Dead Spot Help!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 21
From: Fall River , Massachusetts
Fail
i just plugged the 3rd hole on the slides took her for a spin and it still has the hesitation. first gear i can WOT up to those rpms no problem. but rolling in 2nd at 50 mph about 4,500 then WOT it and it stutters till 7,000rpm. this still sound like a slide speed issue? assuming i definitely have to get the factory springs.. it seems like its somewhat better tho.
what does the superhawk come with for a pilot from the factory, i see you want me to put a #48 the dynojet kit does not come with a new pilot jet so i believe that is factory.
i ordered the #48 pilots and the factory slide springs
what does the superhawk come with for a pilot from the factory, i see you want me to put a #48 the dynojet kit does not come with a new pilot jet so i believe that is factory.
i ordered the #48 pilots and the factory slide springs
Last edited by x2metalchild1x; May 25, 2015 at 06:15 PM.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,252
From: boston
First of all factory pilots are #45, Factory Pro jet kits come with a #50 but in most cases people have found #48's to work the best.
Second of all your front slide should have 2 holes, one for the needle (center) and one on one of the sides with the other side filled in. The rear slide should have 3 holes, the center one for the needle and the two on each side from the factory.
Third of all, your not going to get rid of the flat spot by changing one out of the two or three things you need to change, this will take time and trial and error... I can guarantee by the time you get your carbs sorted out, you will not only be ecstatic over how awesome this bike is but youll also be able to park the bike, pull the tank/airbox/carbs, rejet and put it back together and start it up in under a half hour...
And lastly, these are carbs not FI... these wont automatically adjust for different mods, different riding styles, different elevations or environmental conditions... There is no "one and ya done kid, youll be the baddest dude in revere" with carbs... you'll get to know your carbs very well
BTW I'm not trying to sound like a dick
And can I get a like from whoever knows that reference
Second of all your front slide should have 2 holes, one for the needle (center) and one on one of the sides with the other side filled in. The rear slide should have 3 holes, the center one for the needle and the two on each side from the factory.
Third of all, your not going to get rid of the flat spot by changing one out of the two or three things you need to change, this will take time and trial and error... I can guarantee by the time you get your carbs sorted out, you will not only be ecstatic over how awesome this bike is but youll also be able to park the bike, pull the tank/airbox/carbs, rejet and put it back together and start it up in under a half hour...
And lastly, these are carbs not FI... these wont automatically adjust for different mods, different riding styles, different elevations or environmental conditions... There is no "one and ya done kid, youll be the baddest dude in revere" with carbs... you'll get to know your carbs very well
BTW I'm not trying to sound like a dick
And can I get a like from whoever knows that reference
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 21
From: Fall River , Massachusetts
So I have a order with with part zilla. Factory slide springs and those 48# pilot jets. Should I bite the bullet and pay the 40 dollars for the factory needles or should it be easy enough to make the dynojet one work. I really don't want to pull this apart a million times
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 283
From: Dallas, TX
So I have a order with with part zilla. Factory slide springs and those 48# pilot jets. Should I bite the bullet and pay the 40 dollars for the factory needles or should it be easy enough to make the dynojet one work. I really don't want to pull this apart a million times
Let me tell you, it gets really easy to pull apart after the first couple of hundred times.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 189
Some things to remember - eliminate problems prior to "tuning":
did the shop synchronize the carbs after rejet? out of synch carbs will contribute to issues, but are usually more of an issue at low rpm
are the choke fittings broken where the choke cables enter the carbs? stock they are plastic and break - broken fittings can leave you chasing air leaks, or one or both chokes that occasionally stick on
are the rubber boots between the carbs and engine, or any of the vacuum hoses cracked, or not plugged correctly if the pair system has been pulled? air leaks will cause momentary issues that will drive you nuts.
Finally - the bike will run pretty well with darn close to stock jetting - one or two steps richer on the mains (which you have) and maybe an extra shim under the stock needles.
The DJ needles and springs can complicate the process - and many, including myself, gave up on them.
A dyno will help you diagnose the issue, as long as the dyno operator understands your goal - diagnosing fuel mixture at multiple rpm and operating conditions, including cruise, idle, WOT, and whacking the throttle open from different rpm. You will then be able to see if the bike is going rich or lean when you get the stutter, and reduce some of the trial and error.
Finally, know what each carb circuit primarily affects:
fuel screw - primarily idle
pilots - idle and small throttle openings
needles - small to large throttle openings at mid-rpm
mains - large throttle openings and high rpm
slide holes - more = faster opening, less = slower opening
all the circuits do overlap somewhat, and have small affects on each other.
change one at a time if you can, to try to determine the affect.
did the shop synchronize the carbs after rejet? out of synch carbs will contribute to issues, but are usually more of an issue at low rpm
are the choke fittings broken where the choke cables enter the carbs? stock they are plastic and break - broken fittings can leave you chasing air leaks, or one or both chokes that occasionally stick on
are the rubber boots between the carbs and engine, or any of the vacuum hoses cracked, or not plugged correctly if the pair system has been pulled? air leaks will cause momentary issues that will drive you nuts.
Finally - the bike will run pretty well with darn close to stock jetting - one or two steps richer on the mains (which you have) and maybe an extra shim under the stock needles.
The DJ needles and springs can complicate the process - and many, including myself, gave up on them.
A dyno will help you diagnose the issue, as long as the dyno operator understands your goal - diagnosing fuel mixture at multiple rpm and operating conditions, including cruise, idle, WOT, and whacking the throttle open from different rpm. You will then be able to see if the bike is going rich or lean when you get the stutter, and reduce some of the trial and error.
