Clutch slipping after stop and go traffic?
#1
Clutch slipping after stop and go traffic?
Hi guys,
Just got a superhawk and today was the first day hot enough to ride it to work... well, I had to drive through the city since I've only got my permit (no interstates) and after I got out of it the bike was pretty warm (fine temperature wise, but the oil was definitely hot)
I went to rip on second gear and I got the dreaded "BBRRRrRRRRRRrrrrR" with no power being transferred
So my clutch is definitely slipping. I have a lot of mechanical experience, because I own shitty old BMWs, and have experienced these same symptoms from failing car clutches... it is quite clear what is happening.
Is it absolutely the clutch? I do leak some oil, does lower oil cause problems like this?
Another thing to mention is shifting into first from neutral results in a small lurch forward and an audible mechanical clunking, but I've always had that on every bike, so I'm not worried.. my 1st to 2nd gear shift feels a little iffy, but grabs easy.
Just got a superhawk and today was the first day hot enough to ride it to work... well, I had to drive through the city since I've only got my permit (no interstates) and after I got out of it the bike was pretty warm (fine temperature wise, but the oil was definitely hot)
I went to rip on second gear and I got the dreaded "BBRRRrRRRRRRrrrrR" with no power being transferred
So my clutch is definitely slipping. I have a lot of mechanical experience, because I own shitty old BMWs, and have experienced these same symptoms from failing car clutches... it is quite clear what is happening.
Is it absolutely the clutch? I do leak some oil, does lower oil cause problems like this?
Another thing to mention is shifting into first from neutral results in a small lurch forward and an audible mechanical clunking, but I've always had that on every bike, so I'm not worried.. my 1st to 2nd gear shift feels a little iffy, but grabs easy.
#4
I'd start with bleeding and replacing the hydraulic fluid. Good chance that's all it needs if the fluid is old or you have air in the system, exasperated by the heat. Also, how old and what kind of oil do you have in the bike?
The lurch from neutral to first is pretty standard, nothing to worry about.
The lurch from neutral to first is pretty standard, nothing to worry about.
#5
What kind of motor oil You have in there.
It's a wet clutch and it takes only certain types of oil,this could be a cause too.
Look into this and when you find oil You happy with.use it for every change.
It's a wet clutch and it takes only certain types of oil,this could be a cause too.
Look into this and when you find oil You happy with.use it for every change.
#6
The oil is probably old. The people I bought it from didn't really know anything about the bike, and I didn't get an owner's manual or anything.
How many qts of oil does it take, and what's the best oil to use?
Is there a DIY for the hydraulic fluid flush?
How many qts of oil does it take, and what's the best oil to use?
Is there a DIY for the hydraulic fluid flush?
#7
http://www.superhawk996.net/Honda_VT...ice_Manual.pdf
Is your handle HanGERbaby this kind of hanger
Or this kind of hanGAR?
Is your handle HanGERbaby this kind of hanger
Or this kind of hanGAR?
Last edited by RWhisen; 04-23-2012 at 05:47 PM.
#16
You are experiencing symptoms of a worn clutch. But, it could also be a combination of things such as previously mentioned in this thread. I had some light occasional clutch slippage years ago soon after I put this Hawk on the road. It had about 12k miles at the time. I found some good reports online about oil in motorcycles and decided to go with Rotella 15W40. After the first change the slippage never occurred again. Tranny was smoother too.
I am not positive, but I THINK the first oil I had in it was Honda?
I am not positive, but I THINK the first oil I had in it was Honda?
#18
i would change and bleed the clutch lines and change motor oil.
mine had little problem like that,it was little,but i noticed.
i changed oil to mobil1 synthetic v-twin oil.not a problem since.
while you are at it,change all the brake fluids too and bleed them.get it all done at once.
mine had little problem like that,it was little,but i noticed.
i changed oil to mobil1 synthetic v-twin oil.not a problem since.
while you are at it,change all the brake fluids too and bleed them.get it all done at once.
#21
#23
because its a wet clutch,it cant have any energy conserving ingredients in it.
if you are carefull,you will find plenty of different choices of oit that will be good for the hawk.
and find a good filter for it.there is a link with the cross reference in my other post.
if you are carefull,you will find plenty of different choices of oit that will be good for the hawk.
and find a good filter for it.there is a link with the cross reference in my other post.
#25
Update: I changed the oil to 20w-50 mobil1 vtwin motorcycle oil as recommended. I thought it fixed the problem.
Drove to chipotle for lunch today, all was well, but when I was leaving I noticed the bike was particularly hard to engage the clutch. I had to slip it to get it to move for an unreasonable amount of time. I almost got rear ended because I couldn't gain any speed. It got slightly better as I was moving but still, its nearly undrivable.
One thing I noticed was my clutch fluid reservoir is 100% empty. I am assuming this is what is causing my problem. Is it typical for the clutch to slip / not engage fully when the fluid is empty? My guess is yes.. but looking for a confirmation.
Drove to chipotle for lunch today, all was well, but when I was leaving I noticed the bike was particularly hard to engage the clutch. I had to slip it to get it to move for an unreasonable amount of time. I almost got rear ended because I couldn't gain any speed. It got slightly better as I was moving but still, its nearly undrivable.
One thing I noticed was my clutch fluid reservoir is 100% empty. I am assuming this is what is causing my problem. Is it typical for the clutch to slip / not engage fully when the fluid is empty? My guess is yes.. but looking for a confirmation.
#26
Yes it can cause the problem...... The one time mine got low I also had the slipping issues.
You might want to remove the slave cylinder and check to make sure it is not leaking while you are at it.
You might want to remove the slave cylinder and check to make sure it is not leaking while you are at it.
#27
at this point,you have to take slave off and clean it out thoroughly,clean all around the area very good.take apart the slave cylinder and look for any damage,scoring,gunk,clean it all out.
once its back together,fill with fluid,bleed properly.after its all done.keep a eye on it for leaks.constantly check from the cup,all the way down to the slave cylinder.
on the sprocket cover,you can feel it if its leaking.there is a little hole on the bottom that it would come out of.
this should get you back on track,but there could be a leak,so you might have to get a rebuild kit.good luck.
#30
Generally if you have air in your clutch system it'll not dissengage the clutch. It won't cause slippage issues being the fluid opens the clutch, not holds it closed. The exception to this would be if the return ports in the master cylinder are plugged it might not let the fluid return properly and could cause some slippage issues.