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chain thread

Old 07-06-2011, 06:40 AM
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chain thread

I've been running a DID 530 o-ring gold chain for about 3000 miles now, maybe more like 4000. anyways, I have experimented with the stock front and rear sprockets as well as some up/down combos playing with the gearing over the past couple months. All the sprockets I ave used are steel, no aluminum. However for some reason my chain just keeps stretching, more and more, I clean it, wax it almost every ride. Maybe just my riding style (i.e. heavy engine braking and accel)
I like to keep its tension around 1" slack (up/down) but after about 3 or 4 days I have to tighten it again. It's too the point where I just don't ride it any more and I need to buy a new chain.

Reccomendations?

Last edited by nothing; 07-06-2011 at 06:43 AM. Reason: chain specs.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:34 AM
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How many miles on your VTR? How many miles on the sprockets you have on now? What brand of sprockets are you using? What condition are the sprockets in? Do you check wheel alignment after you adjust the chain? Have you asked a really beefy person to sit on your bike to compress the rear suspension so that you can check chain tension?
DID 530's are expensive. You should be able to ride 20,000 mi. before the chain needs to be replaced.
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:06 AM
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There are 25k miles on the bike, the aftermarket sprockets were new when I bought them with the chain, maybe about 3000 on them and the stock ones 25k - 3k. the front was I believe sunstar and rear JT, the aftermarket rear is pretty much smoked (the galleys were worn larger), front is ok. I always make sure the wheel is aligned according to the tensioner marks.

As far as having someone sit on it, I just really do that myself. I don't weigh a whole lot maybe just shy of 200lbs I would consider that a pretty accurate chain tightness from when i do sit and measure it. I was honestly disappointed by the life of the chain, maybe I'll try a 520 setup next (!!!). No probably not, I just would like some reccomendations of what sprockets other people use so I can go ahead and get another DID 530 and maybe not worry about it. Maybe it was my sprockets?
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:15 AM
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What's the cush drive like?

Don't rely on the chain wear indicators to get alignment perfect. I use a 530 heavy Duty X-ring chain with steel sprockets (standard gearing) and a scottoiler, change cush drive when freeplay becomes apparent. I get 20,000 miles per C&Ss

Last edited by Wicky; 07-06-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:21 AM
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what is cush drive? those rubber things inside/behind the sprocket? I mean I think they look fine, one pair was separated/torn where the little piece is holding them together. seemed alright as far as I could tell, and they installed fine.

Last edited by nothing; 07-06-2011 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:14 PM
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i.e. heavy engine braking and accel)
over 25,000 miles
I think they look fine
They might look fine but if your riding style is as you say above then you'll be putting them under load along with your chain. If you put the bike on a rear stand and try and rotate the rear wheel by hand if there's excessive play then the cush drive is shagged (a bodge is to shim them with thin plastic from ice cream tubs or similar.

Back to chain and sprockets - Do you clean the chain regularly (what with? WD40 or proper chain cleaner) or just keep adding lube?

Geology Question - Do you ride through or near sand quarries? (I did to work for a while and it made a grinding paste that kills C&S - once I avoided that route things got better.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:26 PM
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hmm I'm going to have to inspect the cush things then, thanks for that. as far as the chain, the cush could very well be the problem. usually to clean it, I just wipe all the grime off of the outside with a clean rag and then apply some chain wax I bought at a local store, usually clean it about once a week, sometimes more often.

I had ridden in some heavy rain a week or so before I started noticing these problems, I remember that because it was the worst rain I've ever ridden in, twice in one week! I never dried it, just pulled in the garage and it sat. There could be the problem as well.
There is very little sand around here, especially on the roads (thank you jesus) so that shouldn't be an issue. I'll just have to order another chain, since this one is maxxed out, some new cush drive things (accordingly to my inspection results) and sprockets. heh... $$$
Thank you Wicky for your help!
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:36 PM
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Are the tensioner marks staying put? I recently set chain tension and then went for a ride and noticed that the marks had moved significantly during the ride, and my chain tension was no longer where I set it. I then reset the tension, and then backed off the tensioner bolt a little (to get it to that "free play" range) after everything was lined up, and that seemed to fix the problem.

So I guess my question is . . . is the chain really stretching? Or is the tensioner loosening up when you ride?
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:56 PM
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I'd expect to have to adjust a new chain early on at least twice as it beds in. After that nothing for quite a few thou miles until when the chain begins to suddenly 'stretch' as it gets to the end of its life.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:57 PM
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No it's stretching, the axle I have tightened down very tight (not too tight) after all my adjustments. they haven't moved to my knowledge, I keep getting closer and closer to the "replace chain" area on the stickers down there. I made this thread now that I am in the replace chain area.