Finally, know what each carb circuit primarily affects:
fuel screw - primarily idle
pilots - idle and small throttle openings
needles - small to large throttle openings at mid-rpm
mains - large throttle openings and high rpm
slide holes - more = faster opening, less = slower opening
all the circuits do overlap somewhat, and have small affects on each other.
change one at a time if you can, to try to determine the affect.
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,312
From: Brookfield, WI
Regarding the needles, Dyno Jet needle and the stock needle have the exact same profile. Dyno Jet just has different clip positions.
*Sorry for the crappy condition of the stock needle. Yes, it is also bent*
*Sorry for the crappy condition of the stock needle. Yes, it is also bent*
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 21
From: Fall River , Massachusetts
Thanks guys
I Cant belive how helpful everyone has been thanks all of you! 
I Read the carb setup thread all 11 pages of it and it seems there is alot of happy people with the set up and i really think trying hawks set up is the way to go. and from everyone that has given me input on this thread
i wanted to replace the dynojet springs and plug the holes but then, all the what ifs with dynojet JETS and needles.
So arriving hopefully by mid next week i have
- 175 Factory JET
- 178 Factory JET
- 2 - #48 pilot jets
- 2 Factory slide Springs
- 1 Factory Front Slide Needle
- 1 Factory Rear Slide Needle
- Pair Deletion plates figured why not while im in there
and on top of that i have practically two full dyno jet , jet kit sets now unfortunately. Andy I have given up before i even started lol
Im going to do exactly what 8541HAWK says to do in his carb setup and hope it works. Im using stock paper air intake filter and just D&D Slip ons. and if it doesnt atleast i dont have to spend anymore money this bike is killing me lol.I Really just want to enjoy have alot of nice places to ride with bike some nice rounds in Newport RI alot of curves havent been able to ride it on a twin.
I Read the carb setup thread all 11 pages of it and it seems there is alot of happy people with the set up and i really think trying hawks set up is the way to go. and from everyone that has given me input on this thread
i wanted to replace the dynojet springs and plug the holes but then, all the what ifs with dynojet JETS and needles.
So arriving hopefully by mid next week i have
- 175 Factory JET
- 178 Factory JET
- 2 - #48 pilot jets
- 2 Factory slide Springs
- 1 Factory Front Slide Needle
- 1 Factory Rear Slide Needle
- Pair Deletion plates figured why not while im in there
and on top of that i have practically two full dyno jet , jet kit sets now unfortunately. Andy I have given up before i even started lol
Im going to do exactly what 8541HAWK says to do in his carb setup and hope it works. Im using stock paper air intake filter and just D&D Slip ons. and if it doesnt atleast i dont have to spend anymore money this bike is killing me lol.I Really just want to enjoy have alot of nice places to ride with bike some nice rounds in Newport RI alot of curves havent been able to ride it on a twin.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 21
From: Fall River , Massachusetts
UPDATE!!
I Thinks she is all set!! I just followed Hawks carb set up
178/175 Factory Jets
#48 Pilots
Factory Needles
2.25 turns in front 2.50 in back
.40 shim in front without factory shim
.40 shim in back with factory shim/washer
two holes in rear slide, one in front
Removed PAIR System!!
Set TPS to 520
Replaced destroyed foamys with new ones!
I haven't ridden it yet but she sounds mean. see the following video.No back firing or nothing
https://youtu.be/7UkbXRHp98o
Cant Wait to ride her, I want to thank everyone for all the support and detailed information there is no way I would of even attempted this without all the help.
178/175 Factory Jets
#48 Pilots
Factory Needles
2.25 turns in front 2.50 in back
.40 shim in front without factory shim
.40 shim in back with factory shim/washer
two holes in rear slide, one in front
Removed PAIR System!!
Set TPS to 520
Replaced destroyed foamys with new ones!
I haven't ridden it yet but she sounds mean. see the following video.No back firing or nothing
https://youtu.be/7UkbXRHp98o
Cant Wait to ride her, I want to thank everyone for all the support and detailed information there is no way I would of even attempted this without all the help.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,252
From: boston
Good for you man!
You may have tweaking left to do but atleast you will have a solid starting point. If you havent done so/dont have a carb sync tool your gonna want to sync them. Theres plenty of threads on here regarding it but you can always bring it to your shop and have them sync them for you.
You may have tweaking left to do but atleast you will have a solid starting point. If you havent done so/dont have a carb sync tool your gonna want to sync them. Theres plenty of threads on here regarding it but you can always bring it to your shop and have them sync them for you.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 21
From: Fall River , Massachusetts
Success!
Just took her out pulled a wheelie without any hesitation in first gear and It was honestly an accident and im 285 pound rider damn.. this feels like a whole new bike she pulls like all hell no more hesitation in WOT between 5-7k it feels really good, sounds really good!! The only thing I think I did is put the throttle cable on too tight, really responsive and tight see if I can get used to it don't wanna pull her apart again for something silly like that.
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
Just took her out pulled a wheelie without any hesitation in first gear and It was honestly an accident and im 285 pound rider damn.. this feels like a whole new bike she pulls like all hell no more hesitation in WOT between 5-7k it feels really good, sounds really good!! The only thing I think I did is put the throttle cable on too tight, really responsive and tight see if I can get used to it don't wanna pull her apart again for something silly like that.
and yeah I am pretty good with the old school carbs.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 21
From: Fall River , Massachusetts
Awesome
Thats cool i was hoping i could adjust that there , thank you for that carb set up post i followed it 100% and it worked, it really feels totally different. me and my fiance did the full rebuild we have never done anything like this before and we did it feels awesome.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,252
From: boston
Thats cool i was hoping i could adjust that there , thank you for that carb set up post i followed it 100% and it worked, it really feels totally different. me and my fiance did the full rebuild we have never done anything like this before and we did it feels awesome.
for some its not one decisive moment but for you.... just sayin, I look forward to your next adventure
lol
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