Plan9racing

The pressure in the handle has decreased over time. It was subtle at first, but the useful pull on the handle lessned until it seemed to be fully engaged less than inch from the bar. Now it won't disengage at all. Help? Ideas? Thanks.

E.Marquez

Flush and then bleed, then back bleed from Slave to master.

Will "fix it" but likely the issue will come back as air is getting into the system.
If you want to do the job once and be done with it for anther few years..
Disassemble and detail clean both master and slave, replace all the service parts (seals, cups, springs clips) then fill, bleed and back bleed.
Flush and bleed once a year and it'll last longer then you will.

Plan9racing

Hey, thanks for your response. It was low on fluid and I bled it until i had fresh fluid coming out. It did come back to life. Maybe a dumb question, but what is back bleeding? I'm sure you're right about rebuilding and maintaining it. I've definitely neglected it.

fabiostar

by back bleeding he means actually pumping fluid at the bottom of the system. as in through the bleed nipple forcing the air upwards.

Plan9racing

Thats what it sounded like, and thank you for the clarification. Never done that before, but i think i have a brake bleed kit somewhere that will allow me to do that.

fabiostar

the clutches can be a pain in the *** to bleed.

E.Marquez

Find a animal supply shop, buy a few syringes to back bleed with
I use these https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...2?cm_vc=-10005

60cc, with a Luer slip tip on them, makes for easy hook up to tubing the right size for bleeding.

Back bleeding...the idea is to push fluid and trapped air UP the line and fittings to the master cylinder.... if you secure the line well to bleed nipple and syringe you can get a good pressure and volume.
Dont forget to wrap the bleeder screw threads with a few wraps of Teflon tape and I use small zip ties to secure the hose to nipple and syringe