I also should note that when changing out sprockets for example from a larger rear to a smaller rear, that the chain will "appear" longer and be in the "replace chain" zone. I cut the chain to the stock link amount right when I got it and have been running the same sprocket setup for a while now, but it is right there in the replace chain zone

And Wicky to your last post, I did initially adjust the thing the typical one or two times, but it just kept needing to be adjusted. The "initial adjustments" never stopped!
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:19 PM
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Is the bearing in the cush drive good? Are the bolts holding on the rear sprocket tight? It's odd that the rear sprocket is shot and the front is OK.
I got about 60,000 km. from the original sprockets. The steel AFAM sprockets I've got now show a negligible amount of wear after 23,000 km.
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:05 PM
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Recommended chain slack is 1.2 to 1.6 inches. You're adjusting it too tight, and that's probably what's stretching it.

Also, the rear axle nut should be torqued to 69 foot pounds. It's a good idea to invest in a torque wrench.

Last edited by VTRsurfer; 07-06-2011 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nothing View Post
I've been running a DID 530 o-ring gold chain for about 3000 miles now, maybe more like 4000. anyways, I have experimented with the stock front and rear sprockets as well as some up/down combos playing with the gearing over the past couple months. All the sprockets I ave used are steel, no aluminum. However for some reason my chain just keeps stretching, more and more, I clean it, wax it almost every ride. Maybe just my riding style (i.e. heavy engine braking and accel)
I like to keep its tension around 1" slack (up/down) but after about 3 or 4 days I have to tighten it again. It's too the point where I just don't ride it any more and I need to buy a new chain.

Recommendations?
1" (25mm) is not enough for standard suspension set up. If the the rear shock is shimmed, then you really are too tight. I've said this a few times on other posts, the more the rear is shimmed, the more slack the chain requires. As the bike compresses, the swing arm goes through its arc of movement upwards. When the swing arm is fully extended i.e. horizontal, the chain will bind. If in doubt, sit on the bike and have 2 people push down on the rear and when the swing arm is horizontal, check the tension. A friend of mine was complaining of poor suspension at the track and we check his chain this way and voila, problem solve. It was binding on the upstroke.
If this isn't your problem then look at your sprockets. Are they worn versus a new chain? I always change them as a set.
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:00 PM
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+1 to D VTR RIDER
Thanks for stressing the importance of increasing chain slack when the shock is shimmed or when shock length is greater than stock on a ride height adjustable shock. I don't lengthen the shock on my VTR much because if it's lengthened too much the chain drags on the left mid-pipe when chain slack is adjusted properly.

One way to know whether there's sufficient slack is to compress the rear suspension until the centres of the countershaft, swing arm bolt and rear axle are in line (which is almost the same as saying when the swingarm is horizontal). It's difficult to do without help.

I still can't figure out why the rear sprocket on nothing's bike is more worn than the front.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:04 PM
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my shock is stock but I did recently adjust it to the top height (tighter spring). as for the chain, 1" could be too tight I guess, but I'm typically estimating it. certainly 1" in either direction seems too much to me, maybe it isn't though.
is it a bad idea to cut some links out of the chain and get a new master link? it was an expensive chain and I don't think it's overstretched, maybe I'll just buy a new one..
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:33 PM
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This may sound odd, but I adjust the chain so that I can, with a quick lift of the chain, get it to slap on the swingarm chain guard. It should just contact. When you can hold it up against the guard, it is to loose. You wont have chain stretch with this adjustment, but some may not like the "sloppiness" of it.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:00 PM
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I use a 25' Stanley tape measure, stood up on end under the chain... works great. But autoteach's seat of the pants method would work.

I adjust mine to approximately 1 1/4", but no less. I've only needed to readjust it twice in 9,000 miles since replacement. My original chain and sprockets went for 41,000 miles, but the chain was pretty much done at that point.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:38 PM
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Believe it or not, it is not the power of the twin but the force of bumps that is stretching the overtightened chain. You can almost produce a suspension bind by tightening a chain to no slack.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:36 AM
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not trying to thread jack but what would be the easiest way to break and reinstall a rivet style new chain to length from a 112 link to stock. gearing is 16/43. in shop and need it done today. sorry again. and thank u.

philip
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:35 AM
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Mine was rivet type, I took a grider wheel to one of the pins at the link I wanted removed and just shaved it down so it was smooth, and punched it through with a hammer and punch, then re-installed a new master.
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:39 PM
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thank u.
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