Chain Lube
Chain Lube
Last chain drive I had was 1978 KZ 1000..Question..what's the chain lube of choice...looked at chain threads..didn't find any mention..What are you guys using???.what does a Scotoiler put on??
Thanks
Thanks
Chain Lube
I use MotoLine Synthetic chain lube. My driveway is .2 of a mile long (dirt) so I can't use the wax base lubes, which I prefer. There are other snythetic lubes available besides MotoLine.
PJ 1 Clear synthetic. It gets very tacky and does not sling off.
I generally use oil and/or WD40 to "wash" my chain once or twice a year, let it dry overnight, then spray on the chain lube.
Works for me.
I generally use oil and/or WD40 to "wash" my chain once or twice a year, let it dry overnight, then spray on the chain lube.
Works for me.
I've read about tons of stuff after joining the net and hearing all kinds of opinions. I tried many but I only like:
WD40- cheap and is really just a cleaner/light oil. I prefer to use it on long trips to conserve tankbag space.
Honda HP chain wax-goes on gray and doesn't fling much.
Motorex 622 strong -goes on like an ultra sticky white grease like what's on a new chain. Over application will fling
Dupont teflon-current fav, a dry teflon lube so chain stays cleaner longer with very little fling.
I use kerosene to clean. I've never understood using WD40 to clean then apply a chain lube. How is the lube going to stick to an oily chain?
One of these day, I'll bite the bullet and get a $$$ scottoiler and not worry about it.
WD40- cheap and is really just a cleaner/light oil. I prefer to use it on long trips to conserve tankbag space.
Honda HP chain wax-goes on gray and doesn't fling much.
Motorex 622 strong -goes on like an ultra sticky white grease like what's on a new chain. Over application will fling
Dupont teflon-current fav, a dry teflon lube so chain stays cleaner longer with very little fling.
I use kerosene to clean. I've never understood using WD40 to clean then apply a chain lube. How is the lube going to stick to an oily chain?
One of these day, I'll bite the bullet and get a $$$ scottoiler and not worry about it.
+1 on the Scottoiler. Never clean your chain again and it'll last twice as long. My stocker lasted 25000 miles and I only changed it because the sprockets were getting a little worn, mostly the front one.
Hence the name: Water Displacement 40. Not sure what the "40" means.
Anyways, once applied and left to dry, the petrolum based carrier evaporates and the chain is left pretty clean and dry.
My chain lube sticks great, and my chain seems to be lasting a long time.
I really think most anything that does not break down the o-rings would work just fine.
I used to use chain wax, but now I like Silkolene Pro-Chain lube. This is a fully synthetic lube that leaves a non sticky clear film on the chain. Protects the chain but doesn't attract dirt.
i was using maxima chain wax forever, then i switched to motul chain wax. i'm liking the motul a lot better, but i'm still not 100% satisfied. even with a fairly light application i still get some black fling off... plus it's harder than he11 to get off the swing arm. i've yet to try the honda hp wax, but i hear it's great!
I've used a variety of spray lubes on other bikes in the past.
I have nearly 28,000 miles on the original chain on my Super Hawk. I have always used 80-90 wt. gear oil to lube my chain & it still has plenty of adjustment left in it. Page 90 of the Honda Owner's Manual says, "lubricate only with SAE 80 or 90 gear oil."
All i do is put on a rubber surgical glove and wipe the chain down. I apply a light coat with a rag every few hundred miles. I keep the oil soaked rag handy in a dish in the garage. The main thing is to just lightly coat the chain to prevent rust & corrosion.
It's cheap & easy. And it doesn't attract dirt and grit the way many spray-on lubes do, so i don't have a messy build-up to clean off everything.
Of course other lubes will protect your chain, but this works for me.
I have nearly 28,000 miles on the original chain on my Super Hawk. I have always used 80-90 wt. gear oil to lube my chain & it still has plenty of adjustment left in it. Page 90 of the Honda Owner's Manual says, "lubricate only with SAE 80 or 90 gear oil."
All i do is put on a rubber surgical glove and wipe the chain down. I apply a light coat with a rag every few hundred miles. I keep the oil soaked rag handy in a dish in the garage. The main thing is to just lightly coat the chain to prevent rust & corrosion.
It's cheap & easy. And it doesn't attract dirt and grit the way many spray-on lubes do, so i don't have a messy build-up to clean off everything.
Of course other lubes will protect your chain, but this works for me.
