gotten much worse. I guess I just got used to it.
It is a metal on metal ticking coming from the front of the engine.
It is not:
MCCT's (were just adjusted)
An exhaust leak (new header o-ring installed)
Valves out if spec (were just checked along with MCCT's)
Carb slides bouncing
You can hear it plain as day when the bike is idling. Doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot. Gets slightly louder as the engine's RPM's get higher. You can hear it loudest when cruising at 3,500-3,800RPM's.
The ticking is most noticeable/loudest when I am decelerating while in gear from 3,500RPM's down to about 1,800RPM's. However, this might just be due to the fact that the exhaust noise isn't drowning out the ticking noise.
It's a continuous noise that coincides with engine RPM's and the front cylinder firing.
I was thinking it could be a bad/broken valve spring, but my valves are in spec. Maybe it's the wrist pin or the connecting rod on the crank?
The bike has no loss of power. This metal on metal ticking noise has got me stumped. I used a mechanics stethascope and it's hard to pinpoint where the ticking is coming from (top end or bottom end).
How would you proceed?
It is a metal on metal ticking coming from the front of the engine.
It is not:
MCCT's (were just adjusted)
An exhaust leak (new header o-ring installed)
Valves out if spec (were just checked along with MCCT's)
Carb slides bouncing
You can hear it plain as day when the bike is idling. Doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot. Gets slightly louder as the engine's RPM's get higher. You can hear it loudest when cruising at 3,500-3,800RPM's.
The ticking is most noticeable/loudest when I am decelerating while in gear from 3,500RPM's down to about 1,800RPM's. However, this might just be due to the fact that the exhaust noise isn't drowning out the ticking noise.
It's a continuous noise that coincides with engine RPM's and the front cylinder firing.
I was thinking it could be a bad/broken valve spring, but my valves are in spec. Maybe it's the wrist pin or the connecting rod on the crank?
The bike has no loss of power. This metal on metal ticking noise has got me stumped. I used a mechanics stethascope and it's hard to pinpoint where the ticking is coming from (top end or bottom end).
How would you proceed?
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 09-19-2014 at 09:30 AM.
09-18-2014, 10:16 PM
#2
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my first guess is the infamous carb slide bounce. ive had the issue. mine sounded like a "rattling" noise coming from the front, it was pretty obvious it was coming from right under the tank when sitting on the bike. now mine didnt do it at idle but only on accel from a start and got worse with RPMs. it seemed to go away when you stop accelerating and just cruise. and it seems to be only in the lower revs, under 4000k rpm.
now its something to do with the front carb slide slamming shut. it can be fixed by either plugging one of the slide holes, or replacing the spring. or in my case balancing the carbs.
now mine didnt do it on decel or at idle but ive read reports of it acting the way yours is.
its at least worth a look before you spend time and money in other areas.
now its something to do with the front carb slide slamming shut. it can be fixed by either plugging one of the slide holes, or replacing the spring. or in my case balancing the carbs.
now mine didnt do it on decel or at idle but ive read reports of it acting the way yours is.
its at least worth a look before you spend time and money in other areas.
09-19-2014, 09:18 AM
#5
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Unfortunately, it's not the carb slides.
Last year, I had the airbox off and started the bike. I wanted to see the carb slides moving when I gave it throttle. I never had a vehicle with a CV carb before and wanted to see them work. You could watch the carb slides move, but they did not correlate with the metal on metal high pitch ticking noise.
EDIT:
I switched from the stock slide springs to D.J. "short" slide springs and also plugged one factory hole on each slide when I did the F.I.L. mod. This made no change in the ticking noise.
I will try and get a video of this ticking noise and upload it to Youtube.
Last year, I had the airbox off and started the bike. I wanted to see the carb slides moving when I gave it throttle. I never had a vehicle with a CV carb before and wanted to see them work. You could watch the carb slides move, but they did not correlate with the metal on metal high pitch ticking noise.
EDIT:
now its something to do with the front carb slide slamming shut. it can be fixed by either plugging one of the slide holes, or replacing the spring. or in my case balancing the carbs.
I will try and get a video of this ticking noise and upload it to Youtube.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 09-19-2014 at 09:28 AM.
09-19-2014, 03:48 PM
#6
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Take a piece of plastic tubing ~1/4" ID. Put one end at your ear and the other near the exhaust port. I'm betting it's an exhaust leak. If not, move the free end around until you find the source of sound. If the stethescope rod didn't help, it's probably not internal. It could also be a vacuum leak. check the carb boots.
09-19-2014, 05:34 PM
#8
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My bike makes all kinds of ticking noises, noisiest bike I have ever owned or riden I just accepted it as part of owning a big V Twin, it runs great has more power than I use and makes me smile daily.
09-19-2014, 06:56 PM
#9
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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I felt the same way. I just got used to the noises.
It's got me worried now knowing the metal ticking noise has gotten a lot louder.
I have been around I think...5 running Superhawks now, and none of them have made this noise.
