dead battery and stalled VTR
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13
From: Canmore, Alberta, Canada
dead battery and stalled VTR
Hi all. I have been having to bump start my bike over the last few days. I was riding home last night and it died on the side of the highway. No lights or sniff of electrical power. How do I determine if it is the R/R or the alternator/generator?
Thanks for the tips
Torie
Thanks for the tips
Torie
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,707
From: Essex, UK
Check 30amp main fuse and if a battery terminal connector hasn't vibrated loose. What's the battery voltage?
If connectors fine and clean & tight, and fuse fine - Start by replacing battery & R/R (with later upgraded finned version, or better yet MOSFET version). You can run tests of the charging system (see downloadable searchable Honda VTR Service manual) but catch 22 it needs to be working first…
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF
If connectors fine and clean & tight, and fuse fine - Start by replacing battery & R/R (with later upgraded finned version, or better yet MOSFET version). You can run tests of the charging system (see downloadable searchable Honda VTR Service manual) but catch 22 it needs to be working first…
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,707
From: Essex, UK
Could be - that's why I asked what's the voltage?
If low/flat then the question is why? Is it charging or has the battery given up. Then he can try charging it off the bike and seeing how far he gets. Or he can replace it. Then that risks if the failure was caused by R/R taking out the new battery - so hence why changing his R/R esp if it has the original unfinned R/R as it a well known point of failure.
If low/flat then the question is why? Is it charging or has the battery given up. Then he can try charging it off the bike and seeing how far he gets. Or he can replace it. Then that risks if the failure was caused by R/R taking out the new battery - so hence why changing his R/R esp if it has the original unfinned R/R as it a well known point of failure.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 972
Hi all. I have been having to bump start my bike over the last few days. I was riding home last night and it died on the side of the highway. No lights or sniff of electrical power. How do I determine if it is the R/R or the alternator/generator?
just happened to me...dead cell in battery. Replaced battery with slightly oversized Duracell (2 year warranty) and it's been A O K
Thanks for the tips
Torie
just happened to me...dead cell in battery. Replaced battery with slightly oversized Duracell (2 year warranty) and it's been A O K
Thanks for the tips
Torie
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13
From: Canmore, Alberta, Canada
I'll charge the battery and recheck. Seems strange to me that the bike wouldn't stay running on its own power while riding though even if the battery were dead. Unless it just "trickels" the charge in :-)
Thanks for the ideas
Thanks for the ideas
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13
From: Canmore, Alberta, Canada
Sorry for the delay...I got a new battery and dropped it in. I rode it around the block and parked it. A week later battery is totally dead! No voltage. What the...?
Torie
Torie
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
You need to do actual diagnosis , not just parts swapping if you want to find a solution.
You will need a volt/ ohm meter that is known to be accurate.
Then check all connections, battery, stator, R/R.
Then with a charged battery
Find Key off voltage, Key on voltage, running at idle voltage, running at 5k RPM voltage.
Test the stator legs, Yellow to Yellow.. should, have very low resistance and full continuity
Stator yellow to ground, all three, should be open, NO continuity to ground.
Stator AC output voltage check
And if your meter had a diode function you can test the regulator,, though Id replace it out of hand even if it was working with a MOFSET style.. used from like an R1, or a brand new one someplace like Home
With the new R/R Id suggest bypassing the OEM charge and ground wires in the harness, and go from R/R straight to battery and ground. Use high quality marine grade tinned wire in 10ga, soldiered or professionally crimped terminals
You will need a volt/ ohm meter that is known to be accurate.
Then check all connections, battery, stator, R/R.
Then with a charged battery
Find Key off voltage, Key on voltage, running at idle voltage, running at 5k RPM voltage.
Test the stator legs, Yellow to Yellow.. should, have very low resistance and full continuity
Stator yellow to ground, all three, should be open, NO continuity to ground.
Stator AC output voltage check
And if your meter had a diode function you can test the regulator,, though Id replace it out of hand even if it was working with a MOFSET style.. used from like an R1, or a brand new one someplace like Home
With the new R/R Id suggest bypassing the OEM charge and ground wires in the harness, and go from R/R straight to battery and ground. Use high quality marine grade tinned wire in 10ga, soldiered or professionally crimped terminals
Last edited by E.Marquez; Aug 11, 2015 at 01:11 PM.
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