I used to use Maxima chainwax but whe I pulled apart the chain to replace it I found the pins had rusted and the chainwax was doing nothing. I now use Bel-ray superclean (teflon based) which is a much better product.
http://www.scottoiler.com/
After I used all my "Scottoil", I switched to a combination of Marvel Mystery oil and SAE30 cheap stuff, to approximate the consistency of the Scott oil. It's worked fine for many years and I have the thing adjusted to 1 drop/minute. I have to refill every 300 miles or so. Fling off is minimal and will occur mostly on the wheel and a few specks on the tail fairing. But it's so light that it wipes off with a rag. The system basically self-cleans the chain whenever you're riding. You can turn up the flow when in dusty or wet conditions, though I never do.
+1 on the gear oil. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and I apply it with a tooth brush with the bike on a stand and wipe off any excess. A bottle of gear oil lasts 3 to 4 years and my chains always go at least 25,000 miles. The fling wipes away with little effort and my chain always looks clean.
I used to use BelRay Super Clean for years. Went on light grey in color and absolutely would not fling off. About a year or so ago I tried a can of the new formula Honda HP4 with Teflon (could very well be a relabeled can of Dupont Teflon lube) and I'm very satisfied with it's performance. Goes on so clear that I've resorted to putting a mark on a sideplate so I don't overlubricate the chain while I spin the wheel and apply. Doesn't fling either. I clean the chain with kero every 350 miles, dry, and apply the lube. I'm over the 28,000 mile mark on the '98 VTR, over 31,000 miles on my '97 Bandit 1200,and 24,000 miles on my '99 ZRX1100- all on original chains and spockets. No holeshots or stunts may also contribute to the longevity....
I used to use BelRay Super Clean for years. Went on light grey in color and absolutely would not fling off. About a year or so ago I tried a can of the new formula Honda HP4 with Teflon (could very well be a relabeled can of Dupont Teflon lube) and I'm very satisfied with it's performance. Goes on so clear that I've resorted to putting a mark on a sideplate so I don't overlubricate the chain while I spin the wheel and apply. Doesn't fling either. I clean the chain with kero every 350 miles, dry, and apply the lube. I'm over the 28,000 mile mark on the '98 VTR, over 31,000 miles on my '97 Bandit 1200,and 24,000 miles on my '99 ZRX1100- all on original chains and spockets. No holeshots or stunts may also contribute to the longevity....
That was using maxima chain wax applied after every ride.
I consider it next to useless.
I think I will try using gear oil as someone else said. You can get some very good light gear oils (SAE 75-80) designed for small manual transmission front wheel drive cars that may be the go, even maybe a synthetic.
The Bel Ray gets expensive after a while.
Works great, keeps the chain clean and doesn't cause a damn mess on the swingarma nd wheel.
YOu do not need oil or wax on the chain rollers, that is why they have o-rings and grease inside the roller. The roller hits the sprocket teeth and then the center of the chain pivots while the roller stays stationary in the sprocket teeth, thus the reasonm for grease inside the rollers.
Chain Lube
What about belts...kidding..I'm learning from all your experience. The pins are lubed in modern chains...but the rollers as mentioned actually need lubrication for wear, heat and noise...sounds like proper lubing may also prevent moisture from entering rollers..may also lubricate the o-rings/x-rings etc..keep them from deteroiating..from rust,crud or heat.. Of course the pressure placed on them by hard riding also plays it's part...cleaner and lubricant most be compatible with o-rings..etc..small front sprockets will accelerate wear, by making the chain make a tighter angle..more movement..Of course dropping the clutch..etc.. Most of you all seem to be into your bikes so chains are looked after..the nightmare of packed up chains ruined a lot of engine cases and caused some tragic crashes... Nuff said..thanks guys for your input..
Dave:-D
Dave:-D
So to sum up, there are several effective ways to lube your chain & get long wear w/o gumming it up.Since people have good results with it, think I'll get a small can of WD40 to carry on longer trips, where putting on the gear oil is impractical. Thanks for the tip.
Chain Lube
Hey guys..good input..WD 40..the wonder drug...I remember years ago in the days of air-cooling..it was Marvel Mystery Oil....Anyway..what I'm going to do is carry small can of WD 40..and then something for Lubricating maybe that Honda stuff..Anway thanks for all the "answers" to my question
Dave:-D
Dave:-D
+1, again on WD-40, it's all i've even used on my chain; 25,000 miles and the chain and sprockets are still in very good shape. Sold my buddy on it too, it is all he ever uses. Cheap, works, doesn't gunk up the chain and attract dirt to grind your o-rings down.
On the Scottoiler, do you recommend the the Universal or High Temperature Kit for Mississippi? Ambient temperature range is from 68-122 degree Farenheit for the high temp version. Daily averages for that area are a low of 31 for January and 91 for July. I know temps can reach about 100 F on hot days during summer months.
Regards,
Mike
Regards,
Mike
Aerostich has them.
http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/...r-p-16855.html
http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/...r-p-16855.html





