DFL on chain sprockets
10-01-2011, 01:31 AM
#1
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Location: Santa Clara, CA
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DFL on chain sprockets
Been toying with the idea of spraying some Dry Film Lubricant on my front and rear sprocket (as they're both aluminium) to see if it would prolong the life of the sprockets at all.
I know it's not much but even still, I think that any additional lubrication on the high wear parts would be a good idea. It's pretty easy to apply (I bought a hobby air brush kit just for it) and am gonna put it on my cam sprockets and lobes because I've got a few oz. of the stuff left over.
I don't wanna tear into the transmission to coat that and even still I'd have someone spray that professionally. Outside of that, anyone have idea's of fun things to waste the spray on
I know it's not much but even still, I think that any additional lubrication on the high wear parts would be a good idea. It's pretty easy to apply (I bought a hobby air brush kit just for it) and am gonna put it on my cam sprockets and lobes because I've got a few oz. of the stuff left over.
I don't wanna tear into the transmission to coat that and even still I'd have someone spray that professionally. Outside of that, anyone have idea's of fun things to waste the spray on
10-01-2011, 03:00 AM
#2
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Location: Central Fl.
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What is it made of? The primary purpose?
How about using it to lube the pivots for the brake/clutch lever, the throttle cables, the moving parts on the carbs, the through bolts for the shock linkage an the latch mechanism for the seat?
Been using Teflon brand for all that and the drive chain as well. When the carrier solvent evaporates, the Teflon lubricates wonderfully and does not attract dirt. Got 25K miles on the last drive chain.
But if you have something better. . .
How about using it to lube the pivots for the brake/clutch lever, the throttle cables, the moving parts on the carbs, the through bolts for the shock linkage an the latch mechanism for the seat?
Been using Teflon brand for all that and the drive chain as well. When the carrier solvent evaporates, the Teflon lubricates wonderfully and does not attract dirt. Got 25K miles on the last drive chain.
But if you have something better. . .
10-03-2011, 11:29 PM
#3
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I don't know it's chemical composition but it's the same type of dry film that you can use on the internals of the engine (skirts of pistons ect...)
It's a bake on lubricant and it's supposed to be used in places where lubrication is a necessity and it is beneficial to have something on there thats more permanent.
The parts need to be able to withstand 350 degree baking temp for an hour so it's pretty much exclusive to metal parts with no integrated plastics and it's only .0015" thick so it can go on essentially anything without changing crucial dimensions.
I had contemplated doing the diaphram guides on the carbs as I'm going to put on a ceramic heat barrier coating on the outside, but I don't think that my gun will fit in the slide holes to allow for a light and even coat.
When I take my front end off I was thinking about doing the guides for the triple and maybe even the fork tubes themselves in a rebuild, but I do not know it's resistance to chemicals to the tune of brake fluid or fork oil.
I'd assume they'd hold up properly so I might test it on the forks of one of my other bikes before I do it on my daily rider.
Assuming it resists brake fluid I'm planning on pulling out the pistons in the calipers and coating them as well and seeing how that effects over-all ease of braking.
Might be minuscule or otherwise indistinguishable, but hey, it's fun right! hahahaha.
Another place I could probably put some on is the threads of the crank cover bolt as I had a hard enough time taking the last one out to justify making sure it doesn't happen again. Thread release is good, but DFL is better
Coating the right clip-on at the throttle tube wouldn't be a bad idea either!
It's a bake on lubricant and it's supposed to be used in places where lubrication is a necessity and it is beneficial to have something on there thats more permanent.
The parts need to be able to withstand 350 degree baking temp for an hour so it's pretty much exclusive to metal parts with no integrated plastics and it's only .0015" thick so it can go on essentially anything without changing crucial dimensions.
I had contemplated doing the diaphram guides on the carbs as I'm going to put on a ceramic heat barrier coating on the outside, but I don't think that my gun will fit in the slide holes to allow for a light and even coat.
When I take my front end off I was thinking about doing the guides for the triple and maybe even the fork tubes themselves in a rebuild, but I do not know it's resistance to chemicals to the tune of brake fluid or fork oil.
I'd assume they'd hold up properly so I might test it on the forks of one of my other bikes before I do it on my daily rider.
Assuming it resists brake fluid I'm planning on pulling out the pistons in the calipers and coating them as well and seeing how that effects over-all ease of braking.
Might be minuscule or otherwise indistinguishable, but hey, it's fun right! hahahaha.
Another place I could probably put some on is the threads of the crank cover bolt as I had a hard enough time taking the last one out to justify making sure it doesn't happen again. Thread release is good, but DFL is better
Coating the right clip-on at the throttle tube wouldn't be a bad idea either!
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