I have all day tomorrow to figure out where this noise is coming from. Changing the oil & filter, new EBC clutch, and installing the +4 ignition advancer. I'll be checking the oil and cracking open the filter to see if there is any metal particulates.
It's got me worried now knowing the metal ticking noise has gotten a lot louder.
I have been around I think...5 running Superhawks now, and none of them have made this noise.
I have all day tomorrow to figure out where this noise is coming from. Changing the oil & filter, new EBC clutch, and installing the +4 ignition advancer. I'll be checking the oil and cracking open the filter to see if there is any metal particulates.
09-20-2014, 09:18 AM
#11
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Oh yeah. Very noticable metal on metal sound. Anybody can hear it. Even the wife, once clued in on what sound was the bad sound, heard it.
I feel like a dumbass just letting the noise get louder and louder and not notice it. Like I said, I just got used to it.
Heading to the garage to do the maitenence on the bike. Will report my findings later today.
I feel like a dumbass just letting the noise get louder and louder and not notice it. Like I said, I just got used to it.
Heading to the garage to do the maitenence on the bike. Will report my findings later today.
09-20-2014, 01:48 PM
#13
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Okay, this is new to me. What the hell causes this in the picture below? Not only that, but could this be the cause of my noise? Five friction discs are broken in several pieces!
This is the clutch that came with the bike. From the melted rubber on the rear tire that came with the bike, I can only assume the P.O. didn't treat the bike like an adult. Did the P.O. do this and I have just been living with it? I sure hope so.
This is the clutch that came with the bike. From the melted rubber on the rear tire that came with the bike, I can only assume the P.O. didn't treat the bike like an adult. Did the P.O. do this and I have just been living with it? I sure hope so.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 09-20-2014 at 03:07 PM.
09-20-2014, 03:06 PM
#15
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Seriously? The clutch discs destroying themselves would make a metal on metal "ticking" noise?
The clutch discs were at thier wear limit. The plates were all below thier wear limit.
One thing that is bothering me, when I pulled all the parts out, I do not have a spring seat. I have the judder spring, but no spring seat. Will this be a problem?
The clutch discs were at thier wear limit. The plates were all below thier wear limit.
One thing that is bothering me, when I pulled all the parts out, I do not have a spring seat. I have the judder spring, but no spring seat. Will this be a problem?
09-20-2014, 07:38 PM
#18
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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On the plus side, I have the fairings off and I have the paint, so it's a fantasmic time to paint 'er.
09-20-2014, 10:58 PM
#20
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09-21-2014, 03:25 AM
#22
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09-21-2014, 09:55 AM
#23
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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If a CBR900 clutch fits, perhaps the CBR900 slipper clutch would install as well?
Whenever you get details, make a new thread! I know several people that would love to have this information.
09-21-2014, 08:10 PM
#25
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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This "ticking" noise was there since day one when I assembled the bike. Having never owned a VTR before, I just thought it was one of those noises that this bike made. I felt that the clutch needed to be replaced from the first time I rode it. I had just put the thing together, so I waited on replacing the clutch. Man do I wish I didn't let that go. It made me cringe when I saw the mess on the bottom of my oil pan.
I had a good look at the edges of the pieces of clutch plates. You can clearly see the pieces were knocking, bumping, grinding into each other. This HAD to be the noise. Can't wait to fire it up and not hear that noise anymore.
09-23-2014, 01:49 PM
#28
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Speaking of which, I'm on the road right now so I can't look it up at the moment, but when does the oil go through the oil filter?
Does it go from:
oil pickup --->through the engine--->oil filter--->the oil pan?
Or, does it go from:
oil pickup --->oil filter --->THEN to the engine?
Just worried about the metal bits that have been smashing, grinding, and falling into my oil pan from the disintegrating clutch plates. Have the metal bits been traveling through my engine? Or were they stopped by the oil filter? [Fingers Crossed]I hope its the latter[/Fingers Crossed]
About the clutch basket, it looks fine visually. You can easily spin it and it doesn't look out of round. There are some wear marks where the tabs from the clutch plates were, but other than that, I think it looks good. The spring posts look good as well. No cracks or anything. I can take some pictures later if need be, but I think it is okay.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 09-23-2014 at 01:54 PM.
09-24-2014, 02:42 AM
#29
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Fooken hell, that's a mess mate.
When you put it all back together use a new oil filter and do another filter and oil soon after riding it for the first time just to be sure.
Are you replacing the Torrington race behind the basket while it is out?
I did and it was quiet for a while then the dreaded clutch rattle came back.
Good luck cobber!
When you put it all back together use a new oil filter and do another filter and oil soon after riding it for the first time just to be sure.
Are you replacing the Torrington race behind the basket while it is out?
I did and it was quiet for a while then the dreaded clutch rattle came back.
Good luck cobber!
09-24-2014, 03:27 AM
#30
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There's a nice little diagram in the manual. Strainer/pickup through the Pump then Filter. If bit's sink and stay at the bottom of the pan then you should be OK but the oil sloshes about, so any bit's that float will get sloshed about all over the place, including the gearbox.
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