Engine Question
#1
Engine Question
Since i have owned my Hawk/Storm i have been subjected to two front CCT failures, but survived both, sort of!
My last failure in october last year prompted be to buy some APE's to have some peace of mind, but since then, on occasions the engine turns over as if the battery is flat!
An example, I rode from a friends house tonight (engine cold) and it started on the button first time, get to my home town, about 10miles away, and fill the tank, go to thumb the starter and no joy (hot engine), like the battery is flat! A quick jump start off a car and i was up and running again.
My question is what could be causing this to happen, fried R/R causing battery not to charge, bare inmind that my ride to work is 10 miles each way, and dont have a problem starting it to ride home, and the bike is hooked up to a battery tender everynight.
Or when i installed the APE's would a overtight cam chain cause extra resistance and not allow the engine to turn over as freely (im hedging my bets on this one)
Or has somthing gone a bit wrong within the engine, valves, cams etc (not thinking this is the problem)
Your thoughts?
My last failure in october last year prompted be to buy some APE's to have some peace of mind, but since then, on occasions the engine turns over as if the battery is flat!
An example, I rode from a friends house tonight (engine cold) and it started on the button first time, get to my home town, about 10miles away, and fill the tank, go to thumb the starter and no joy (hot engine), like the battery is flat! A quick jump start off a car and i was up and running again.
My question is what could be causing this to happen, fried R/R causing battery not to charge, bare inmind that my ride to work is 10 miles each way, and dont have a problem starting it to ride home, and the bike is hooked up to a battery tender everynight.
Or when i installed the APE's would a overtight cam chain cause extra resistance and not allow the engine to turn over as freely (im hedging my bets on this one)
Or has somthing gone a bit wrong within the engine, valves, cams etc (not thinking this is the problem)
Your thoughts?
#2
Bad R/R, the other known issue with our bike (besides the CCTs).
Just get a Yamaha one and do the conversion, with those things taken care of the bike should last a good long time.
The #1 KB sticky: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380
Just get a Yamaha one and do the conversion, with those things taken care of the bike should last a good long time.
The #1 KB sticky: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380
#4
right i have ordered a R/R so should be here soon, I have some more questions though.
Again on the way home from work about 12miles, I stopped to pick up fuel and tried to start as the same as my first post, it wouldnt start.
Waited nearly an hour when the engine was cooler it started? no problems.
Also since i replaced the CCT's my tank range has gone from 100miles to about 80?
Your thoughts
Again on the way home from work about 12miles, I stopped to pick up fuel and tried to start as the same as my first post, it wouldnt start.
Waited nearly an hour when the engine was cooler it started? no problems.
Also since i replaced the CCT's my tank range has gone from 100miles to about 80?
Your thoughts
#7
Is it possible to cause that much drop in MPG from overtight CCT's? That seems like it would cause other problems before that kind of drag bogged down the motor. This is all just visualizations in my head, though, which also thinks that Batman is a career option.
Sounds similar to a vacuum in your fuel tank that others have had. If it happens again, try opening the gas cap and running it...
Edit: You have similar symptoms... it is usually much more sever with a full or overly full tank.
Sounds similar to a vacuum in your fuel tank that others have had. If it happens again, try opening the gas cap and running it...
Edit: You have similar symptoms... it is usually much more sever with a full or overly full tank.
#9
I didn't read all of the post- if you were able to start it off of a battery then the vacuum issue is probably a miscalculation on my part.
Just don't turn it off! Bring a second key to fill the tank while the bike is running... heh
Second key could go with your bic and smokes that you light up while you wait for the tank to fill.
Just don't turn it off! Bring a second key to fill the tank while the bike is running... heh
Second key could go with your bic and smokes that you light up while you wait for the tank to fill.
#10
Hmm, just thinking out loud here, but the cam chains do tighten up a little bit when they get hot- maybe you have them so tight that the starter can't turn over the motor when they're hot and you have to wait for them to cool down. If that's the case then you're probably putting a lot of stress on the chains and want to adjust them. Did you have the CCT's installed or do them yourself? Cause you don't need to tighten them that much, certainly not like you would tighten down an assembly bolt or anything.
Maybe that in combo with a dying starter or one not getting enough power from your R/R and electrical system...
Maybe that in combo with a dying starter or one not getting enough power from your R/R and electrical system...
Last edited by 7moore7; 01-25-2011 at 11:28 AM.
#11
Is it possible to cause that much drop in MPG from overtight CCT's? That seems like it would cause other problems before that kind of drag bogged down the motor. This is all just visualizations in my head, though, which also thinks that Batman is a career option.
Sounds similar to a vacuum in your fuel tank that others have had. If it happens again, try opening the gas cap and running it...
Edit: You have similar symptoms... it is usually much more sever with a full or overly full tank.
Sounds similar to a vacuum in your fuel tank that others have had. If it happens again, try opening the gas cap and running it...
Edit: You have similar symptoms... it is usually much more sever with a full or overly full tank.
#13
Cool. Many different ways to set tension...
If you've got a good ear, warm up the motor like Tweety said, then very slowly back out the tensioner just till you hear it rattling. Once it's rattling, turn it 1/4 back in and you should be good. The chains may rattle slightly when the motor is cold, but that will go away once it's warm...
The way that I did it b/c I had the top covers off already is to set the tension by checking the play in the cam chain. This takes a bit longer, but I didn't trust myself to do it by ear. If you have an afternoon and want to do it this way I can tell you how I did it, or you can search around here because the forum taught me how to...
If you've got a good ear, warm up the motor like Tweety said, then very slowly back out the tensioner just till you hear it rattling. Once it's rattling, turn it 1/4 back in and you should be good. The chains may rattle slightly when the motor is cold, but that will go away once it's warm...
The way that I did it b/c I had the top covers off already is to set the tension by checking the play in the cam chain. This takes a bit longer, but I didn't trust myself to do it by ear. If you have an afternoon and want to do it this way I can tell you how I did it, or you can search around here because the forum taught me how to...
#14
I never really heard the rattle when I was backing it out, so I screwed it in by hand until I felt a little resistance (very little resistance, like just touching the chain, don't clamp down on it), then backed it out about a 1/4 turn. I've had no problems.
I also tried to visualize it in my head, and decided that the whole point of the CCT is to keep the chain from popping off or slipping. So as long as it's tight enough to keep the chain from slipping, then that's perfect. Any tighter might cause problems, and won't help anything. To keep the chain from slipping, it will barely be touching the chain, if at all. I think that's the rattle that some can hear.
I also tried to visualize it in my head, and decided that the whole point of the CCT is to keep the chain from popping off or slipping. So as long as it's tight enough to keep the chain from slipping, then that's perfect. Any tighter might cause problems, and won't help anything. To keep the chain from slipping, it will barely be touching the chain, if at all. I think that's the rattle that some can hear.
#15
Actually, it should barely touch the chain when properly set... It will be tight enough to catch the chain if it lashes, stopping it from skipping... And it will be loose enough not to cause any drag...
#16
Well i had it in bits today, re-set the CCT's, used evines advice, wound it in till a little resistnace then backed it out 1/4 turn, took it out for a run to get it hot and like magic it starts when hot, it's also idling and reving more freely now so, hopefully this will have sorted out the tanke range too, but will find out for sure on next fill up.
Thanks for everyones advice
Thanks for everyones advice
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