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Crank Case replacement

Old 01-26-2006, 12:50 PM
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Crank Case replacement

Hi all, I'm new to the forum so this might have already popped up in some previous threads.
I finally went down on a sandy corner and ground through my crank case. I am trying to replace it but don't know what to do around the radiator water assembly. I have the case mostly off but don't know how to remove the metal fan in the coolant feed line....

Any suggestions would be helpful or if anyone knows of a website with instructions on crankcase replacement would also help.

Thanks
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Old 01-26-2006, 01:36 PM
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You REALLY need a service manual for this. The waterpump is an intergal part of the clutch cover as you have now found out. You'll need several more parts and special tools to replace the pump.

Don't be afraid of the search button. It really works on this site. I know on other forums they can be a joke sometimes. There's a link to an online source to DL the manual too IIRC.

Good luck.
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Old 02-01-2006, 01:35 AM
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Re: Crank Case replacement

I'm with Bling...REALLY need the service manual. Being able to see the correct placement of the parts is invaluable. Just for REFERENCE here is what I did. I am not a mechanic so my methods might not be sound (or sane).

When I replaced my case cover I used a drill press (de-energized) with the outside of the case supported on wood blocks and a small piece of wood over the shaft to press out the water pump. I used small angled metal pick (like a dentist's pick) and needle nose pliers to remove the mechanical seal (tore off the spring first) and then picked out the oil seal. It was not pretty but it worked. You will need to replace the mechanical seal and the oil seal anyway so order them ahead of time.

To get the bearing out I supported the outside of the case on wood blocks and used a deep socket that made good contact with the inner bearing race and hammered it out carefully (patience). I was able to reuse my bearing.

Putting it all back together was fairly easy. I used a socket large enough to engulf the mechanical seal spring and still make contact with the metal ring seat it and tapped it in carefully. You need to grease the oil seal before installing it. The only place I had a little trouble was getting the bearing fully seated. It started to go in on an angle. I had to support the case from inside so I could apply a little more persuasion to the bearing and then it seated correctly. Lastly I pressed the water pump back in while supporting the inner bearing race. This is how I did mine since I did not have the "Honda" tools available.

Good luck getting yours installed.
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Old 02-01-2006, 08:41 AM
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I went through the clutch side cover on mine as well. Check it thouroughly. Many times the clutch basket will be damaged. I checked mine with a caliper and fortunately it was perfectly round and undamaged. I pulled the clutch off anyway and there was dirt packed in behind the clutch. I now have the cases split open and there was more dirt in and around the transmission so its coming apart. Ugly... But I want it to be clean.
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Old 02-01-2006, 09:43 AM
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Re: Crank Case replacement

RCVTR brings up a good point. Check your inner clutch also. One of the towers the bolts go into sheared off on mine. You might not see it unless you open it up for inspection.
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Old 02-04-2006, 05:59 PM
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Upon closer inspection, I found dirt in the cylinder bores (no surprise there). So I'm in to a full disassembly. All so some lucky guy can go out and enjoy my engine. At least I'll know it's good to go. I'll feel better about it that way.

If you punch a hole in the case, you fill the engine with dirt!
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